Front scye measure device

Started by vaibhavkhurana, December 17, 2024, 06:48:50 PM

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Hendrick

Quote from: Der Zuschneider on December 25, 2024, 07:51:19 AM
Quote from: peterle on December 22, 2024, 07:45:30 PMWhat are your experiences?
Did you use them and are they useful devices?
There was a similar  kind of frame metal device for the Lenassi System "Der Reformschneider". Didn't look very handy...
I have that Lenassi device here too in a box. Excellent tool. Probably the best ever developed.
But really you dont need those devices. You can use a strong paper folded in the middle and put it under the arm to find the scye depth. Once you have the scye depth compared with the proportion, you can figure out, what is wrong with the body.

Yes, that and a small leadline or plumb line and a square angle to find a perfect horizontal as well as determine the fore- and back arm points. Like Greger said it is imperative that everything is perfectly level; the armhole is formed in a perfect rectangle.

Cheers, Hendrick 

Greger

Drape is a straighter cut. Which means the front edge is closer to the neck point.
One way to maybe describe it is, draw lines down from the front edge, neck point, end shoulder point (this can vary), and the seam that sews to the back.
With these lines drawn you can move the front line closer to the neckpoint line (not sure Scholt did this). The shoulder end line can be moved over, which moves the scye over. Or move the side seam over, which changes the scye as necessary. If you want 2 inches of drape you are pushing these lines apart somehow to get the drape you want and where. Anderson and Shepard may still add an inch to the back shoulder. And there is shrinking and stretching to produce pleasing shapes and clean fall of cloth.
A normal pattern can be adjusted this way. Have inlays and at the fitting decide what floats your boat.

pfaff260

I had posted it before, but here it is again. somehow it disappeared.