Jukes Jacket Project

Steelmillal · September 14, 2023, 07:41:33 PM

Jukes Jacket Project
This is the starter link. I arrived after it was completed and the wayback machine didn't capture and link the photos to the text. I have a file with everything captured but need to look how to tie it all together and post. It's a good step by step. The photo links work in the wayback machine. Photobucket was purged long ago, but sometimes there are echoes.

An example of what comes up.
https://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10458.jpg
Sometimes only thw wayback machine photos are available. For some reason sometimes the link isn't complete when I cutNpaste so keep that in mind when digging deep.
https://web.archive.org/web/20111112033836/http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10458.jpg
Left above so you see what I ref.

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:45:12 AM

Found a .txt file with all the live links saved but exceed character limit. Will break it up and post so's save time. Random checks links work.

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:47:09 AM

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10192.jpg
Mark stitching the foreparts
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10193.jpg
cut through the mark stitching
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10194.jpg
Mark stitching back and side body
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10195.jpg
And the sleeves
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10197.jpg
Lay the foreparts on the body canvas (single) allowing 1" (25mm) at top and bottom, cut canvas
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10198.jpg
lay chest canvas (double) !/2" (12.5mm) behind and 2" (50mm)from the bottom of lapel roll line of jacket and cut.
Now put them in a bucket of water and leave to soak overnight.
They can be put in the sink or bath but this seems to upset the other half.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10201.jpg
In the morning they will look like this.
Preparing the body canvas

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10202.jpg

With a hot iron, dry the canvas completely

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10203.jpg

Lay the forepart on the canvas, at the top, mark from the edge of the canvas to 1" (25mm) past the underarm / side body.
Measure the same distance in the opposite corner of the canvas

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10204.jpg

Strike a line between the two marks and cut through the line.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10205.jpg

Place the two pieces together widest part at the top, lay the foreparts on the canvas, with a straight edge placed against the front dart, mark the dart on the canvas, also mark the top end of the dart and the waistline.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10206.jpg

Place a straight edge along the roll line of the lapel, lift the top canvas and mark between canvas, this should mark both pieces of canvas.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10207.jpg

Trim outer edge of canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) past forepart.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10208.jpg

The blue chalk mark on the canvas is the position of the front dart on the forepart, mark the canvas 1" (50mm) behind the line at the waist, form that point mark a line aiming for a point 3" (75mm) above where the front dart on the forepart ends (the chest) measure the line from the waist and make it 1" (25mm) longer than the front dart on the forepart. This will prevent the two darts sitting on top of one another.
Cut through the waist line and the dart line on the canvas and take out 3/4" (18mm)

Shape the canvas from 1" (50mm) past the underarm / side body aiming for a point at the front waistline at the same time mark a line 2 1/2"(62.5mm)behind the front of the side pocket to the bottom. Shape as shown
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10211.jpg

Measure 1/3 distance of shoulder in from the neck, slash 3" (75mm)

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10210.jpg

Lay chest canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) behind lapel roll line, mark a line both sides of the body canvas dart aiming to a point 2" (50mm) above the end of the body canvas dart. (chest) cut both 3" (75mm) long

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10212.jpg

Slash chest canvas both sides of body canvas shoulder dart 3" (75mm) long

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10213.jpg

cut a bias piece of body canvas 4 1/2" (112.5mm) X 2" (50mm)

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10214.jpg

cut 4 strips of silesia / pocketing long enough to cover body canvas dart by 1" (25mm)at both ends X 3/4" (18mm) wide
MAKING UP THE CANVAS

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10215.jpg

lay one of the strips of Silesia / pocketing under the body canvas dart and stitch as shown

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10216.jpg

butt the dart together, stitch as shown

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10217.jpg

lay another strip on top, stitch both sides and stitch diagonally both ways from top to bottom

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10218.jpg

lay the bias strip of body canvas under the slash, open slash 3/4" (18mm) stitch as shown

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10220.jpg

Overlap chest canvas slash by 1/2" (12.5mm) stitch as shown

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10221.jpg

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10221.jpg

baste stitch the chest canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) behind the lapel roll line on the body canvas.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10222.jpg

Lay the felt onto the chest canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) back at lapel roll line and baste felt to canvas.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10223.jpg

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:48:02 AM

pad stitch through all layers keeping the shape of the chest.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10224.jpg

pad stitch around the bottom of the felt to stop it curling

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa284/Satorarepo/New/Jukes/SDC10225.jpg

