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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: shirt drafting, forward collar
« Last post by peterle on Today at 05:32:09 AM »
The sloping is made in a different way. Imagina a fitting with the natural shoulderline marked on the fabric. you would pinch the shoulderline and lift it at the armhole till the slope looks right and then you would pin the lifted material away. This removes a wedge of fabric. Then you do this to the pattern: Remove a wedge with the natural shoulder line as center line. To keep the armhole depth as was you have to deepen the armhole base for the same amount you cut away at the top. Synopsis: You shift the whole armhole line downwards and reconnect the neckhole tips with the armhole tips.

You canīt do this lounge coat correction in a shirt, because the lounge coat doesnīt have a straight center front line like a shirt.

I think in the video not every step is shown. When pinning the pinning at the back armhole is because of the ronded back/shoulder and when he repins the front yoke seam he of  created a kind of little dart to get the yoke to curve forward. When proceeding he maybe will ease it in or maybe he pinches the yoke pattern.
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This wedge makes sure your jacket falls nicely over the stomage. In earlier days it was sometimes called tonneau wich means barrelshape. Otherwise larger sizes get to much cloth under the belly.
The system i learned uses the difference between breast und waist meassure as a guideline. But Rundschau usualy sticks to 1 to 1,5 cm in the older drafts. It literally say in the books: open up the pocket 1 cm bij making this wedge. Hope this tells you what you wanted to know.


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This wedge makes sure your jacket falls nicely over the stomage. In earlier days it was sometimes called tonneau wich means barrelshape. Otherwise larger sizes get to much cloth under the belly.
The system i learned uses the difference between breast und waist meassure as a guideline. But Rundschau usualy sticks to 1 cm in the older drafts. It literally say in the books: open up the pocket 1 cm bij making this wedge. Hope this tells you what you wanted to know.

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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: shirt drafting, forward collar
« Last post by Kiem on Today at 04:01:21 AM »
I downloaded a protractor measuring app on me phone and placed it on top of my shoulder.

My left shoulder measures about 20 degree, and my right shoulder about 24,5 degrees.
I did this facing a mirror, and by myself it is rather tricky, so the numbers could be a bit off. I guess it is close enough for now.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Shirt Fitting issues
« Last post by Petruchio on Today at 03:01:15 AM »
So this is the latest trial I made. As posaune suggested I added 1,5 cm to the front. After some trial and error I added the extra lenght through the whole chest area, changing the armhole as well, since the "pivoting" method didn't change the pulling lines. There is still some pulling sensation from the chest to the side seam, but all in all I now added more than 6 cm to the front, so I am a little hesitant if this can be right ;). I also added some width to the chest and reshaped the sleevehead.







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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: shirt drafting, forward collar
« Last post by Kiem on Today at 02:46:54 AM »
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGMveaNoo6k&frags=pl%2Cwn

17:50

This is what initially inspired me to even look at the fit of a shirt when I started making my own shirt patterns.

I copied his way of doing the shoulder slope, because it was my only reference at the time I could find.
I think even now this is the only video where some of the fitting stage is even shown.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: shirt drafting, forward collar
« Last post by Kiem on Today at 02:09:04 AM »
Ok, I see what you have done.

Shoulder slope alterations have to be done at the real shoulder line wich is on the highest line of your bodies shoulder and therefore (depending on your pattern instructions) about 2-4cm behind the front yoke seam. The alteration you did causes problems, because it's done at the wrong places and throws off the balance of the armhole.
A real forward shoulder needs an adjustment that creates more room for the front shoulder area. Just shifting the seamline- no matter wether you remove a wedge or a strip from the front and add it to the back- will not create more room. It will just shift the seam line optically.

I think you should do a muslin of your original pattern first without alterations. It's also better to determine the yoke seam lines after fitting. I'm also not sure you need a shoulder adjustment.
How would such an shoulder slope alteration look? I made a quick drawing on how I think it should look, please verify if this is the right idea.


And thanks for the verification on the forward shoulder alteration, thats exactly what I thought it did. Seam displacement optically.

If I recall correctly, a forward shoulder alteration on a coat would be to straighten the front neck point, take in the front of the armscye, let out the back of the armscye.
Thus getting rid of the excess fabric at centre front and the front of the scye.

I found this picture once.


If this is even correct, would this be done this way on a shirt aswell?


Maybe it is unclear in the pictures, but my right shoulder drops quite a bit compared to my left.

The 2,5 cm drop is based on my lowest shoulder compared to the original draft. I drop my left shoulder 1 cm based on original draft. So there is a 1,5 cm difference between my left and right shoulder. I guess depending on which draft is used the slope will be different?


For example, The slope on the waistcoat draft I use is a perfect match for my high shoulder.
I compared my waistcoat and shirt patterns with some measuring and calculating, and my shirt draft is more square shoulder by default.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: shirt drafting, forward collar
« Last post by peterle on Today at 12:47:23 AM »
Ok, I see what you have done.

Shoulder slope alterations have to be done at the real shoulder line wich is on the highest line of your bodies shoulder and therefore (depending on your pattern instructions) about 2-4cm behind the front yoke seam. The alteration you did causes problems, because it's done at the wrong places and throws off the balance of the armhole.
A real forward shoulder needs an adjustment that creates more room for the front shoulder area. Just shifting the seamline- no matter wether you remove a wedge or a strip from the front and add it to the back- will not create more room. It will just shift the seam line optically.

I think you should do a muslin of your original pattern first without alterations. It's also better to determine the yoke seam lines after fitting. I'm also not sure you need a shoulder adjustment.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Shirt Fitting issues
« Last post by posaune on March 29, 2020, 10:52:34 PM »
I would. And maybe doing fitting pics,  better is to button the shirt close. Otherwise you may missing some issues. Par example the left collar tip looks like it is lower than the right.
lg
posaune
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If you look closely they have in the second draft these pinching already in. look at the grainline. It is rotated.
lg
posaune
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