Der praktische Zuschnitt - Jacket Draft Chest 100 in English

[Schneiderfrei]

The following translation is taken from - Der Praktische Zuschnitt Heft IX seite 41

Der praktische Zuschnitt was a folio/pamphlet released by Rundschau - Mueller in the 1950's.  It was addressed to professional tailors in Germany.  I have collected 5 volumes and only one of these has any mention of Herrenschneiderei/Men's Tailors.  There is a lot about Women's Tailoring.  I have placed these folios on this forum before, but I have never had the time to do such a long article before.

This is the article, it concerns the production of several sizes of pattern from a single draft.  The draft could be bought from Mueller if desired and this is what the Zeichnung/diagram 36 represents.  This could be useful for alterations in the size of a particular gentleman or to make it easier to produce many patterns in a particular style, given a similar size/proportion.  In a way this is a logical way to explain the rudiments of grading. The article goes through the process of enlargement or reduction of a pattern from a draft, step by step.  In addition, there are a few extra conditions such as how to adjust for corpulence and hollow back.

I hope that it might be interesting and useful to read this material.

Thanks again to peterle for checking through my translation.

[Schneiderfrei]

The Jacket Draft - Chest 100         Men's Tailoring

All jacket patterns for chest circumference 106 – 114 can be cut from a draft of chest 110 and need only change 2 cm per half-width, at the most.  All the important measurements can be read from the pattern.  The measurements of the chest width, armhole diameter, and the back width are understood as measured values.  The individual ease allowances for the desired sizes can therefore be done very easily.  We have, for example, the bust of 100 -

     Bb    19 + 4 ½ ease
     Ad    12 + 4 ½ ease
     Rb    19 + 3     ease
½ Ow    50 + 12   ease

These allowances are purely a matter of fashion and taste.  They can be larger or smaller.  Our basic draft is equivalent to the current fashion trend (1954).  It has 12 cm ease in the chest, 9 ½ cm in the waist and 8 ½ cm in the seat.  Every professional knows it is very difficult to work with fixed values is this area.  The desired, fashionable silhouette or taste will always be decisive.  The front has a relatively sloped shoulder and a dart is cut from the neck hole.

Diagram 36:
The Jacket Draft for Chest 100

Diagram 36

Our pattern sheet comprises three jacket patterns: Chest 100 — 110 — 120.  From these three basic templates, one can produce all jacket patterns without new drafts and one need not alter the chest by more than 2 cm per half.  The bust measurements of the templates are thus firstly smaller and on the other hand larger for example:

Chest
                   96       106       116
                   98       108       118
Basic Values    100       110       120
                  102      112       122
                  104       114       124

Please note, that there is no universal position for the shoulder that is correct for everyone.  It is very important how one processes and what overall picture should be achieved.  Because the current fashion is for smaller chest parts, the front shoulder is cut more diagonally.  Those wanting a fuller front part, naturally require a straighter shoulder position.  It is obvious that for some, the shoulder position in the draft is too slanted and for others it is too straight.  The one must carry out a small correction to the draft.  It is not very difficult to position the shoulder 1 or 1 ½ cm straighter.  First, it is most important to find "One's own shoulder position".  It is the same for the waist length and the shoulder width.  Maybe one wishes for a slightly lower waist positioned and the other wants it slightly higher.  Then again, one never knows what the fashion will be the tomorrow!  And again, this must be corrected according to taste and opinion.  When this is done, one has a pattern of "One's own Taste" then one can create other patterns that also have the desired style

Changing the Jacket draft of chest 100 to Chest 104

Template Measurements for Chest 100   Measurements for Chest 104
       176 — 88                                                 176 — 88
       100 — 50                                                 104 — 52 + 2
         90 — 45                                                   94 — 47 + 2
       108 — 54                                                 112 — 56 + 2

