Author Topic: Trousers Ironwork - ABC des Schneiderhandwerk - simple long trousers extract  (Read 8285 times)

Schneiderfrei

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My Chinese - Mandrin extends only to saying my name and saying thankyou. ;(

I will leave the translation in English then.  I have put together a little glossary, and there are explanations in the text. Any problems post a question.

G

mysewingpleasure

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Schneiderfrei,
Thank you for your patience with me.
I will print them out and do practice with the cut pieces in my hands, I will figure it out , I am sure. I do this to lady's pants as I was taught, except, I do not know properly where to "shrink"  and where to "scratch" now I can follow the pictures.
A sewing mom

Greger

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Shrink is to make smaller using water and heat (with natural fiber cloth).
Stretch is to make larger using water and and heat (with natural fiber cloth).
A heavy hot iron is used to encourage the shrinking or stretching.

JM MacLachlan

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Also, always stretch/ shrink a little more than you think you need. as the fibres relax there will be some shape lost

JM MacLachlan

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I wou;d love to see the whole series of the ABC des Schneiderhandwerk translated. it seems a good little resource to have.

mysewingpleasure

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Hi, everyone, I went to Cutter and Tailor forum tonight and what I found out Kiem provided a link to  a Japanese tailor video showing the iron work. That is a brilliant one, he shows how to iron every part of the pants. I chased to Twitter, and search, I found there are 3 videos. He did it so beautifully, and it is so so helpful I cannot wait to bring it over here and share with you.

https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS/status/867362934011432964
https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS/status/867342243228778496
https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS/status/867337486955151360


Can I ask a question? I would like to know that if it is exactly how the ABC des Schneiderhandwerk pictures showed, same method or not ? What and where are the differences?



A sewing mom

Schneiderfrei

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Thank you mysewingpleasure, for sharing those links here.

posaune

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well, I think he is handles the fabric barbarous (The fabric should be moist not dripping wet). And I can't catch any plan or dircection right in this video.  The only agreement that the ABC and this tailor have in common is that he uses the bias for dress.
lg
posaune
 

mysewingpleasure

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Posaune, thank you for your pointing out the difference between the two.

 I have read very carefully the translation a few times, but I don't feel confident to say I know how to do it. However, the videos are of great help. I agree with you that he had put too much water, as the book has mentioned.

I wonder in this "modern" days, the world demands fast food, fast process, fast results, ready-to-wear are everywhere, cheap or expensive, online markets make the fashion industry so "cheap" and " trend-y", will young people (age between 20 - 35) knows how the art of tailoring (as this part of ironing and shaping) means to a pair pants, the labor and effort from a tailor.

My son knows exactly how a garment, especially male's garment should use the high-end clothes, he chooses only fine wool, rayon, cotton, bemberg and linen, never the "unknown" fabric.

The end result is that the cost of the garment is as least triple, which most of the young people cannot afford. How a tailor can survive? especially the young generation who are interested in jumping into the men's fashion industry?
A sewing mom

Herrick Postman

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Merry Christmas!
Enjoy my Christmas day reading through some old posts and soaking up tailoring knowledge. Just reading through the original post but hard to follow without the images as they are blurred.
Any chance of fixing the images?

Thanks! :)
Parker

Schneiderfrei

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Oh drat, Thanks for pointing this out Herrick Postman.

Give me a little time and I will remedy the situation.

mysewingpleasure

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Herrick, nice to have you here, you reminded me that I was once at your stage, this site has tons of treasures that as a sewer, a fashion designer and of course a tailor would love to dig into every piece of the earth to find pieces of gold.

I always wish that I can read German, so that I can grasp more...

A sewing mom

mysewingpleasure

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Schneiderfrei, you've  a task!

We have a Bon Appetite to swallow more, please!

The more you bring back the feast from the old site, the more eaters will be satisfied! You will soon feed thousands.
A sewing mom

Schneiderfrei

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Mysewing pleasure, which articles were you referring to? Especially.

G

mysewingpleasure

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Hello to everyone, I have been back to this forum for so long that I missed so many fantastic conversationssssssssssssssssss.
I have been relaxing after a long time sewing for my son, that I have a break after last October. wooow, it was a nice long break.

Schneiderfrei, I love to have every subject back from the old Cutter And Tailor, hahaha.
Be serious now, I would love to see all the translated German patterns, especially those for different type of figures, oops, I cannot recall the special vocabulary, but I think you know what I mean... I am interested in learning how to draft patterns.
Please bring back those treasure as much as you can. Thanks so much.
A sewing mom