**The Jacket Draft - Chest 100 Men's Tailoring**

All jacket patterns for chest circumference 106 – 114 can be cut from a draft of chest 110 and need only change 2 cm per half-width, at the most. All the important measurements can be read from the pattern. The measurements of the chest width, armhole diameter, and the back width are understood as measured values. The individual ease allowances for the desired sizes can therefore be done very easily. We have, for example, the bust of 100 -

Bb 19 + 4 ½ ease

Ad 12 + 4 ½ ease

Rb 19 + 3 ease½ Ow 50 + 12 ease

These allowances are purely a matter of fashion and taste. They can be larger or smaller. Our basic draft is equivalent to the current fashion trend (1954). It has 12 cm ease in the chest, 9 ½ cm in the waist and 8 ½ cm in the seat. Every professional knows it is very difficult to work with fixed values is this area. The desired, fashionable silhouette or taste will always be decisive. The front has a relatively sloped shoulder and a dart is cut from the neck hole.

Diagram 36:

The Jacket Draft for Chest 100

Diagram 36

Our pattern sheet comprises three jacket patterns: Chest 100 — 110 — 120. From these three basic templates, one can produce all jacket patterns without new drafts and one need not alter the chest by more than 2 cm per half. The bust measurements of the templates are thus firstly smaller and on the other hand larger for example:

Chest

96 106 116

98 108 118

Basic Values

100 110 120 102 112 122

104 114 124

Please note, that there is no universal position for the shoulder that is correct for everyone. It is very important how one processes and what overall picture should be achieved. Because the current fashion is for smaller chest parts, the front shoulder is cut more diagonally. Those wanting a fuller front part, naturally require a straighter shoulder position. It is obvious that for some, the shoulder position in the draft is too slanted and for others it is too straight. The one must carry out a small correction to the draft. It is not very difficult to position the shoulder 1 or 1 ½ cm straighter. First, it is most important to find “One’s own shoulder position”. It is the same for the waist length and the shoulder width. Maybe one wishes for a slightly lower waist positioned and the other wants it slightly higher. Then again, one never knows what the fashion will be the tomorrow! And again, this must be corrected according to taste and opinion. When this is done, one has a pattern of “One’s own Taste” then one can create other patterns that also have the desired style

Changing the Jacket draft of chest 100 to Chest 104

Template Measurements for Chest 100 Measurements for Chest 104

176 — 88 176 — 88

100 — 50 104 — 52 + 2

90 — 45 94 — 47 + 2

108 — 54 112 — 56 + 2

From the basic jacket template for 100 cm chest measure a jacket pattern for a 104 chest should be developed. The first question is “What must be changed?” The necessary changes are seen when one compares both these measurement sets. The chest, waist and seat are each 2 cm larger per half width. We will deal with the chest first. The 104 cm chest should be developed from the 100 cm chest. We have therefore 4 cm more chest width and must note the following:

If the chest is 1 cm larger than 100 cm, then

the chest width (front part) is 2 ½ mm larger then

the armhole diameter is 1 ½ mm larger than

the back width is 1 mm larger

Fullness 5 mm per half = 1 cm total

When the chest is less than 100 cm the norm is a bit different, because the body is built a bit differently. To understand this better we have a table where one can look up or read these changes.

The Normal Chest Ratios with the Normal Figure for Men's Tailoring

Ow Bb mm Ad mm Bb mm

90 17 2 11 1 17 2

92 17.4 2 11.2 1 17.4 2

94 17.8 2 11.4 1 17.8 2

96 18.2 2 11.6 1 18.2 2

98 18.6 2 11.8 1 18.6 2

100 19 2 12 1 19 2

102 19.5 2.5 12.3 1.5 19.2 1

104 20 2.5 12.6 1.5 19.4 1

106 20.5 2.5 12.9 1.5 19.6 1

108 21 2.5 13.2 1.5 19.6 1

110 21.5 2.5 13.5 1.5 19.8 1

112 22 2.5 13.8 1.5 20.2 1

114 22.5 2.5 14.1 1.5 20.4 1

116 23 2.5 14.4 1.5 20.6 1

118 23.5 2.5 14.7 1.5 20.8 1

120 24 2.5 15 1.5 21 1

122 24.5 2.5 15.3 1.5 21.2 1

124 25 2.5 15.6 1.5 21.4 1

126 25.5 2.5 15.9 1.5 21.6 1

128 26 2.5 16.2 1.5 21.8 1

130 26.5 2.5 16.5 1.5 22 1

In our case, there must be the following changes: We have 4 cm extra in the chest. Therefore it is

the Bb 4 x 2,5 = 10 mm larger

the Ad 4 x 1,5 = 6 mm larger

the Rb 4 x 1 = 4 mm larger

Fullness 20 mm or 2 cm

The Back

Diagram 37

Now the Length Measurement must also be Increased.