From the basic jacket template for 100 cm chest measure a jacket pattern for a 104 chest should be developed.  The first question is "What must be changed?"  The necessary changes are seen when one compares both these measurement sets.  The chest, waist and seat are each 2 cm larger per half width.  We will deal with the chest first.  The 104 cm chest should be developed from the 100 cm chest.  We have therefore 4 cm more chest width and must note the following:

If the chest is 1 cm larger than 100 cm, then

the chest width (front part) is   2 ½  mm larger then
the armhole diameter is           1 ½  mm larger than
the back width is                      1 mm larger
Fullness                                    5 mm per half = 1 cm total

When the chest is less than 100 cm the norm is a bit different, because the body is built a bit differently.  To understand this better we have a table where one can look up or read these changes.

The Normal Chest Ratios with the Normal Figure for Men's Tailoring

Ow   Bb   mm   Ad   mm   Bb   mm
90   17   2   11   1   17   2
92   17.4   2   11.2   1   17.4   2
94   17.8   2   11.4   1   17.8   2
96   18.2   2   11.6   1   18.2   2
98   18.6   2   11.8   1   18.6   2
100   19   2   12   1   19   2
102   19.5   2.5   12.3   1.5   19.2   1
104   20   2.5   12.6   1.5   19.4   1
106   20.5   2.5   12.9   1.5   19.6   1
108   21   2.5   13.2   1.5   19.6   1
110   21.5   2.5   13.5   1.5   19.8   1
112   22   2.5   13.8   1.5   20.2   1
114   22.5   2.5   14.1   1.5   20.4   1
116   23   2.5   14.4   1.5   20.6   1
118   23.5   2.5   14.7   1.5   20.8   1
120   24   2.5   15   1.5   21   1
122   24.5   2.5   15.3   1.5   21.2   1
124   25   2.5   15.6   1.5   21.4   1
126   25.5   2.5   15.9   1.5   21.6   1
128   26   2.5   16.2   1.5   21.8   1
130   26.5   2.5   16.5   1.5   22   1

In our case, there must be the following changes: We have 4 cm extra in the chest. Therefore it is

the Bb 4 x 2,5 = 10 mm larger
the Ad 4 x 1,5 = 6 mm larger
the Rb 4 x 1    = 4 mm larger

Fullness             20 mm or 2 cm

The Back

Diagram 37

Now the Length Measurement must also be Increased.

Diagram 37

Draw out the basic pattern onto a sheet of paper.  The back must get wider still and the back widening marked down.  Now the length measurement must also be increased.  The back height of the 104 chest must be longer.  The following rule:

When the chest is 1 cm more or less than 100 cm, then the back height must be 1.25 mm larger or smaller.

Since we must have 4 cm more chest circ. We must add 4 times 1.25 mm = 5 mm to the height. The back height must be larger by this amount.  One can argue, that the depth of the armhole must harmonise well with the body height.  Indeed, the same chest size could be a completely different body height.  In such a case the following rule applies:

If the half body height is 1 cm larger or smaller, then the Back height is 1.25 mm larger or smaller.

42

All things considered, one can get the same result if one uses the back height from our proven proportional control.  Short horizontal and vertical lines are drawn at the shoulder points that are to be altered.  Then 5 mm is removed from the height.  The neck-hole mirror must be enlarged.  The normal amount is 1/10th of the half Ow + 3.  With a 100 cm chest it was 8 cm and with 104 cm 8.2 cm.  The neck-hole mirror must consequently be larger by 2 mm.  This amount is placed to the left.  Doing this, the shoulder gets narrower by 2mm.  On the other hand, for larger bust sizes the shoulder width must be correspondingly increased.  Here one says the following

As the chest width is increased or decreased by 1 cm,
so the shoulder is ½ mm wider or narrower.

In our case, only the chest width changes.  We have 4 cm extra chest width and it follows that the shoulder is 2 mm wider.  With the help of the jacket template, draw out each of - the shoulder, the neck ring, and the side seam of the back.  Since the body height has not altered, the waist and jacket lengths must also be shortened, by the 5 mm employed above.  Thus, the back is finished.