Press canvas forming the shape of the chest, do not press chest area on a flat surface
Forepart darts and under arm / side body

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10229.jpg

Cut a piece of cloth 2" (50mm) x 1" (25MM) rounding off at one end

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10230.jpg

Baste dart and underarm / side body adding the cut of piece folded over at the top of the front dart

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10231.jpg

machine stitch front dart and underarm / side body. Take care to graduate gently when sewing from the tip of the dart to the waist at both ends.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/SDC10232.jpg

stretch the inlay only of the side body at the waist. When a seam has been sewn and the length on the inside is less than the outside it will not lay flat unless it has been stretched. There is another way which is to slash the inlay, however this will weaken the area and is no good in places where alterations are likely to take place.

Press open
Jetted pocket with flap

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10233.jpg

The cloth pieces required for the pockets

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10245.jpg

The fold marked on the welt (breast) bag can be cut

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10246.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10234.jpg

Mark the pockets (make sure your chalk has a sharp edge, always)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10235.jpg

lay the piece of cloth for the pocket flap right side up, matching grain, stripes or checks . If you want to match the jets on the pocket do the same.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10236.jpg

This will transfer the chalk mark to the flap / jet

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10238.jpg

Add one seam all the way round and 1" (50mm) at the top.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10239.jpg

Cut the lining the same as the pocket flap

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10241.jpg

Baste the pocket flap to the lining adding ease. This will ensure that when the flap is turned, the lining will not show. Press, machine stitch, trim around outside, turn, baste and press. Measure the width the flap is to finish and mark a line.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10244.jpg

Lay the flap on the forepart with the line of the flap on the forepart pocket line. Mark the ends of the pocket flap on the forepart.

Make a mark 1/8" (3mm) back at the rear end of the pocket. This will effectively make the pocket smaller than the flap which will ensure a snug fit.

coffee time, more to follow shortly
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10247.jpg

Lay the pocket stay under the forepart and baste in place

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10248.jpg

Baste the jetting either side of the pocket line and machine stitch making sure the stitch lines are parallel and the ends are straight.

TIP: Stitch the top jet, then turn over to stitch the bottom jet, mark the pocket ends. When the bottom jet is sewn you will be able to eye up the the two stitch lines.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10249.jpg

Cut pocket and mitre at each end,taking care to cut into the corners. If you mitre past the stitch line you will have a hole in the forepart.

Press both seams open

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10250.jpg

baste both jets and close the pocket mouth as shown

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10251.jpg

With matching silk thread, prick stitch through the bottom jet only. The top will be secured when the flap goes in

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10252.jpg

Stitch the pocket bag to the bottom jet

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10253.jpg

Press a fold in the pocket bag 1 1/2" (37.5mm) up from the hem line of the jacket. Cut the top of the pocket bag level with the top jet.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10254.jpg

Lay the facing, face side up level with the top of the pocket bag. Now turn down the facing and stitch to the pocketing so that when it is turned back up, no stitching is seen. Press

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10255.jpg

Turn the mitres inside and Stitch the pocket bag closed, starting at one mitre and finishing at the other.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10256.jpg

Trim pocket bag and press

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10257.jpg

Place flap into pocket mouth and baste so that pocket flap mark sits at the bottom of the jet, baste through the top jet to hold in place. There will be a little fullness in the flap. Press the pocket on the pocket bag side. The fullness in the flap should now be gone.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10258.jpg

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:48:46 AM

Pull forepart back and stitch through all layers. This stitch will secure the flap and top jet

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10259.jpg

Trim the top of the pocket in layers

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10260.jpg

Finished pocket
The Breast (Welt) Pocket.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10261.jpg

Mark pocket

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10262.jpg

Lay cloth face side up with grain, stripes or checks matching

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10263.jpg

Allow 1 seam at the bottom,- 1 1.2" (37.5 mm) at each side - 3/4" (18 mm) at top
and 1" welt

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10264.jpg

Lay pocket stay under and baste in place

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10265.jpg

This should be done with linen, however i do not have any so i am using selisia,
cut to size of welt piece (linen would be cut differently)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10266.jpg

Baste top pocketing and welt piece, mark pocket, ending the top 1/4" (6 mm)shorter
at each end

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10267.jpg

Stitch and cut pocket, mitre to the lower stitch line

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10268.jpg

Press open both seams, pull top pocketing through and mark the welt width 1" (25 mm)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10269.jpg

