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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Bust Divergence? Donnanno drafts
« Last post by peterle on April 20, 2021, 06:55:53 PM »
It would have been enough to translate it with "bust distance" instead of bust divergence.

Yes, itīs surprising to find it on a childrenīs table.
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Thank you so much for doing this! Greatly appreciated.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Where is this from
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on April 20, 2021, 12:52:36 PM »
You can now see a translation of the measurement part of this post, which includes the complete description of measurement of Balance.

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1040.msg8167#msg8167
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Mueller Measurement System - including Front and Back Balance


Here is another translation of German tailoring literature.

This is from the 17th Ed of Mueller's 'Der Zuschnitt'

The outstanding part of this section, in this edition, is the description of the reasons for the measurements, and in particular, the measurement of front and back balance.

The images were originally posted here:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1032.0

I have translated this part of the book, again, with the help of peterle.

And this translation is presented here in *.pdf as:

"For Private Study Only"

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2b6rhck8y1lxay/Der%20Zuschnitt%2017th%20-%20Mueller%20Pg%2082%20.pdf?dl=0

G



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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Bust Divergence? Donnanno drafts
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on April 20, 2021, 10:08:36 AM »
"If the only tool you have is a hammer, Everything looks like a nail"   Maslow

The author didn't look far from their desktop to write the book. ;)

G
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Bust Divergence? Donnanno drafts
« Last post by TTailor on April 20, 2021, 08:15:09 AM »
Thanks so much!
I didn't try translating back to Italian to search.
Bust point to bust point i guess.
Not a measurement I expected to be included or needed  in a newborn to preteen size chart.


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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Bust Divergence? Donnanno drafts
« Last post by peterle on April 20, 2021, 06:56:58 AM »
Searched the web a little and found out the italian term is Divergenza seni usually found in ladies size tabels:

http://mrsartoria.it/Misure/Corpini/corpini.htm

The text says: "Divergenza seno: you get it by measuring the distance between the breast centers"

With the illustration Iīm pretty sure its the bust tip distance.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Bust Divergence? Donnanno drafts
« Last post by TTailor on April 20, 2021, 04:32:48 AM »
Hello All,
I recently needed to produce some children's costuming for a tv/film job, and I only had The book Metric Pattern Cutting for Childrens wear by Aldrich as a drafting reference.

So, even though I am trying not to purchase more books, I bought a book called Fashion Patternmaking techniques for Children's Clothing by Antonio Donnanno. His books are originally in Italian, and this is an English translation.

My question is regarding the sizing chart included in the book. One of the measurements is called Bust Divergence.
I am at a loss as to what this measurement means.

Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas about this? I don't see it referenced in the measurement diagram, nor do I see it in any of the basic drafts so far.

If an example helps - for the 12 month size the bust circ. is 49 cm, waist 48.5, hip 50  front chest width 20.8 sector (armhole width) 6.7  and bust divergence is 13 cm.

I can scan the chart and post it if that helps. It is in very very fine print, which is really unfortunate since all the diagrams are quite large and easy to read.

Thanks!
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Full Chest Alterations on a Man's Vest
« Last post by TTailor on April 19, 2021, 08:42:38 AM »
Something additional to consider is his height;  the pattern may be based on a shorter standard, and what the pattern is using as its standard chest and waist measurements.

Compare these to your husband's measurements.

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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Full Chest Alterations on a Man's Vest
« Last post by PGithens on April 19, 2021, 06:37:01 AM »
Holy moley!!!! You are so right!!!!!

I looked at the pattern again and indeed, there are TWO back band pieces! The one clue that I had was they tell you to cut two pieces (That's what 2x means. how did i miss that?) and the next one was the drawing where it shows how to sew the shoulder seam.



See that little picture? That is the back shoulder seam and it shows two back band pieces.....Burda patterns are brief in their wording, but once you get used to them, they are golden. As you can tell, I'm not used to them yet....

Sigh, back to the muslin again! Thank you!
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