Daks waist construction?

[spookietoo]

Dunc posted this topic on C&T a month ago with no replies...so I thought I'd ask here.

I'd been contemplating something similar on my next waistband - belts, braces/suspenders not being a viable option for me, but I really like the look of this treatment - doesn't look like "old lady pants".

I had already planned a seam in the center back waist, and I'm assuming the elastic in the daks is sewn in place at this point thus allowing the elastic to float in the tunnel, separately on each side, with the tab ends buttoned in place to prevent rolling. Am I correct in thinking the elastic is reinforced by being stitched to a layer of fabric or should I be looking for a specific type of elastic?

Any pointers on this one would be truly appreciated!

[posaune]

well maybe not everyone knows what a daks is? (I do not)
When doing a, elastic in a waist band, I would not do a back center seam in the waist band (like in men's trouser - for easier alterations). I would avoid bulk in every form. The elastic just run in the back  - in front a nice plain good interlined waist band.
posaune

[spookietoo]

This is the most comprehensive description I've found on the net:

http://www.keikari.com/english/a-history-of-the-daks-waistband/

Not sure if I posted link correct - not good at it on my phone.  Typing "keikari.com daks" got me there.

I've just never cared for the look or feel of an elastic waist, but for now I need something to keep the britches up.

Just a more polished look, and moving the buttons as I lose weight should be simple.

[Theoretically Grey]

On the C&T forum is a thread concerning DAKS http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4327. I don't think that it answers all your questions, but it might help a little bit. Personaly I don't have any experience with DAKS trousers.

[spookietoo]

TG - Thank you for that link to C&T. I bing'd it several times but that post never came up. C&T is wonderful haystacks filled with needles - just can't always find the one you're looking for!

I think Henry answered most of my questions - pretty much describing what I had in mind. Not quite sure what width of elastic would be best, but that may turn out to be a personal preference thing.

Thanks again!

[Dunc]

Spotted this topic so thought I'd register and pass on what little experience I have, having made my Daks top trousers recently...

Regarding the elastic, I used 1" trouser elastic from B & B, which seems ideal for the task: https://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/accessories/haberdashery/1-trouser-elastic/. I re-enforced the button tabs with pocketing. At the CB, I cut the elastic around an inch short of the CB seam and sewed it to another piece of pocketing, which I then sewed into the waistband interfacing and caught in the CB seam... This was to avoid having the thickness of the elastic in the seam (a tip from another C & T thread). The one commercially-made pair of Daks tops I have just have the elastic caught in the seam - although they have been altered, so I'm not 100% sure exactly what the construction was like when they were new.

I'm pretty happy with how they turned out.

[spookietoo]

Thank you Dunc!

I'm a bit concerned with the pressure my waist circumference will place on this concept so using the pocketing to reduce bulk at the seams and joints sounds like a great solution.

I've picked up 1-1/4" non-roll elastic for my first attempt as my waistband is a bit wider on this initial pair. I'll keep a pic of what you've used for future reference.

My first few pairs will just be cotton twill until I'm satisfied with the cut.

Thanks again!  I think this thread has at least joined all of the relevant information into one spot.

[Dunc]

There's a couple of other C & T threads with valuable little tidbits:

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3902

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2223

I did go with my idea of doing the waistband interfacing in two sections, so that the elastic can run inside the interfacing at the back, and it seems to work quite well. However, I would probably use a stiffer interfacing than the linen waistcoat canvas next time.

[spookietoo]

Thanks again!  So much "engineering" for such a simple concept!

[Henry Hall]

I found that having cloth extensions on the elastic - to reduce bulk in the back seam - doesn't actually work as well as having the elastic run to the back. Only the thickest of elastic poses a problem.

I imagine it will be different for different people, since everyone has different techniques for making up.

Ever since I started making Daks tops I can't tolerate ordinary waistbands. It's more work though, and I live in fear that the elastic will fail and I'll have to open them up to replace it...