Baste the welt

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10270.jpg

Stitch the lower pocketing onto the welt end. press open seam. Slash the pocketing at both sides to just past the pocket end, aiming at the centre of the pocket opening

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10271.jpg

Pull pocketing through, turn ends to match chalk marks and press

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10272.jpg

Now the tricky part. holding the top horizontal, match the crease of the welt end with the chalk mark and stitch down into the mitre (run one stitch line first, then check the line) tack when ok.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10273.jpg

Cut the ends to a 1/4" (6 mm)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10288.jpg

Prick stitch through the seam using silk thread
Close pocket bag and trim

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10274.jpg

Finished pocket. The pocket ends will be hand sewn when the canvases are installed
Installing the canvas

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10313.jpg

Lay the canvas on the workbench chest felt down. Lay the forepart on the canvas matching the lapel roll line of the forepart with the roll line mark of the canvas.
TIP: To help line up the roll lines put a pin through the forepart roll line at top middle and bottom, then check the canvas side. The pins should go through the chalk line on the canvas.

With your free hand working in front (the one thats not sewing) smooth the cloth in the direction of the arrows, Be firm but not so firm the cloth distorts.

Starting with the red line: Baste a line 3" (75 mm) down from the centre of the shoulder to an 1" (50 mm)from the hemline.

The brown line is next, then the black line

TIP: When complete, smooth your hand the length of the forepart to just above the hemline baste stitches, if there is excess material between your hand and the baste stitches, remove the basting and start again.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10277.jpg

Turn over and Slash the canvas from under the pocket to the end of the pocket bag

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10278.jpg

lift the pocket bag and place the canvas under. Trim the canvas that sits on top of the pocket

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10279.jpg

cross stitch the canvas to the pocket bag

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10283.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10327.jpg

"D" tack the pocket ends with a prick stitch. Go through all layers

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Jacket%20Project/SDC10290.jpg

Prick stitch the ends of the breast pocket 1/4" (6 mm)
from the pocket end. Go through all layers
Time to cut the collar pattern and get ready for a fitting

The following will form the basis of the collar pattern, which will be refined after the fitting

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10317.jpg

Place the forepart on a piece of stiff paper / card. (i am using heavy grade wallpaper lining, which will do)
with a straight edge, extend the lapel roll line onto the card

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10318.jpg

one seam down from the shoulder mark stitches, extend the shoulder line on to the card

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10319.jpg

Mark the gorge line on to the card, 1" (25 mm) from the end of the lapel, remove the forepart

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10315.jpg

On the back shoulder measure one seam from the neckpoint to the centre back seam on the outside of the line. Note the measurement.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10320.jpg

Transfer the measurement to the card, from the shoulder line up the extended roll line.
(0 - 1)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10321.jpg

Square back 3/4" (18 mm) (1 - 2) transfer measure from 0 -1 to 0 - 2

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10325.jpg

Square both ways at 2

3 - 2 = 1 1/4" (32 mm) (this will be the collar stand)

Add one seam to gorge line marks, to the shoulder, extend to 3. Measure from shoulder to 3 which should now be 1/4" less than the measure taken along the back neck, this allows for when the collar is stretched.

4 - 2 = 1 1/2" (37.5 mm) (this will be the collar fall)square back to shoulder line
From 0. Measure 1 3/4" (43 mm) along the fall shoulder line and mark

At the mark 1" (50 mm)from the end of the lapel, Square from the new gorge line and measure 1 1/4" (32 mm) shape the fall line as shown

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/collar%20pattern/SDC10326.jpg

Shape roll line as shown and cut pattern
Preparing the under collar

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10328.jpg

Collar canvas and collar Melton should both be cut on the bias

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10331.jpg

Cut collar Melton, adding one seam at the centre line and 1/2" at the fall line

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10332.jpg

Machine stitch centre line seam

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10334.jpg

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:49:41 AM

Use pattern to Mark roll line on melton
Lay collar melton on canvas and baste just above roll line. Machine stitch roll line finishing 1/2 (12.5 mm) from each end. Trim canvas.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10335.jpg

Mark a line 1/2" (12.5 mm)from the edge of canvas all round

Pad stitch melton to canvas, within the marked lines, Roll collar whilst stitching

Trim canvas 1/8" (6 mm) behind Melton, along stand edge

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10336.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10337.jpg

