Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

% = minus
Halsspiegel = neck mirror = the neck measurement (which is mirrored to the other side).
Armlochdurchmesser = A'durchmesser = armhole diameter = armhole width = distance between D and At
Winkellinie = square = draw a right angle (‘square’ is a verb)
Abbildung = Diagram

I have left the initials for the specific measurements as the German ones and given their English meanings.  This is because I have not altered the diagram to be English (sorry - too much work).

I like this draft very much, because it properly explains the shift in fashion points from the older bulky style of the 1950's into the slimmer 1960's.  Each change is not only listed but the following text reminds you where the change is occuring as you perform the draft.

The translation is presented once again as for Private Study Only.

I would encourage anyone interested in this art to check Mueller's current publication list.


 They are still of excellent quality.

Thanks again for Peterle in checking over my translation.

More to follow.


_____________________________




The Main Body Measurements

Kg Total Height                 176 cm
Ow Chest Circumference    100 cm
Tw Waist Circumference     90 cm
Ow Seat Circumference       106 cm

The Proportional Measurements („Müller"- Ready Reckoner or Calculations Page 11):

Hs Neck Mirror = 8 = 1/10 Ow + 3 cm
Rh Back Height = 23.5 = 1/16 Kg + 1/8 Ow (without Ease allowance)
Tl Waist Length = 44 = ¼ Kg (without Ease allowance)
Lg Jacket Length = 77.5 = ½ Kg % c. 10.5 cm
Rb Back Width = 20.5 = until 100 cm 2/10 Ow + 0.5 cm
         Over 100cm 1/10) Ow 10.5 cm
At Armhole Depth = 26 cm = Back Height + 2.5 cm Ease Allowance
Ad Armhole width (Diameter) = 16.5 cm = 1/8 Chest Circumference + 4 cm Ease Allowance
B Chest Width = 23 cm = 2/10 Chest Circumference + 3 cm Ease allowance
U Belly Width = 23.5 cm = ¼ Waist Circumference + 1 cm Ease allowance






A reliable cutting system for men’s or women’s wardrobe fulfils its significance and purpose, if all fashionable styles and variations can be developed from it on a consistent and proven basis. For decades Müller- München has determined to create it´s cutting system in a way that easily allows accommodation for changes in fashion and body shape, as Men’s fashion does not change suddenly; the following are the current developments in the evolution of style:

1. The pieces are somewhat slimmer,
2.  A noticeable waist effect is present.
3. It is enhanced by a looser hemline.
4. The Waist and the button closure some a bit higher.
5. The side pockets shift slightly upwards.
6. The Shoulder Width is smaller.
7. The Armhole seam runs straighter.
8. The Armhole area is more sophisticated.
9. The transition to the Sleeve is more accented.
10. The Jacket Length is somewhat increased.
11. The Collar begins to rise earlier at the side.
12. A full sleeve part completes the silhouette.
13. The longer back is accented by longer side-vents.
14. The armhole lies relatively higher.

The changing fashion details are observed in the cutting stage and while processing. In the cutting stage it means:

a) The Waist length is a little shorter and
b) The Jacket length is calculated a bit larger.
c) The Back Width and
d) The Chest Width is a little smaller,
e) The armhole is higher.

The Back - Abbildung 203

W/b/L   Vertical base-line
W-h      Neck mirror = 8 cm
h-H   =  Square up 2 ¼ cm
W-H     Draw out the neck-hole
W-m  =  ½ Back Height
W-Rh    Back Height = 23.5 cm
The Armhole is cut higher

W-T    Waist Length = 44 cm
The waist runs ½ cm higher, as well as the closing button
W-L Jacket Length = 77.5 cm
The Jacket is cut, on average, ½ cm longer

T-G   The Seat depth = ⅛ Kg.
Square out Rh, T, G, L
G-G1   Adjustment = 4 cm
G1-m     Form a guide-line at t
t-T1     Fitting - Waist suppression = 1 cm
T1-G1   Centre seam downwards
T1/m/w Centre seam upward
R-Rb     Back Width = 20.5 cm
The Back width can be kept ½ cm slimmer  This will reduce the easing fabric that accumulates towards the armhole (aka. Rollweiter - Drape).
.
Rb- Square up (vertically) to b [not marked in this draft].
b-a1 Shoulder height = 2 - 1.5 cm
H-a1 draw a guide-line
al-a2 Shoulder width = 2.5 cm
The Shoulder width must be somewhat smaller, so that the sleeve seams run straighter

