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91
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Women's trouser drafts
« Last post by hutch-- on April 08, 2019, 04:11:45 PM »
What I have found with practice for the leg openings for shorts is a double fold, turn the hem under once, pin it carefully so its the same width all around, run a line of straight stitch to hold it in place then turn it again using the top edge of the first fold as a guide then face stitch it by whatever design you like to make the final leg edging. This ends up very strong but with a bit of give on the edge so they don't cut into your legs. With the basic pattern you must lengthen the legs by twice the amount of the hem width and keep in mind with the shape of the lower leg opening that it must fold twice.
92
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Professional development?
« Last post by supercilious on April 08, 2019, 03:04:29 PM »
Although I am no professional, I've found that young women really love to be involved with people aspiring to make clothes. I'm not the greatest looking guy in the world either haha.
I would say as long as your earnest and even just meet a handful of people you're already in luck, McQueen used to make clothes for his aunts. As I'm learning too, I normally have no problems giving away clothes in order to keep working with people...

Also, part of me thinks that half of learning to become a good clothes maker involves understanding people and realizing that what matters isn't the clothes, but the people who wear them...



93
The Apprentice's Forum / Professional development?
« Last post by Futura on April 08, 2019, 01:38:03 PM »
(This might be an odd question, so please bear with me! ;D )

Where would an aspiring individual source willing people to use for practice drafting and fitting garments on? I would eventually like to make bespoke women's casual clothing, but I know I need much more experience fitting other bodies, amongst further practice.

I moved about a year ago, and now I don't really know anyone in the area aside from a few family members. (I'm also terrible at socializing!) How do professionals gain experience with this independently, outside of any formal training or apprenticeships? Should there be any compensation involved for the cost of time and materials? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. :)
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Women's trouser drafts
« Last post by Futura on April 08, 2019, 01:10:08 PM »
Thank you for the clear description, Posaune. :) I think on this first pair of shorts, I may finish the raw edge of the hem with a mock overlock stitch and then attempt a single fold upwards. It is a 10 oz brushed cotton bull denim, but I'm not yet sure how well it will respond to stretching.

Good point Hutch, the fabric will definitely dictate what hem I can use. I have some nicer quality 7 oz polyester/cotton twill I might use for another. Those will likely need a separate facing, as the fabric has no give to it.

The book I'm currently using says to use "non bias tape" to stabilize the curved opening of Western style pants pockets (and also along the top of a faced waistband). What kind of tape would be most appropriate without adding any bulk? My first thought was thin cotton twill tape, but the local fashion fabric store only carries polyester twill tape. I'm not sure if that will even adapt to a curved pocket opening...! Rayon seam binding seems too flimsy for shorts and pants intended for washable everyday wear.

Their instructions for a straight waistband call for a single layer of the outer fabric, with a lining and interfacing or grosgrain. What kind of lining fabric could be used for a durable finish? Could the same material also double as lining for the fly shield? The least offensive looking fabric I found was 100% cotton plain weave shirting. I don't know how well this will hold up to regular wear, though.
95
Costumers Forum / Re: Creating a body padding
« Last post by TTailor on April 08, 2019, 06:18:51 AM »
I think it is taking shape. Thanks, and it is a bit creepy i agree.
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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Paola on April 08, 2019, 03:54:21 AM »
Hi! I love tailoring and traditional techniques. So I think this forum might be a wonderful place to interact. I am an apprentice (not at very beggining but stil learning). Thank you for the forum, for the opportunity to change experiences.
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Costumers Forum / Re: Creating a body padding
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on April 08, 2019, 12:34:43 AM »
Its a silhouette anyone would be proud to have!
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: looking for a draft of a slim coat (man)
« Last post by posaune on April 08, 2019, 12:25:36 AM »
Thanks Pfaff very interesting. Thank your for sharing.
lg
posaune
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Costumers Forum / Re: Creating a body padding
« Last post by posaune on April 07, 2019, 11:57:22 PM »
Terri, it gives me the creeps. Reminds me of my last hoilday at the beach. Very natural!
lg
posaune
100
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Professional waistband of a men`s pants.
« Last post by theresa in tucson on April 07, 2019, 11:22:38 PM »
My Sewing Pleasure, try Pam Erny at Fashion Sewing Supply.  She's in new York and sells three different weights of shirt interfacing from very, very stiff to soft and supple.  I have used her interfacing for shirts and have been pleased.
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