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Changes made to draft:
#2: You have to lower the front edge to get a horizontal hemline/equal length, because the body consumes the added length. (You also did it to the front waistline). The balance should be checked at the marked chestline/waistline and not the hem.
#3: More surpression shortens the diagonal from the pocket to the shoulderblades and can cause diagonal folds.
#4: why did you change the SA? is your sewing machine foot only 1/4" wide?
#5: Be aware that a bubble at the neck can have different causes, not necessarely a too tight back neck. Did you also widen the front neckhole then?

Notes:
#1 diagonal folds can have different causes (look #3above). without pics itīs impossible to say somthing.
#2 When the hem hikes up the back balance is most probably relatively too short. Does the back chestline also hike up?  Balance issues have to be solved first, an eventually hanging side can be cared for later.

A tip: Fitting one self is nearly impossible and very frustrating. Skip making thousands of muslins, take a friend and an afternoon and make a gummed paper strip dummy of yourself. Itīs so much easier to pin fit than trial and error.
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Pardon the blotches, just came out of the shower. And poor quality, it's past midnight!

Changes made to draft.
1. Higher gorge
2. Didn't extend/lower front edge by 5/8" (1.5cm)
    - Prefer equal length front and back. Also to check for balance
3. Back and side panel suppression 3/4" (instead of 5/8" or 1.5cm)
4. Seam allowances removed - used 1/4" (instead of 0.75cm)
5. Neck width of 3.5" instead of 3.25" as in draft.
    - back neck was tight and formed a bubble along my neck
6. Made the dart extend till hem and added width to muslin. So I minimise cutting fabric and easier for changes




I'll make this thread into a journal form. Helps with my issues and hope others can avoid making so many muslins!

Will do it up tomorrow.

Notes
1. Noticed low shoulder, diagonal drag lines // \\ from the middle of my back to waist
2. Hem hikes up at mid back
3. Probably have one lower shoulder, right side? (clarify)

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Maybe a snapshot of your draft will clarify any aberations...
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Wow, i'm still on my draft. Its pretty hard to fit myself. Going through so many muslins!

I'm shocked by the date I first posted this

Questions!
1. 0.75cm Seam allowance --> Have they all been highlighted in red?
2. Does this reduce/lower height of the thick blue lines  down by 0.75cm as well?
   - i.e. If RB-S = 5cm, after seam allowance = 4.25cm


Going through a lot of books/resources but my low shoulder seems to be quite bad, ive dropped the shoulder and neck point by almost 1.5inch. Must be doing something wrong so im redrawing my pattern.



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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Videos on Tailoring - Suggestions
« Last post by Petruchio on August 05, 2020, 01:28:18 AM »
Thanks posaune, thats exactly what I thought.

Although very cringy to watch, I'm afraid that is the bespoke process with Turnbull & Asser.



I would also think, that the cuff as a whole looks rather massive - which seems to be exaggerated by a very loose and sloppy looking sleeve.

There is also a rather devastating critique of their process on this blog:

https://shirtingfantasy.blogspot.com/2018/04/turnbull-asser-engish-bespoke-shirt.html

https://shirtingfantasy.blogspot.com/2018/12/turnbull-asser-english-bespoke-shirt.html

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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Videos on Tailoring - Suggestions
« Last post by posaune on August 05, 2020, 12:55:39 AM »
T&A Shirt:
That is not "bespoke". There was never a fitting - it is MTM. The bust lacks width (and length; the guy is always pulling it down). The stand of the collar is too high for his neck , the cuffs..... sigh..... maybe James Bond had other proportions?  The ironing: It comes out of the parcel so it will look that way.
But did you notice the sales man? What a bad fitting jacket (the union jack lining did not make it better)  the tie?
lg
posaune
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Scissors And Shears / Re: Sharpening
« Last post by hutch-- on August 04, 2020, 06:34:10 PM »
Trick would be to take a junk pair to a sharpener and see how well they are sharpened. I would not risk an old rare pair unless you are very sure of the person. For valuable shears I would be inclined to see how they do the work and if they are any good, don't be afraid to pay for it. The $5.00 resharpen is about the five bucks, pay a bit more and it may be about getting you a good result.
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The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Videos on Tailoring - Suggestions
« Last post by spookietoo on August 04, 2020, 06:28:11 PM »
Hendrick - good catch on the collar - I hadn't noticed it. And I also think I see a bit of a poor press on the front placket......

This is reminding me of my youth. Quickly grabbing the shirt from the ironing board : collar, cuffs, and mid front of shirt pressed, slipping my jacket on as I run out the door, and reminding myself that I can't remove my jacket all day long because my shirt wasn't actually ironed......yep that pressing job is now looking familiar... :-\
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Scissors And Shears / Sharpening
« Last post by Futura on August 04, 2020, 04:33:55 PM »
I'm at a loss as to where I can take shears to be sharpened. I used to bring everything up to Ernest Wright, but now I'm in the US.

The local craft and fabric shops have regularly scheduled sharpening professionals. (Maybe not so regular now due to COVID-19.) I've walked past them a few times before while shopping but I'm not fully convinced I want to trust them with my best vintage shears. Their schedules also conflict with work hours...

Any advice on reputable sharpening services? Are any mail order places decent? Could I do any maintenance on my shears myself?

(I bought a really cheap pair of new old stock home dressmaking shears made in Japan. I'm not sure why - I have plenty of serious tools for real work! I guess morbid curiosity and pity for them left unopened with their sadly shoddy but cheerful little blue handles. How bad are they? I'm curious if they will amount to anything other than decoration or paperweights.  ;D I can't really make them any worse.)
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Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Trouser inlay
« Last post by Futura on August 04, 2020, 04:06:08 PM »
Many thanks to everyone for the helpful input! Apologies for my delayed answer. Health issues and a lack of internet access at our new home until very recently have gotten in the way.

I will try the suggestions mentioned. I had been chalking out around a net pattern, then painstakingly chalking out the seam allowances and inlay around it. (I think I would prefer it if the draft included seams!)
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