Some questions about waiscoat/vest

Started by Maël, May 27, 2020, 07:41:31 PM

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Maël

Hi, I'm young so I Don't have lots of experience but I would like to make my own vest. I have already make one but I am not very happy for with the résult.
I need help. First, one my pattern, there is no darts, consequently I find the waist is not quite marked but I Don't no how ad darts in my pattern. I think the dart is a very difficult subjet, therefore if i try to learn it alone.
Secondly, i think my fabric was not enough thick to "hold" without canvas. But here too, i Don't know what canvas buy because he will be least thick that a jacket's canvas no? (I Don't want to use "thermostick" canvas!)  If you have a scheme whith the vest's canvas if there is several layers. And where the canvas is sew whith the fabric, ? I precise I do a vest without lapel.
And for the fitting (with myself...), how I proceed because the waiscoat need to be returned on himself at the end.
Thanks for your help and excuse me for my English, I'm French and not very gifted in language :)

posaune

See Mael, you can got a lot of advice  - but with a pic you can get better advices coming more to the point. Be it the darts, the canvas or a fabric for a lined vest (which you want to turn inside out - I think you meant "bagging"?).
lg
posaune

Maël

Thanks for your answer even i Don't understand all you said ("Be it the darts"). But if i have understand you want a pic of my first vest for give better advices?
Sorry if I don't quite understand...

Thom Bennett

#3
Hi Maël, Basically what posaune is saying, post a photo of your work, whether of the pattern, or the waistcoat. With pictures it is easier for us to offer the correct advice, relying on just descriptions can throw up many confusions. If you have a little look at some of the posts asking for help you will see the kind of images that are posted here. If it is of a garment make sure you take all four angles (front, both sides, & back) plus, it is really useful to thread-mark the various construction lines such as chest, waist, hip, centre front so we can see where the imbalances are in the garment.

If the photo is of the pattern make sure all the markings are clear, points are labeled and above all which system you are using, unless of course you are making up a commercial pattern which will just require photographing and posting. With all this information it will be easier for the forum to offer advice.

Obviously, or not, it will make for a better image if you can get another person to take the 'physically distanced' photographs.

My first questions would be about the pattern drafting system you are using? It sounds like you are drafting this yourself and not using a commercial pattern, which is fine. My next question would be: exactly where are you with your sewing journey? Have you sewn anything before or is this your first project? How are your sewing skills? Learning a craft is not necessarily linear, while learning to draft a pattern, or learning about fitting you could practice your needlecraft, buttonholes, different stitch types etc, practice using shears, lots of reading.

Depending on the above answers will help us to take you in the right direction, there is no point in running if you can't yet walk.

All the best with your endeavours, looking forward to your questions. We're a friendly bunch so just ask a question, nothing is too stupid.

Tom.
"Tailored with Love and Passion"

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Maël

Hello Tom,
For this project, i used a very bad pattern, I reproduce the front and the back from a vest i had already... I know it's not the good way but I had not find another way. Now I have find a book which explain how make is own vest pattern but I don't find the time to take my measurement.
About my sewing journey, I don't know exactly, yes i have already sew anything but i want to start to use « tailors's techniques » before starting my tailors' studies and i chose the vest to begin because it's the garment the easiest to sew. I practice lots of hand sewing (I prefer this that the machine) and yes i have already do buttonholes but my fabric is fraying enormously so it's difficult, I don't have beewax too. And yes i read some books too.
I send some pic of my vest below.
I don't know why, but i don't do the back whith the lining... (the colors are not harmonious because i'm color blind and on the site where i buy my fabric, the colors were différents ...)
Also, I had create a pants pattern from a book and my measurement but i don't know if this book is recommanded (« how to make sewing pattern ») tell me if it's not a good book 😊
Tell me if it's a very bad work but help me too please
Thanks











TTailor

Portez le gilet et prenez trois photos. Le devant, côté et le dos.
Pouvez vous trouver un modèle commercial pour un gilet? Est qu'il y a un magasin de tissue près de vous?


Sewing is one skill to learn and pattern drafting and fitting is another.

Do not try to learn everything at the same time, tailoring is learned step by step.

I am glad you have posted for advice.


TTailor

https://atailormadeit.blogspot.com/2010/11/waistcoat-drafting.html

I have a few posts about waistcoat drafting on my blog.

I know it is difficult to read in another language. Perhaps it is useful?




TTailor


Maël

Below there is the 3 pictures.
And yes I agree about "learn step by step (tailoring)". But what I learn first? Drawing or sewing ? (fitting is the last i think)
I will watching all this links.
Thanks for them and for your help. And yes, it's not easy to learn in another language but i Don't i have the choice and i like.
Yes there is a fabric shop at about 35 minutes but there is no man pattern...






TTailor