Diagram 37

Draw out the basic pattern onto a sheet of paper. The back must get wider still and the back widening marked down. Now the length measurement must also be increased. The back height of the 104 chest must be longer. The following rule:

When the chest is 1 cm more or less than 100 cm, then the back height must be 1.25 mm larger or smaller.

Since we must have 4 cm more chest circ. We must add 4 times 1.25 mm = 5 mm to the height. The back height must be larger by this amount. One can argue, that the depth of the armhole must harmonise well with the body height. Indeed, the same chest size could be a completely different body height. In such a case the following rule applies:

If the half body height is 1 cm larger or smaller, then the Back height is 1.25 mm larger or smaller.

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All things considered, one can get the same result if one uses the back height from our proven proportional control. Short horizontal and vertical lines are drawn at the shoulder points that are to be altered. Then 5 mm is removed from the height. The neck-hole mirror must be enlarged. The normal amount is 1/10th of the half Ow + 3. With a 100 cm chest it was 8 cm and with 104 cm 8.2 cm. The neck-hole mirror must consequently be larger by 2 mm. This amount is placed to the left. Doing this, the shoulder gets narrower by 2mm. On the other hand, for larger bust sizes the shoulder width must be correspondingly increased. Here one says the following

As the chest width is increased or decreased by 1 cm,

so the shoulder is ½ mm wider or narrower.

In our case, only the chest width changes. We have 4 cm extra chest width and it follows that the shoulder is 2 mm wider. With the help of the jacket template, draw out each of - the shoulder, the neck ring, and the side seam of the back. Since the body height has not altered, the waist and jacket lengths must also be shortened, by the 5 mm employed above. Thus, the back is finished.

The Front- and Side Part

The front part must be widened in the chest width and waist width, passing forward by 1 cm. At the same time, the chest dart must be put forward by about ⅓ of this amount. The side seam is to be placed 6 mm to the right. The neck point and the shoulder height of the front pat are lifted 5 mm. That is the same amount that the back part was lengthened. Since the chest width and waist were pushed forward by the same measurement, the shoulder must be straightened by half this broadening. After the front part shoulder is widened by 2 mm, the shoulder, armhole, neck ring, and the front edge can be drawn out with help from the jacket template. Waist and jacket length must also be harmonised to the altered back pattern. Thus, the front part is finished. We have developed a normal pattern for a 104 cm chest from a normal pattern of the 100 cm chest.

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Alterations to the Sleeve

We require a sleeve fitted for the 104 cm chest from a sleeve draft for the100 cm chest. The armhole of the 104 cm jacket is naturally different. It has become a half cm higher and the armhole circumference has increased by 1.5 cm. This change must also be included in the sleeve. Any alteration of the armhole makes it necessary to alter the sleeve.

Diagram 38

Draw the basic sleeve on a sheet of paper. The sleeve cap has a mark in the middle. Mark this also. Then add to the cap the amount of the shoulder heightening in the front part, in this case ½ cm. Increase the back sleeve seams of the upper and lower sleeve at their top end by half of this amount. Through this lengthening of the sleeve cap, its circumference is larger. In general, it is expected that the sleeve circumference increases by the amount of the cap height increase. Here we have increased the height by ½ cm and thereby obtained ½ cm to the circumference. Since the armhole of the pattern is 1 ½ cm larger, the sleeve must also be larger by 1 ½ cm. The increase cap height already gives ½ cm. The remaining 1 cm, is obtained by adding it´s half to the upper and the lower sleeve. Transfer the middle sleeve top is by half of its widening. The upper and lower sleeve can be drawn out, with the help of the sleeve template.

