Jacket grainline

[Hendrick]

Thank you!

[Greger]

Hendrick,
Some patterns the waistline moves up as it moves back. Need to be aware of that, too.
What's your opinion about the question you asked?

[Schneiderfrei]

Hofenbitzer has a very adaptive view of waistlines. He is drafting for females, but its completely likely men have similar variations.

[Hendrick]

Hendrick,
Some patterns the waistline moves up as it moves back. Need to be aware of that, too.
What's your opinion about the question you asked?

I was actually fishing for your opinion... But in fact, I was trying to immagine the slanted center back on a strong yarn dyed fabric and concluding that a heavy chevron effect would occur. Maybe fine (but still disturbing) with a fine bankers'stripe but not with a chalk stripe or, worse, a check where you would obviously center the window of the check. That was what started my post. I have no experience in bespoke but I have seen cutters (like my dad) balancing and adjusting pattern parts to a design while striking. I was curious to hear the reaction of an experienced person. Your remark about the waistline is bang on and in womens' pattern making is a devil. When a coat swings out, the waistline is like a pendulum hung by the atlas point of the neck; with more volume the waist will go up more than you expect every time. Then, going back to front you find that the volume compensates for the chestwidth; balance gone! And that is, without the bulk and weight of the fabric...

Cheers, Hendrick