H-a2 Draw out the shoulder seam
Rb-s ¼ Back Height
s- Square out (draw a right angle)
G1-g Seat width - R-Rb % (minus) 2 cm

78

The waist effect is supported by a looser hem. Therefore the back can be left ½ to1 cm wider in this area. This extension is added additionally. With side vents it is absolutely necessary.

a2-g Draw a guide-line, use it to form S and t1.
t1-T2 Waist suppression = ca. 1 ¾ cm
T2-G2 Side seam downwards with a 1 cm extension at G2
T2-S Draw a dashed line for normal side seam, form r
r-r1 Shift seam = 1cm
T2-r1 Shifted side seam
a2-S Armhole as it runs [schußmäßig]
S1 = Set the seam width ¾ cm inwards, draw out the armhole.
L1-L2 Hem line on the square

The Single Breasted Front Part - Abb. 204

Ad-G3 Draw a baseline
Ad-At Armhole depth = 26 cm
At-H Side height from the back
H-G3 Seat depth from back
At-     Square the Chest Line
H-     Waist Line on the square
G3-   Square the seat line
H-h   For the slanting line = 1 cm
h-At   Square from this line to get line for D
At-B   Chest Width = 23 cm

The chest width is a little smaller, we have taken 2/10 Ow + 3 cm.

H-U     Belly Width = 23.5 cm
c-      = The half point of At-B
f-       = The half point of H-U
e-e1   = Move back ½ cm
f/e1  Guideline for the neck point
f/e1  Apply a tailor’s square along this line, meeting up with Ad, draw a horizontal guideline forward, form H1. 
H1-H2 = Neck mirror = 8 cm
H2- Draw a square
H2-H3 = Neck mirror + 2 cm
H1-H3 Draw the neck hole shape
H3/B/U Draw the centre front
U- Square down
Ad-A1 Shoulder height = 4.5 cm
H1-A1 Draw a guide line
H1-A2 Width from the back % (minus) 1 cm
At-c Guide point = ca. 6 cm, guide line to A2
At-D Armhole diameter = 16,5 cm + 1 cm allowance for the dart cut-out = 17.5 cm

The armhole width/diameter can also be a little narrower, although this comes at the expense of the sleeve width.  At a, 2 cm is removed from the side dart.  Because the addition to the armhole width is only 1 cm, the missing amount of 1 cm is replaced by shifting the side seam at the back r-r1.

G3-G4 - The same amount as At-D
D-G4   Side seam-guideline
t2-t3   Waist = 1 cm higher
t3-U   Draw the waistline
t3-T3  Waist suppression = 1 ¾ cm
T3-G4 Side seam down
T3-D   Side seam up
D-S2   Side tip, taken from the Back (same as r1-S from the back)
D-L3 Take the length from Back
A2-S2 Armhole as in the draft
At-F1 Sleeve marks = ¼ Ad. % 1 cm
U-L4 Front hem length = the amount t2-L3 + 1,5 cm
L3-L4 Draw the bottom edge
G4- Control the seat width (test the actual draft length with the calculated measurements):
G3-G5 = Chest Width At-B
G5 - Find the amount G1-G2 from the back on your tape measure . . .
G4- . . . match it with G5 and measure to G4. It should equal ½ the seat width + 7,5-8,5cm ease.
H-Ta Pocket depth = 7 cm, 1 cm more at the front
Ta-  5 cm backwards, 17 cm forwards
At-a Side dart = 4,5 cm
Ta-b    Side dart = 2.5 cm
G3-g    Side dart = 2.5 cm
a/b/g Guideline down
a- Dart cut-out each 1 cm = 2 cm (total), as in the draft, ca. 12 - 14 cm, below which the pattern is widened towards L6 (the small triangle between g1 and L6 is overlapping)
 (L7 is from the basic draft. L6 this draft)
U- Front edge allowance = 1.5 cm
H1-h1 Lapel crease line = 2cm. Crease line, Lapel, chest pocket, side pockets, button placement and further details see drawing.

Shrink is to make smaller using water and heat (with natural fiber cloth).
Stretch is to make larger using water and and heat (with natural fiber cloth).
A heavy hot iron is used to encourage the shrinking or stretching.

My Chinese - Mandrin extends only to saying my name and saying thankyou. ;(

I will leave the translation in English then.  I have put together a little glossary, and there are explanations in the text. Any problems post a question.

G

Mmmm, I learned that there are pros and cons now,otherwise I will make a mess - baking without a recipe...disaster!
I think I will stick to the shore bought instant ones is a bit safer. Modern science makes life pretty good.
Thank you for sharing your experience, very much appreciated.