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Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by Jabez on Today at 02:29:22 AM »
My name is Jabez Im a third generation upholsterer. While I was thought how to sew early on I rarely ever did as my mother was better at it and more importantly in business- faster(my father as well). After I was given a sewing machine that functioned I easily tackled simple jobs and around the house to-dos.
Being thin, broad shouldered, tall(62), long armed(fingertip to fingertip 64), luckily Im not visually too ackward(just clumsy); so it goes without saying nothing off the rack fits me ideally. If the wast fits the pant legs are to short; if a buttoned shirt has proper length sleeves, it only comes in sizes that drowned me... on and on.
Naturally altering my clothes came to mind quickly after receiving my machine. Id only done a bit of preliminary reading when I realized I didnt know enough to get the results I wanted. Steadily working on increasing my skill (and sewing accesseries) with projects slowly advancing in difficulty. Im joining the cutter and tailor foram preemptively as Im sure to run aground sooner or later. I gather that this site has the unofficial gold seal of approval and since I want professional results it seems natural to seek advice from professionals. I look forward to filling in my knowledge gaps both painfully large and small.
Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by moreira323 on March 20, 2018, 03:16:25 AM »
Hi, thanks for accepting me in the group. my name is Hugo, I'm from portugal, I hope to find in this group knowledge for my progression in the art of tailoring, I have little experience but a lot of desire to learn. Best regards
I only need a bit of help from peterle these days. :)
Thank you! 
That is a lot of work!
I am presenting here a small sample of the kind of material covered in this volume (VI) of Der praktische Zuschnitt.  The following translation comprises the first few pages of the Vol VI.  It describes the advantages of the "Speaking Draft" that contains all the information required to produce the draft within the diagram.  It also tells how to adapt the draft on the cloth without resorting to redrawing.  Many thanks once again for peterle's help.

Rational Production of Basic Draft for an Individual Jacket

In general, to be able to effectively counter increasingly fierce competition in tailoring, it is necessary to check ones customary work practices for profitability.  Since in the production of a bespoke garment one must begin with the draft, in this brochure well try to give some practical indications and show a way one can

save time in production even at the stage of the draft,

without ignoring the individual body measurements.  The prerequisite for this is of course that the Mistress or Master controls the process in every detail.

For example, when one knows how the pattern changes when the back width, back length or front length differs for 0,5-1cm,

you dont need a new draft for each customer

but by using an existing pattern you will be able to draw the garment directly onto the fabric integrating the differences in measurements.  How far a perfect fit can be achieved depends, of course, on the accuracy of the measurements taken and from the correct execution of the draft as well as the general reliability of the cutting system.  Firstly, therefore, we show the

The Sectional Layout of the Basic Jacket Draft

Zeichnung 1

Main measures:                           ⅛
Kg  Body height   168 cm      84   42  21
Ow Bust width     100 cm       50         
Tl   Waist width     76 cm       38   19   
Gw  Seat width    106 cm       53         

Calculated measures:                                      Formulae
Sp back mirror width   7 cm =                      1/10 h. Ow + 2 cm
at back arm depth        21,5 cm =                 1/10 Ow + 1/10 h. Kg + 3 cm
Rl Back length             42 cm =                    Kg
Gt Seat depth               63 cm =                      + ⅛ Kg
Bt Chest depth             27 cm =                     1-2 cm under Ow-line
Vl Front length            42 cm =                      Rl + 2 cm

Rb Back width            18 cm =                       2/10 Ow minus 2 cm
Ad armhole diameter  11 cm =                       1/10 Ow + 1 cm
Bb chest width           21 cm =                       2/10 Ow + 1 cm
                                50 cm =                        Chest circumference

When checking the measurements it is recommended, to add together the last three related measurements, the back width, the armhole diameter and chest width: it must give half the bust.  As soon as a shortfall is discovered the measurements must be balanced according to the figure.  One must accordingly increase the Back- and Chest width evenly or only one or both measurements.  The contrary is done when there is surplus width.

The draft is worked up as a speaking draft.  All the important calculations and measurements are shown in the draft (are included).  Therefore, we can grasp the instructions very quickly.

Since here we are dealing with a normal waisted jacket draft, the ease allowances are set accordingly.  The ease is thus 1.5 cm in the back width, 2.5 cm in the armhole diameter and 2 cm in the chest width. Thus, we get a total ease of 6 cm for the half chest of an average jacket.

