Blazer fitting

[jruley]

Here are the fronts:

[jruley]

Here front and back of both shoulders with collar off:

[jruley]

And here is the collar so you can see the shape:



Something else.  Cabrera is big on building concave shape into the front shoulder, so there is a cut in the canvas at 1/3 shoulder width which is held open with a wedge.  Of course this wasn't accounted for in the toile, and I didn't pay much attention to the shoulders in the baste fitting.

[peterle]

Mark your neckline and let someone pin the collar on while you wear the coat.
Or baste the collar"over the finger" so it get's a bit more length.
Or let someone measure your neckline when wearing the coat. Probably it is stretched without collar.

[jruley]

I measured the neckline and compared it to the collar.  Looks like the collar is about 3/4" (2 cm) short. 

Oh well, it was good practice; and it's easier to replace than opening the shoulders...

[Greger]

Like the color. It's very nice.
If you look at Clarence Poulin's book about setting the collar he has a few details the other books don't have. A bit of this and a bit of that until you find what you want.

[jruley]

All finished!  Thanks as always for everyone's help.

The apparent change in color is due to different lighting, it's the same coat.

Here it is buttoned at top:

[jruley]

And unbuttoned:









Now, what can I do better next time?

[Greger]

That is very nice.
Are your neighbors begging for you to make them some clothes?
Love that color. Beautiful. Your button holes look good on the sleeves. They should draw some attention.
So many clothes look awful on so many people. It is nice to see a quality garment.

[jruley]

Thanks Greger, that's very encouraging 

A few pictures of details:

[peterle]

Well done Jruley. A lot of work, isn't it?
I would make the sleeves a bit shorter, so they show a bit of the shirt sleeves.
And the lapels are supposed to end at the top button. Your's seem to end a bit above.

[jruley]

Thank you peterle.  Yes, a LOT of work.  Probably more time than I've put in any previous garment.

I think Americans might like their sleeves a little longer than Europeans.  At least I do.  But maybe a little shorter next time.

I took the lapel style from this old Towncraft blazer I've worn forever:




Probably long since out of style.

What do you think of the lapel width, notch height, and overall length?

Do you see any technical issues?

[peterle]

Lapel Style is a personal preference thing, so when you like the width and falling crochet seam, it's good you copy an existing one.
But it should reach to the top button the next time. Make a three button coat when you prefere a short lapel. Don't forget, the lapel mimics a front edge that rolls over held by the top button. A too short lapel hangs in the air.