Stretching the stand

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10338.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10339.jpg

stretching the fall

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10340.jpg

Turn roll line and press

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/under%20coller/SDC10341.jpg

For normal shoulders this distance from the centre of the roll line is 2" (50 mm)
For sloped shoulders 1 1/2" (37.5 mm)
For square shoulders 2 3/4" (68 mm)

Trim canvas flush with melton - Under collar complete
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10284.jpg

Baste Silesia strips from mark stitch of vent to vent inlay edge

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10347.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10346.jpg

Baste 3/4" (18 mm) Silesia strips to back scye, adding ease to the cloth, press away ease from the side with the strips, press no more than 1 1/2" (37.5 mm)on to the cloth.
(This will "stay" the back scye and also place ease in the shoulder blade area)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10285.jpg

First baste the side seams and vents, then turn and top baste over the side seam.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10381.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10286.jpg

Turn and baste front inlays and around hem.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10292.jpg

Baste shoulders adding fullness to the back shoulder (adds ease to the shoulder blade area)

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10293.jpg

Press away fullness, press no more than 1 1/2" (37.5 mm) on to the cloth

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10294.jpg

Turn and top baste the shoulder.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10295.jpg

Smooth and baste the front neck.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10360.jpg

Chalk mark the neck.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10344.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10345.jpg

Baste the under collar to the neckline, start at the centre back seam, add slight ease to the under collar 1 1/2" (37.5 mm) either side of the shoulder seam.
Stop at the lapel roll line, lay the lapel and collar flat and check the lapel rolls correctly, hold collar in position, turn and baste.
Baste the other side the same.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10348.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10349.jpg

Hold the shoulder pad in the arm hole with the centre of the pad on the shoulder seam, the ends of the shoulder pad should be on the edge of the cloth, any excess protruding from the shoulder will be trimmed off.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10350.jpg

Hold pad in position, turn and baste to chest canvas.

Baste in sleeves, check "setting in sleeves" by Schneidergot in the apprentice thread.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10372.jpg

When the sleeves are basted in, smooth the cloth towards the armhole and baste up against the sleeve seam.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/baste%20fitting/SDC10374.jpg

Baste the back of the shoulder pad.

Cutting and preparing the facings

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10387.jpg

The front of the facing must be on the straight grain, if there is a check or stripe, it must run parallel with the front of the facing.

Lay the forepart on the facing 1/2" (12.5 mm) back from the front of the facing from the bottom of the lapel line. The lapel of the forepart should lay back further.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10389.jpg

Mark the bottom of the lapel roll line and the waist

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10390.jpg

With finger holding the waist, pivot the top of the forepart until it is 1/2" (12.5 mm) back from the front of the facing. Mark the top of the roll line.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10392.jpg

Add 1/2" (12.5 mm) at the top of the facing and trim. Remove forepart.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10393.jpg

Mark 3" (75 mm) at the top part of the facing and 5 1/2" (137.5 mm) to the bottom part, join the two lines, then curve above and below where the lines meet to shape the facing

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10394-1.jpg

Lay the facing on the pressing table and move the top part of the facing back, this should move excess cloth behind the middle section of the lapel roll line.
with the steam iron, starting with a large arc, gradually getting smaller, shrink away the excess cloth.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10395.jpg

check with the forepart until there is 1/2" (12.5 mm) of facing in front of the forepart all the way down the front. There should be no excess cloth back of the facing

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/preparing%20facings/CopyofSDC10396.jpg

This shows how the facing has been shaped.

Next time you are out and about and you see a striped / checked jacket, check if the stripe / check runs parallel with the edge of the lapel,(sign of a quality garment) or if it runs off the edge of the lapel.
Padstitching the lapels and taping

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10426.jpg

On the left hand forepart (the one with the breast pocket) add a 1 1/2" (37.5mm) strip of selisia for the buttonhole stay stitch around the edge of the selisia attaching to the canvas

Add a piece of selisia between the canvas and cloth under the lapels 4" (100m) up from the roll line and 1/2" (12.5mm) behind. To add "body to the lapel.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10427.jpg

Mark 1/2" (12.5mm) from the edge

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10428.jpg

Padstitch the lapels, rolling the lapel as you padstitch. At the top corner of the lapel change direction as shown rolling the lapel in that direction.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10429.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10430.jpg

After padstitching the lapel should roll back. Press lapel

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10431.jpg

Trim back the canvas 1/2" (12.5mm) all the way down the forepart

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10432.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10433.jpg

Cotton twill tape which is soaked and dried with the iron is normally used to tape the fronts. I have cut 3/4" (18mm) bias strips of selisia for taping the front.

