Improving the waistband finish

Started by EvanTA, September 21, 2024, 12:21:16 AM

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EvanTA

I'm still plugging away on trousers, now up to four pairs of pants and one pair of shorts and getting pretty pleased with most elements - except the waistband finish, mainly the inside. At first I was following the Hostek way of lining the inside with pocketing and felling it down, and that looks fine but I wanted something different. Looking through some of the nicer pants in my own closet many had the pleated curtain partially covered by waistband lining style, and some use their own ready-made waistband lining, but that seems like a lot of material, bulk, and steps. I'd rather have something simpler and more elegant.

Fiddling around myself I made this one sample that is pretty clean - no visible stitching on the inside. It's a 1.5" waistband with a 1.75" ban-roll that I fuse to the pocketing/lining instead of the trouser material. I completely encase the ban-roll with the lining. Then, to hold that down I make some small stitches attaching the underside of the ban-roll/lining to the seam allowance of the trouser material.

Anyone else want to share their approach to waistband finishes that they think I should consider? Again my goal is clean visuals that doesn't sacrifice functionality or elegance, and fairly simple execution.

Or, anyone spot any obvious flaw in my approach...

pictures of my sample here: https://imgur.com/a/qu4Kq9I

Hendrick

Is there any lamination on the outer waistband? Also, I would loosely overcast the seam if you use this few stitches to fix yr inside waistband...

EvanTA

No lamination on the outer waistband. Honestly what happened was I accidentally ordered 1.75" ban roll instead of 1.5", and I wondered what it would be like to affix it to the inner lining instead of the waistband so I wouldn't have to trim down the ban roll. Maybe by accident I'll have stumbled on a different approach, but maybe it's a bad idea and I should just order the right width ban roll.

EvanTA

Update: this approach I described didn't work. Too awkward and I still need reinforcement around the button closure at the front. I'm going to go back to the Hostek method of bringing pocketing all the way up to act as the lining. I redrew pattern pieces for this to hopefully get that to fit better, one of my issues was it just looked sort of sloppy when I was done with it in past versions. I did get my hands on some nice interfacing though, a sew on type that's a densely woven cotton, troilo, to use on the next one. Seems nice so far.