Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Changes made to draft:
#2: You have to lower the front edge to get a horizontal hemline/equal length, because the body consumes the added length. (You also did it to the front waistline). The balance should be checked at the marked chestline/waistline and not the hem.
#3: More surpression shortens the diagonal from the pocket to the shoulderblades and can cause diagonal folds.
#4: why did you change the SA? is your sewing machine foot only 1/4" wide?
#5: Be aware that a bubble at the neck can have different causes, not necessarely a too tight back neck. Did you also widen the front neckhole then?

Notes:
#1 diagonal folds can have different causes (look #3above). without pics itīs impossible to say somthing.
#2 When the hem hikes up the back balance is most probably relatively too short. Does the back chestline also hike up?  Balance issues have to be solved first, an eventually hanging side can be cared for later.

A tip: Fitting one self is nearly impossible and very frustrating. Skip making thousands of muslins, take a friend and an afternoon and make a gummed paper strip dummy of yourself. Itīs so much easier to pin fit than trial and error.

Maybe a snapshot of your draft will clarify any aberations...

Thanks posaune, thats exactly what I thought.

Although very cringy to watch, I'm afraid that is the bespoke process with Turnbull & Asser.



I would also think, that the cuff as a whole looks rather massive - which seems to be exaggerated by a very loose and sloppy looking sleeve.

There is also a rather devastating critique of their process on this blog:

https://shirtingfantasy.blogspot.com/2018/04/turnbull-asser-engish-bespoke-shirt.html

https://shirtingfantasy.blogspot.com/2018/12/turnbull-asser-english-bespoke-shirt.html

Trick would be to take a junk pair to a sharpener and see how well they are sharpened. I would not risk an old rare pair unless you are very sure of the person. For valuable shears I would be inclined to see how they do the work and if they are any good, don't be afraid to pay for it. The $5.00 resharpen is about the five bucks, pay a bit more and it may be about getting you a good result.

I'm at a loss as to where I can take shears to be sharpened. I used to bring everything up to Ernest Wright, but now I'm in the US.

The local craft and fabric shops have regularly scheduled sharpening professionals. (Maybe not so regular now due to COVID-19.) I've walked past them a few times before while shopping but I'm not fully convinced I want to trust them with my best vintage shears. Their schedules also conflict with work hours...

Any advice on reputable sharpening services? Are any mail order places decent? Could I do any maintenance on my shears myself?

(I bought a really cheap pair of new old stock home dressmaking shears made in Japan. I'm not sure why - I have plenty of serious tools for real work! I guess morbid curiosity and pity for them left unopened with their sadly shoddy but cheerful little blue handles. How bad are they? I'm curious if they will amount to anything other than decoration or paperweights.  I can't really make them any worse.)