The Front- and Side Part

The front part must be widened in the chest width and waist width, passing forward by 1 cm.  At the same time, the chest dart must be put forward by about ⅓ of this amount.  The side seam is to be placed 6 mm to the right. The neck point and the shoulder height of the front pat are lifted 5 mm.  That is the same amount that the back part was lengthened.  Since the chest width and waist were pushed forward by the same measurement, the shoulder must be straightened by half this broadening.  After the front part shoulder is widened by 2 mm, the shoulder, armhole, neck ring, and the front edge can be drawn out with help from the jacket template.  Waist and jacket length must also be harmonised to the altered back pattern.  Thus, the front part is finished.  We have developed a normal pattern for a 104 cm chest from a normal pattern of the 100 cm chest.

43

Alterations to the Sleeve

We require a sleeve fitted for the 104 cm chest from a sleeve draft for the100 cm chest.  The armhole of the 104 cm jacket is naturally different.   It has become a half cm higher and the armhole circumference has increased by 1.5 cm.  This change must also be included in the sleeve.  Any alteration of the armhole makes it necessary to alter the sleeve.

Diagram 38

Draw the basic sleeve on a sheet of paper.  The sleeve cap has a mark in the middle.  Mark this also.  Then add to the cap the amount of the shoulder heightening in the front part, in this case ½ cm.  Increase the back sleeve seams of the upper and lower sleeve at their top end by half of this amount.  Through this lengthening of the sleeve cap, its circumference is larger.  In general, it is expected that the sleeve circumference increases by the amount of the cap height increase.  Here we have increased the height by ½ cm and thereby obtained ½ cm to the circumference.  Since the armhole of the pattern is 1 ½ cm larger, the sleeve must also be larger by 1 ½ cm.  The increase cap height already gives ½ cm.  The remaining 1 cm, is obtained by adding it´s half to the upper and the lower sleeve.  Transfer the middle sleeve top is by half of its widening.  The upper and lower sleeve can be drawn out, with the help of the sleeve template. 

Diagram 38 a

Here we see the sleeve drawn out.  When drawing it up, the centres of the cap heights of the basic draft and the new sleeve draft must lie one on the other.  Then one draws the cap from the middle to the front.  After that, place the pattern on the back seam draw the rest of the cap to the cap centre. Everything else is shown in the diagram.

The Alterations to the 100 cm Jacket Draft for a very large Waist (Corpulent).

Maßsatz
176 — 88
100 — 50
96  — 48 + 3
106 — 53


To make it more understandable to begin with, we have left the height, chest, and seat the same.  Only the waist is bigger.  The draft has 90 cm waist and here is necessarily 96 cm.  That is 6 cm more.  Since all the drafts are cut to the half, it must be 3 cm bigger at the waist.

44

This 3 cm is halved and 1 ½ cm added forward from the arm hole fall line and the rest added toward the back.  The front waist-point must therefore be shifted forward 1 ½ cm.  One could also say:

The jacket draft has 90 cm waist, ¼ of which is 22 ½ cm.  Here we want 96 cm waist. ¼ of which is 24 cm. the waist must be larger by the difference between both these numbers.

Diagram 39

The cutting pattern must be produced with help from the jacket template.  We lay the jacket draft on a piece of paper and mark out the control points necessary for the production of the pattern.  On our diagram, these points are marked with a heavy line.  It is best to punch out holes at the frequently recurring control points, to make it easier to mark out.

After the first process, the cutting pattern looks as this diagram shows.  The side part seam of the front part is drawn out and the necessary points are connected. 

Diagram 39 a

The alteration can begin.  What we have is, the front waist point pushed forward 1 ½ cm and the chest dart gets shifted for 1/3 of this amount.  Draw it out in a pronounced line, from the pocket down.