Diagram 38 a

Here we see the sleeve drawn out. When drawing it up, the centres of the cap heights of the basic draft and the new sleeve draft must lie one on the other. Then one draws the cap from the middle to the front. After that, place the pattern on the back seam draw the rest of the cap to the cap centre. Everything else is shown in the diagram.

**The Alterations to the 100 cm Jacket Draft for a very large Waist (Corpulent).**

Maßsatz

176 — 88

100 — 50

96 — 48 + 3

106 — 53

To make it more understandable to begin with, we have left the height, chest, and seat the same. Only the waist is bigger. The draft has 90 cm waist and here is necessarily 96 cm. That is 6 cm more. Since all the drafts are cut to the half, it must be 3 cm bigger at the waist.

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This 3 cm is halved and 1 ½ cm added forward from the arm hole fall line and the rest added toward the back. The front waist-point must therefore be shifted forward 1 ½ cm. One could also say:

The jacket draft has 90 cm waist, ¼ of which is 22 ½ cm. Here we want 96 cm waist. ¼ of which is 24 cm. the waist must be larger by the difference between both these numbers.

Diagram 39

The cutting pattern must be produced with help from the jacket template. We lay the jacket draft on a piece of paper and mark out the control points necessary for the production of the pattern. On our diagram, these points are marked with a heavy line. It is best to punch out holes at the frequently recurring control points, to make it easier to mark out.

After the first process, the cutting pattern looks as this diagram shows. The side part seam of the front part is drawn out and the necessary points are connected.

Diagram 39 a

The alteration can begin. What we have is, the front waist point pushed forward 1 ½ cm and the chest dart gets shifted for 1/3 of this amount. Draw it out in a pronounced line, from the pocket down.

Now we place the jacket template onto the cutting diagram. It is essential that the waistline of the draft and that of the cutting diagram are lying one on the other. Ensure the shifted front waist point, Point C, is added. The diagram shows this process in dotted lines. Then mark the new drawn dart line, drawn down on the jacket draft. We have designated this point D1. Now the pattern lies on Point C, point D1 is marked on the hem. Now the draft lies on point C, the hem is marked at Point D1 and Point E is formed on the chest line. The distance between points A and point E is halved. Then the draft is held firmly at Point C and rotated to the point halfway between Point A—E. the front edge can now be marked out from Point C to Point D 1 and be connected with the side seam. Point D1 on the draft is defined at the bottom of the hem. As the pattern rotates this point also moves to the left. It is marked and we have designated it Point D2. At the same time, the front pocket height gets marked in. Thus two marks

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result at the bottom of the hem. The amount between these two points will be pinched off later and thereby place the belly dart in the pocket line.

As the belly protrusion increases, so the angle of the shoulder must become more diagonal/sloped. We have marked the normal shoulder position with a small cross. A line is drawn from this place to the waistline. It does not need to go square to the chest line. It is used to cross the chest-line and waistline. On the waistline, the intersection point is placed to the left by half the amount of the increase in the waist front part and is connected with the chest line intersection point by a straight line. This is how one finds the slope of the shoulder.

Diagram 39 b

The shoulder and the armhole are drawn out with the help of the front template. It is laid to the front side seam and secured at the Av point. Then the neck point of the pattern is laid on the diagonal of the shoulder line and the shoulder and the armhole marked out. When one has secured the template at point C and rotated the draft to point A, at the same time it is possible to mark out the front edge to the top buttonhole and also indicate the centre front. Point D2 is connected to the waist with the chest dart and then drawn tapering upwards.

This way one calculates the extra amount. Usually it is only pinched, phasing out to the pocket incision. 1 cm is removed from the chest dart at the pocket height. When the distance from the belly point to the dart is measured out and transferred to the bottom, then one has the exact centre front. Also, the lapel is marked out with help from the template. It is laid down matching the new neck point at the top and matching the top buttonhole at the bottom and marked out.

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Zeichnung 39 c

The front part is now 1 ½ cm larger at the centre front. But it lacks a total of 3 cm. The other l ½ cm is distributed to the seams of the front and back parts. The allocation is by thirds. Thus, the pattern receives 3 cm more width on the waistline. The chest and the waist remain in normal relationship. The pattern now has a belly dart and a more slanted shoulder area (aka crooked).