Recent Posts

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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: chest canvas construction question
« Last post by Greger on June 24, 2019, 05:21:43 PM »
A hymo for the main canvas and a hymo for the chest works for some tailors. One of the main reasons for the canvas is to prevent the body shape from showing thru. In building houses on soft ground a proper foundation the building will keep its proper shape. Without the foundation the post, rocks, whatever it is sitting on, these can sink. So, post 1 might sink 4 inches over 30 years. Post 2 and 3 might not sink at all. Post 5 might sink 7 inches. Post 6 might sink 5 inches, and so on. Then there is the other side of the house and some middle post. Your floor would not be level. One building I was in had 7 inches (?) of slope in just one room, which they had leveled one time by making a false floor, but even that became unlevel as time went on. eventually they put in piling and foundation on top and the whole building is level. One  house I used to look at was sloped quite a bit. If you split water on the high side it would run clear to the other side. Human chest are not flat and a coat over time will show ever bump and lump without proper foundation. A proper canvas construction prevents that. What else is a canvas foundation for? Anyway, that is the major aim, however it is done: and some tailors their maybe no other reason.
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RTW and MTM Discussion / Re: look FASHION
« Last post by Greger on June 24, 2019, 04:43:11 PM »
I think some fashions are about gab (talk, nonsense, hype), "Oh, so Cool." and not really about fit or good looks. Sometime fit matters, which might be some sort of improper. Find out what the nonsense is about and make that the best you can. Art is about stuff. Even nonsense. Seasonal is made for a season. Not a life time. One way to think about it is only put in as much as will be appreciated, and nothing more. Some of those coats are like a lab coat, but made for one seasons fashion. 1-3 hours to make. Not 30,000 hand stitches. And be handed over to Good Will at the end of the season. The trousers will last longer. As a boy sometimes I would buy Root Beer Pop. shake it up and then open it. So to say, the winner had the lest amount left to drink. We really didn't buy them to drink. Fashions are the same. Clothes for another purpose.
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: chest canvas construction question
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on June 24, 2019, 10:02:24 AM »
Love a good dissection.  Thanks for findinng this.

G
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: chest canvas construction question
« Last post by Philipdep on June 24, 2019, 05:03:30 AM »
Thank you! I had given up on expecting replies on this question.
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RTW and MTM Discussion / Re: look FASHION
« Last post by posaune on June 23, 2019, 09:23:38 PM »
I did not like the "small boy" suits - but I do not think I like the sloppy oversized look with the flip flops either.
Some of them are very nice styled clothes - clean in shape and fabric -  but how are they presented do not impress me much.
lg
posaune
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RTW and MTM Discussion / Re: look FASHION
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on June 23, 2019, 01:39:59 PM »
Oh, I'll have to get a twitter account.
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RTW and MTM Discussion / Re: look FASHION
« Last post by Greger on June 23, 2019, 01:06:26 PM »
interesting! Shirt style jackets. Much wider legged pants. Maye some fall fronts. Some shirts were different.
Some of this good for one season. Much of this looks easy to make for those who make popular stuff.
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RTW and MTM Discussion / look FASHION
« Last post by posaune on June 23, 2019, 06:32:51 AM »
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Good Books To Own / Re: Custom tailor's method
« Last post by Schneiderfrei on June 14, 2019, 12:56:56 AM »
Thank you posaune, they look great. His actions are very expressive.
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Good Books To Own / Custom tailor's method
« Last post by posaune on June 13, 2019, 11:52:04 PM »
I can across today to a series of wonderful videos. Vitale Barberis Canonico (Italian wool mill) did 12 episodes  titled Tailor tips.

t is so nice to see.
I'll download  them all and will look when I have enough time. In my eyes outstanding.
(Par example in # 11 there is shown the dressing of a trousers.)

lg
posaune
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