These additions for ease must naturally be determined according to fashion and from the point of view of taste.  They also vary according to the type of garment.

The back arm depth is increased by 2 cm.  If a very small, high armhole and a comparatively narrow sleeve should be required, an ease of 1.5 cm is sufficient.  Conversely, one can also use 2.5 cm ease for a jacket, if one wants a somewhat larger armhole and a wider sleeve.   

For this first presentation we have intentionally chosen a jacket draft, since the jacket ease allowances lie somewhat in the middle, between a dress and an overcoat.  By increasing or decreasing the width and length allowances one can thus, also develop further from the jacket draft a dress or overcoat cut.  One merely has to be aware of the necessary ease allowances.  Accordingly, we have inserted a table of the different allowances for dresses, jackets and overcoats.

Since, in this jacket draft, one can readily remove any amount at t1 and g1 below the back width line Rb, for the sake of simplicity, for this normal posture, we did not move the centre back inwards at the seat height and we hollowed the centre back line only 0.5 cm at the waist from T1-T.

The front part height and the shoulder height are determined normally and for the shoulder position of the front we marked the amount of the Hs towards the front from At to Hs.

For a smooth shoulder height at the back part, aah is lowered 3 cm; of course the amount by which the pattern must be pinched off in the middle of the armhole, or needed for a shoulder pad, must be specially added, thus be placed higher.  For the shoulder height at the front part, the amount from AvAh is raised by the same amount as Rbah minus 1 cm.

A a slim and smooth projection of the waist (centre front) is generally determined as waist measure minus 1-2 cm.  For this jacket draft we have, naturally, relaxed this measurement somewhat and calculated as waist circ. without the deduction.

For this draft, the total width of the waist tv-th is half the waist plus an allowance of 4 cm.  The excess in the waist (th T) is distributed as per the diagram (1-6-3 cm).

The center front seat point is determined according to the body shape of the customer.  In general one can push back from G1gv, the amount from T1tv at waist height minus 2 cm.  So, in the belly part, one achieves an allowance for the belly/trunk rounding of 2 cm.  This measurement must be determined accordingly, when the trunk protrudes more or is reduced.

The expected ease for the half seat width is 3 cm.  The shortfall that forms at Gtgh, plus the loss at g1 at the side must be overlapped. Everything else is as seen in the diagram.

Introduction from New Members / Re: Please introduce yourself here.
« Last post by ducapen on March 09, 2018, 05:17:26 PM »

I live in India and have made almost all of my own clothes for the last 40 years. I learnt from my mom and books, and for the past few years from the 'net.

My body has changed shape  over the years, and I find I need better techniques to achieve a good fit. I also want to be more adventurous with design, to which end I purchased a full body dressform yesterday (well, she doesn't have arms..)

Thanks for having me.
Professional Tailors / Re: the future of the craft
« Last post by Henry Hall on March 04, 2018, 07:22:23 AM »
The interesting bit is the 70% of custom based upon other customer referrals. A kick in the pants for the marketing wafflers who keep going on about how things have changed and tailoring must have 'scientific' marketing behind it. No doubt so they can charge their huge consulting fees.
I wish I had a better understanding of German.
I can follow along because I know how to put in pockets and flys,  but I wish I could easily understand more of the speaking in videos and more of the writing in the books I have.
Nicely done videos.

I really was thinking about doing this video in English and Spanish, too! Maybe I can add some subtitels, but my German and Spanish is excellent but in English I would need somebody to put it in correct phrases :D
So! You found this place.
It must be pretty nice to find a couple of your videos being recommended here.
Glad you came by. Hopefully you can participate now and then, when not to busy elsewhere.
Wish more tailors wrote here.

Yes, I was very proud to see my videos been recommend here! Normally, they where made for hobby sewers... in jackets for example we do the welt pockets nearly just by hand so a quite different way. But this is what I love about our profession! There are so many ways and I think these videos can help beginners in tailoring, too! As we see so little about men tailoring....

I am here from the first moment! But to be honest, we all have this busy days and I forget about the forum here :-(

Warm greetings from Cologne :-)

I wish I had a better understanding of German.
I can follow along because I know how to put in pockets and flys,  but I wish I could easily understand more of the speaking in videos and more of the writing in the books I have.
Nicely done videos.
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