ABC das Schneiderhandwerks Heft 6 - The Jacket

[Schneiderfrei]

This is an actual Hen's tooth.  I have looked for this volume for 10 yrs. As some of you may know the pdf available to date is missing two pages, related to attaching the sleeve. As it is the first edition and not read much, the images are clearer and brighter. I have scanned these at 400 dpi.

Here is a link to Das ABC des Schneiderhandwerks Heft 6 - The Processing of the Dinner Jacket.

Presented here for Private Study


https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/mgcvpt9dj0qwuy6357ifv/ABC-6-Sakkos.pdf?rlkey=4g4ir2t9400r2ju7gh6fkc4wd&dl=0

[OlymposPartizanos]

Thank you so much! Those 2 lost pages are finally here. I'm trying to understand them but unfortunately not directly in German. For now what I think the process is: when sewing the shoulder and sleeve, put a diagonal fabric under the side of shoulder (instead of putting a sleevehead felt/canvas on top of the sleeve side like normally do); After sewing, fold that fabric piece along the seam towards the shoulder side, and hand stitch it tight. Is that correct? 

[Schneiderfrei]

Im working on it.

But you're right about the bias cloth.

[Schneiderfrei]

when sewing the shoulder and sleeve, put a diagonal fabric under the side of shoulder (instead of putting a sleevehead felt/canvas on top of the sleeve side like normally do);

OK, It's very difficult for me to get a faithful interpretation of the German on scanning, so it's taken me a while.

Yes a diagonal/bias piece, cut in a curved sort of pad, is attached under the shoulder seam (that seam coming from the neck to the scye), in order to soften the transition from the shoulder to the softer sleeve. It goes over the shoulder pad. So it's there to modify the bulk of the shoulder seam.

After sewing, fold that fabric piece along the seam towards the shoulder side, and hand stitch it tight.

The edge of the armhole seam is folded back inside the bodice, to leave the sleeve free of any untidy pressure, while the bias, curved pad projects into the sleeve, to do the softening.

G