Now we place the jacket template onto the cutting diagram.  It is essential that the waistline of the draft and that of the cutting diagram are lying one on the other.  Ensure the shifted front waist point, Point C, is added.  The diagram shows this process in dotted lines.  Then mark the new drawn dart line, drawn down on the jacket draft.  We have designated this point D1.  Now the pattern lies on Point C, point D1 is marked on the hem.  Now the draft lies on point C, the hem is marked at Point D1 and Point E is formed on the chest line.  The distance between points A and point E is halved.  Then the draft is held firmly at Point C and rotated to the point halfway between Point A—E.  the front edge can now be marked out from Point C to Point D 1 and be connected with the side seam.  Point D1 on the draft is defined at the bottom of the hem. As the pattern rotates this point also moves to the left.  It is marked and we have designated it Point D2.  At the same time, the front pocket height gets marked in.  Thus two marks

45

result at the bottom of the hem.  The amount between these two points will be pinched off later and thereby place the belly dart in the pocket line.

As the belly protrusion increases, so the angle of the shoulder must become more diagonal/sloped.  We have marked the normal shoulder position with a small cross.  A line is drawn from this place to the waistline.  It does not need to go square to the chest line.  It is used to cross the chest-line and waistline.  On the waistline, the intersection point is placed to the left by half the amount of the increase in the waist front part and is connected with the chest line intersection point by a straight line.  This is how one finds the slope of the shoulder.

Diagram 39 b

The shoulder and the armhole are drawn out with the help of the front template.  It is laid to the front side seam and secured at the Av point.  Then the neck point of the pattern is laid on the diagonal of the shoulder line and the shoulder and the armhole marked out.  When one has secured the template at point C and rotated the draft to point A, at the same time it is possible to mark out the front edge to the top buttonhole and also indicate the centre front.  Point D2 is connected to the waist with the chest dart and then drawn tapering upwards.

This way one calculates the extra amount.  Usually it is only pinched, phasing out to the pocket incision.  1 cm is removed from the chest dart at the pocket height.  When the distance from the belly point to the dart is measured out and transferred to the bottom, then one has the exact centre front. Also, the lapel is marked out with help from the template.  It is laid down matching the new neck point at the top and matching the top buttonhole at the bottom and marked out.
.

Zeichnung 39 c

The front part is now 1 ½ cm larger at the centre front.  But it lacks a total of 3 cm.  The other l ½ cm is distributed to the seams of the front and back parts.  The allocation is by thirds.  Thus, the pattern receives 3 cm more width on the waistline.  The chest and the waist remain in normal relationship.  The pattern now has a belly dart and a more slanted shoulder area (aka crooked).

[Schneiderfrei]

The Development of a Jacket Draft with Extra-large Chest, Very Large Waist and Seat.

Measurements for the 110 cm Chest, Jacket Template

176 — 88
110 — 55
100 — 50
118   59

Measurements for the Corpulent figure Chest 114 cm

180 — 90 + 2
114 — 57 + 2
116 — 58 + 8.
122 — 61+2

As the measurements show, the pattern should be 2 cm wider in the half chest, 8 cm wider in the half waist and 2 cm wider in the half seat.  The Jacket template (110 Chest) is laid out on a sheet of paper and the necessary points drawn out.

Zeichnung 40

The chest circumference should be 4 cm wider.  The front chest width must therefore be widened 4 x 2.5 = 10 mm. The center front at the chest line is pushed forward by this amount.  The waist must of 8 cm wider per pattern half.  The front waist width is pushed forward by half of this amount 4 cm and at the same time the chest dart is moved forward ⅓ of this amount.

