Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Thank you so much for doing this! Greatly appreciated.

Here is another translation of German tailoring literature.

This is from the 17th Ed of Mueller's 'Der Zuschnitt'

The outstanding part of this section, in this edition, is the description of the reasons for the measurements, and in particular, the measurement of front and back balance.

The images were originally posted here:

http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1032.0

I have translated this part of the book, again, with the help of peterle.

And this translation is presented here in *.pdf as:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/s2b6rhck8y1lxay/Der%20Zuschnitt%2017th%20-%20Mueller%20Pg%2082%20.pdf?dl=0

G

Thanks so much!
I didn't try translating back to Italian to search.
Bust point to bust point i guess.
Not a measurement I expected to be included or needed  in a newborn to preteen size chart.

Hello All,
I recently needed to produce some children's costuming for a tv/film job, and I only had The book Metric Pattern Cutting for Childrens wear by Aldrich as a drafting reference.

So, even though I am trying not to purchase more books, I bought a book called Fashion Patternmaking techniques for Children's Clothing by Antonio Donnanno. His books are originally in Italian, and this is an English translation.

My question is regarding the sizing chart included in the book. One of the measurements is called Bust Divergence.
I am at a loss as to what this measurement means.

Does anyone have any thoughts or ideas about this? I don't see it referenced in the measurement diagram, nor do I see it in any of the basic drafts so far.

If an example helps - for the 12 month size the bust circ. is 49 cm, waist 48.5, hip 50  front chest width 20.8 sector (armhole width) 6.7  and bust divergence is 13 cm.

I can scan the chart and post it if that helps. It is in very very fine print, which is really unfortunate since all the diagrams are quite large and easy to read.

Thanks!

Holy moley!!!! You are so right!!!!!

I looked at the pattern again and indeed, there are TWO back band pieces! The one clue that I had was they tell you to cut two pieces (That's what 2x means. how did i miss that?) and the next one was the drawing where it shows how to sew the shoulder seam.



See that little picture? That is the back shoulder seam and it shows two back band pieces.....Burda patterns are brief in their wording, but once you get used to them, they are golden. As you can tell, I'm not used to them yet....

Sigh, back to the muslin again! Thank you!