How to sew darts according to drafting patterns in 1920s to 40s?

[OlymposPartizanos]

I used to make jackets according to some more modern Chinese drafting patterns which have a side piece. Recently I'm trying to make a new one according to the MTOC (1949 edition) and some other pages of Tailor & Cutter magazine pages I collected at that period. I was a little confused by the instructions of sewing darts. I was even more confused after I compared a 1928 edition of MTOC which front dart only "suppressed no more than 1/4".

Should I sew out or cut out by the amount that described in text? Some text use "suppress" and some use "take out" to describe the darts, are they the same? For under arm dart that runs towards the scye bottom, should it be two seam allowances included there that needs to be sew out, or should it be just a sharp end there?

BTW, in MTOC there's a describtion of lapel dart as "A small dart is taken out ... it is not opened, seamed only", how much ammount should I actually sew out there according to the text?

[TSjursen]

The patterns in the mtoc have all seams included so when they say "no more than 1/4 inch" the actual finished dart will remove 3/4" of cloth. That is about the largest double ended front dart you can make without getting into trouble with the fullness at the bottom of the dart.

[Greger]

Don't cut the darts until you know how wide they look best. Some tailors never cut the breast dart. On heavy set men sometimes it is best omitted. The deeper the sideseams and darts the more bulge there is other places, which can get out of hand. It can change the way and purpose to shape with the iron. Smaller width darts creat less bulge. Shorter darts can enhance or not. Bones and flesh vary from person to person. Some tailors lack artistic abilities while others are amazing. Some customers want a fitted bland coat while others want splendor. Some people's personalities can't wear some kinds of governments. They need it shaped to fit them. Some of these tailors made some coats that looked like the 1920. Some, back then, made coats that would fit in then and now. The coats do not have to be time warped. Although, these kinds of clothes might disappear all together.

[OlymposPartizanos]

The patterns in the mtoc have all seams included so when they say "no more than 1/4 inch" the actual finished dart will remove 3/4" of cloth. That is about the largest double ended front dart you can make without getting into trouble with the fullness at the bottom of the dart.

Thank you so much! So in this term actually there's 2 of 1/4 inch seams being removed after finish at the bottom of the scye at the top of the under-arm dart, is that right?

Furthermore, the MTOC 1949 edition stating that "suppress 1/2 inch" for the front breast dart, does that means 1 inch removed in actual finishing? That would be a lot more than I've learned before...

[Schneiderfrei]

Waist suppresion refers to the amount removed from the draft. so that's a total amount.

These instructions all refer to a draft, or a pattern, (which is a more finished version of a draft), rather than the cloth on the table.

[OlymposPartizanos]

Waist suppresion refers to the amount removed from the draft. so that's a total amount.

These instructions all refer to a draft, or a pattern, (which is a more finished version of a draft), rather than the cloth on the table.

Thank you so much! I have some findings after a few research about this problem. Just wrote them into another post:

https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=1387.0

[Greger]

Human bodies are many shapes and postures and other things to consider, such as, lower shoulder, shorter leg, busted bones that didn't set correct, and, so on. One side the dart could be wider than the other side. Whatever makes the person look normal, or grand.
Mass-production is hard to do this.