A line is drawn from the marked neck point to the waistline.  It is then pushed forward by half the front waist width allowance – 2 cm.  Also, its intersection with the chest line is transferred ½ cm.  It is thus shifted, on the chest line by half the amount of the chest alteration and on the waist line by half the amount of the waist alteration.  When both these alteration checkpoints are connected, one has found the correct shoulder position for this pattern.  For the size of the belly dart the relationship of the chest width to the waist front part is essential.  The chest width is here 1 cm and the waist front part is become 4 cm fuller.  Thus, here the belly point protrudes 3 cm over the chest point.  Half of this, 1 ½ cm is marked onto the chest line in front of the chest point.

47

Zeichnung 41

The pattern can be marked out with help from the template.  The template is laid on top of the pattern on the waistline.  The template must touch Point A.  Now, the chest dart of the pattern, D1, is marked on the hem of the template. Then the template is held firmly at Point A, rotated to Point C and the front edge marked out from Point A to Point D1.  Thus, also Point D1 of the template moves forward.  This gets marked at the pattern and we have obtained Point D2.  The front pocket line is also marked in.  The draft is now held firmly at Point A rotated to Point B and the front edge is drawn out till the top buttonhole.

Point D2 is connected with the chest dart at the waistline and drawn in accordingly above (the waistline). When marking the hem line of the front, a bit is added also at the side seam for compensation.  The shoulder part and the lapel are drawn out as shown in the previous diagram.

Zeichnung 42

The side body and the back are marked out.  The waistline must be 8 cm larger.  The front waist portion has become 4 cm wider and the remaining 4 cm are distributed to the seams.  The back and side body receive a third each and the remaining third is added to the front side seam.  In addition, the seat must be 2 cm fuller.  By widening the chest the front part also has become 1 cm wider at the bottom, the same also in the seat. On the Chest line, one gives the side body 4 x 1 ½ = 6 cm and widens the back by 4 x 1 = 4 mm.  These points are marked out.  The drawing up happens at the end.  Now the lengths must be altered.  We have an extra 4 cm in the chest width and consequently the back height must be 4 x 1 ¼ = 5mm longer.  Also, we have half of 2 cm more body height per half.  That's 2 x 1 ¼ = 2 ½ mm. Thus the armhole depth (= Rückenhöhe) must be elongated for 7,5mm.  This amount is given to the back and the front parts.  The neck mirror of the back is widened 2 mm and the shoulder can be drawn out.  The shoulder width is measured and corrected.  It must be 3 mm wider than the template shoulder.  Then one lies the draft so that the widened shoulder and the widened back meet at the waist.  This seam line is marked out and thereby the back is a bit wider at the chest width line than the 4 mm.  For such a large figure this is without question, more tasteful.  One, advisedly, draws the side body, shoulder and lapel with the assistance of the template.  Here, we are dealing with a body height of 180 cm. the waist length is thus 46 cm and the jacket length is 78 ¾ cm long.

Since there is already ¾ cm allowance present, the waist length and jacket length are corrected for the remaining amounts.  Now the pattern can be cut out and the extra from the pocket incision to the hem can be pinched off.  All alterations that are necessary due to physical shortcomings must now be additionally made. E.g. erect posture, stooped posture, round back, prominent shoulder blades, hollow back, high belly, dropped shoulders, etc.  Nothing differs here from the previous method.

The Alteration for a belly pushed forward
(Hollow Back) and seat drawn in 3 cm

This alteration is extremely common in men's tailoring.  The measurements may be completely normal and yet the jacket must be altered if this posture is present.  For the sake of clarity, we have implied the normal cut in light lines and the alterations in lines of extra thickness.

Diagram 43

The back draft is marked out.  Then the back pattern is held firmly at the shoulder point and rotated forward 1 ½ cm at the seat line – half of the amount of the drawn in seat.  The back is marked out such that the neck ring and shoulder remain in their normal positions.  The back pattern also pushes forward at the waist.  The center front waist point and the waist dart move forward by this amount.  Thus, the front part has become 1 cm too wide in the waistline.  This 1 cm is removed from the side seam from the waist-line downwards.  The side dart should lie as far forward as possible at the waistline.  This makes the waist look good.  Therefore, it is put forward by 1 cm.  Marking out the front edge and the transfer of the shoulder is described in the preceding diagrams.  We request you read them there.

