Author Topic: Trousers Ironwork - ABC des Schneiderhandwerk - simple long trousers extract  (Read 5943 times)

Schneiderfrei

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My Chinese - Mandrin extends only to saying my name and saying thankyou. ;(

I will leave the translation in English then.  I have put together a little glossary, and there are explanations in the text. Any problems post a question.

G

mysewingpleasure

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Schneiderfrei,
Thank you for your patience with me.
I will print them out and do practice with the cut pieces in my hands, I will figure it out , I am sure. I do this to lady's pants as I was taught, except, I do not know properly where to "shrink"  and where to "scratch" now I can follow the pictures.
A sewing mom

Greger

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Shrink is to make smaller using water and heat (with natural fiber cloth).
Stretch is to make larger using water and and heat (with natural fiber cloth).
A heavy hot iron is used to encourage the shrinking or stretching.

JM MacLachlan

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Also, always stretch/ shrink a little more than you think you need. as the fibres relax there will be some shape lost

JM MacLachlan

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I wou;d love to see the whole series of the ABC des Schneiderhandwerk translated. it seems a good little resource to have.

mysewingpleasure

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Hi, everyone, I went to Cutter and Tailor forum tonight and what I found out Kiem provided a link to  a Japanese tailor video showing the iron work. That is a brilliant one, he shows how to iron every part of the pants. I chased to Twitter, and search, I found there are 3 videos. He did it so beautifully, and it is so so helpful I cannot wait to bring it over here and share with you.

https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS/status/867362934011432964
https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS/status/867342243228778496
https://twitter.com/KENJIROPARIS/status/867337486955151360


Can I ask a question? I would like to know that if it is exactly how the ABC des Schneiderhandwerk pictures showed, same method or not ? What and where are the differences?



A sewing mom

Schneiderfrei

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Thank you mysewingpleasure, for sharing those links here.

posaune

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well, I think he is handles the fabric barbarous (The fabric should be moist not dripping wet). And I can't catch any plan or dircection right in this video.  The only agreement that the ABC and this tailor have in common is that he uses the bias for dress.
lg
posaune
 

mysewingpleasure

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Posaune, thank you for your pointing out the difference between the two.

 I have read very carefully the translation a few times, but I don't feel confident to say I know how to do it. However, the videos are of great help. I agree with you that he had put too much water, as the book has mentioned.

I wonder in this "modern" days, the world demands fast food, fast process, fast results, ready-to-wear are everywhere, cheap or expensive, online markets make the fashion industry so "cheap" and " trend-y", will young people (age between 20 - 35) knows how the art of tailoring (as this part of ironing and shaping) means to a pair pants, the labor and effort from a tailor.

My son knows exactly how a garment, especially male's garment should use the high-end clothes, he chooses only fine wool, rayon, cotton, bemberg and linen, never the "unknown" fabric.

The end result is that the cost of the garment is as least triple, which most of the young people cannot afford. How a tailor can survive? especially the young generation who are interested in jumping into the men's fashion industry?
A sewing mom