[posaune]

What a work. Very well done, Schneiderfrei.
it was in these day, where the tailor had a few pattern which worked well, were balanced and tested. To cut a coat  he just took his proofed pattern, rotated and shove it here and there - it was a matter of time saving.  The pattern was drawn with chalk on the fabric. This patterns were called "Herrgöttle". (means: Mr. little God  -- this is a word  for word translation). And if the atelier would burn down the first thing to save were the patterns - not the family :-))
lg
posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Thank you posaune,

That is a great reference about the "Herrgottle".  I remember reading this term before.

The translation was difficult, mostly because it was quite repetitive (schrecklich mühsam).  But, I could see that it was telling a great story about how the patterns work.

I would recommend anyone working through the process as it is described.

Peterle says that the draft described in Diagram 36 was actually available to be purchased from Mueller and sons.  I would expect that many workshops would not have purchased them but produced their own.

G

[posaune]

you can do this till today
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein/schnittmuster-slim-fit-sakkogrundschnitt/
(not every good tailor is (was) a good cutter)
and here something without to pay
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/schlips-und-co/ :-)
lg
posaune
It is a long time ago I went to their page. You look at
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/allgemein
there are 23 pages full of interesting stuff if you like that

[Greger]

Thanks Schneiderfrei. That is a lot of work.
Thanks Peterle.

[pfaff260]

What a lot of work! Thank you.

[TTailor]

Thank you so much for all this work.
Looking forward to reading it through more closely.

[spookietoo]

Thank you Schneiderfrei for posting all of this information. I have reached the conclusion that my various fitting issues deviate so far from the "norm' that I need to study all of these issues to decide what needs to apply as accommodations for excessively full chests on women (along with the "plus size" descriptor). These problems do not seem to be very well defined in tailoring circles. This is most likely due to the overwhelming variety of issues that arise as a result of the various problems.

Basically, every little bit helps.

Thank you!

[posaune]

Well , Spookietoo, it is so, that one figure problems seldom comes alone. They have shown here how to act for more then one problem, which is very common.
My example: I'm overweight, I have a spondylosis at the back, right hanging side lowered 2 cm (compared to the left), bend very forward.  #
You see there is much what I must consider to alter in my pattern.  Because of the bending forward my CF is realtively short compared to the CB. _ Means look to the balance_. Check if the circs are right. Proceed to the lengths. And very difficult is the fit for the space inside the pattern for the body. The key is:  slowly doing the alterations- one after the other and redo it if it was not the right way. And do it exact and with patience. And never do it alone!
My last grain of wisedom found out for me (we try to develop a more Custom tailored friendly system - that means for us sewing many muslins): my forward bent body (and neck )needs a deeper back neck as normal. In a normal draft I go up for back neck hole about 2 cm. But I need 3. Otherwise the balance is not good. (My shoulder angle is 24° - normally it is about 21°)
These translated articles from Schneiderfrei show how to use a draft for bodies whose are not  "proportional" - using a proportional draft. And you know when there is a difference between theoretical and measured you know you have a problem and in which direction you must look.
lg posaune

[Schneiderfrei]

Ha ha, I have just realised that I misinterpreted one of peterle's comments.  He also said that you could still get the templates "til today". I thought he meant that "until recently" you could get them.  But your use of til is inclusive. He he.

G

[Schneiderfrei]

I would recommend this, with any of my translations:

Copy the text into a word document.  Anything that looks like a table probably was in my original. So you can put it back in a table.  Then download the images, copy the jpg files and paste them into the word document in the same place as the they are in the forum. You can alter the size so that the images are more clear.

then you have a nice little copy of the article for your own private study.  You could print it off, as I have done and have a great little reference.