Laying the tape 3/16" (4mm) back from the edge of the forepart. Baste the tape from the lapel tip down the forepart and along the top of the hem placing 1/4" (6mm) ease at the bottom of the lapel roll line.
If there is a cut away at the front (single Breasted) baste the tape slightly tight round the cut away, which will make that part of the forepart roll towards the body.

Mitre the corner of the tape at lapel tip.

Hand stitch along the inside edge of the tape catching the canvas, at the hem, stitch both sides of the tape being careful that stitching will not show through on the face side.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10433.jpg

For the roll line tape i have used a 1" (25mm) strip of selisia (straight grain)

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:50:19 AM

Basting through all layers from the top of the roll line, place a "lockstitch" 3" (75mm) down. From there, place ease in the lapel and "lockstich" in place for the top two thirds of the lapel, ending the tape 4" from the end of the roll line.

Padstitch the roll line tape.

Leave approx 2" (50mm) of tape above the top of the lapel, which will be attached to the under collar later.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Taping/SDC10436.jpg

Lay the lapel hanging over the edge of sleeveboard / pressing table and press
Cutting the body linings

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10397.jpg

Cut a small notch on the facing 5" (125mm) down from the shoulder

Lay the facings on the lining, pin and chalk mark back edge of facing

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10398.jpg

Lay the forepart on the facing, 1/2" (12.5mm) back from the front edge of the facing.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10399.jpg

Allow 2" (50mm) above the shoulder - 3/4" (18mm) around the armscye - 1" (25mm) below the hem line. Cut the side body seam the same as the forepart.
Cut The forepart lining, leave the facing edge pinned for the moment
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10400.jpg

Place a straight edge 2 1/2" (62.5mm) down from the bottom of the armscye, towards the facing at a slight downward angle. Mark a line 1" (25mm) into the facing. This is the front of the in breast pocket line.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10401.jpg

Add 1 seam to the front of the lining and cut

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10405.jpg

Lay the forepart on the lining and cut around the side body. Allow 3/4" (18mm) around the armscye - 1/2" (12.5mm) at the side seam - 1" (50mm) below the hem line. Cut the side body seam the same as the forepart.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10403.jpg

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10402.jpg

Lay the back on to the lining with the centre back seam on the fold of the lining, Transfer the centre back seam on to the lining. Allow 3/4" (18mm) above the neck line - 1/2" (12.5mm) Above the shoulder - 3/4" (18mm) at the armscye - 1/2" (12.5mm) at the side seam - 1" (50mm) below the hem line
Cut the lining

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Cutting%20the%20body%20lining/CopyofSDC10404.jpg

Cut the in breast pockets - Pocket bag 9" X 8" (225mm X 200mm) - Pocket stay 8" X 2" (200mm X 50mm) Pocket jets 8" x 3" (200mm x 75mm) - pocket facing 8" x 4" (200mm x 100m)
Preparing the body linings

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10409.jpg

Using the Breast pocket mark on the facing, cut a piece of cloth to be added to the facing. Mark the length of the inside breast pocket and cut width 2" (50mm) either side of the breast pocket mark, and 1" (25mm) to the back of the pocket mark, add 1 seam to the front. Machine stitch cloth piece to facing.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10410.jpg

Baste pocket stay under facing.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10411.jpg

I have used 3/4 (18mm) strips of fusing to back the pocket jets, alternate backing can be used.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10412.jpg
Fold and press pocket jets

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10414.jpg

Mark a line 1/2" (12.5mm) either side of the pocket line and at pocket ends. Lay pocket bag flat under facing and baste in place.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10415.jpg

Place folded pocket jet against the line marked 1/2" (12.5mm) above the pocket line and stitch a machine foot width from the one marked pocket end to the other. Do the same with the other pocket jet on the lower line.
Cut and mitre the pocket the same as the jetted pocket on the forepart. Turn and press.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10418.jpg

After turning and pressing. Fold and press the lower jet and machine stitch to pocket bag.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10421.jpg

Machine stitch facing to top end of pocket bag and press. Fold and stitch pocket bag as the jetted pocket on the forepart.

With this type of in breast pocket, it would now be time to put the facings on and hand stitch the lining on to the facing. However this jacket will never see the light of day, so i am going to cheat. :Big Grin:

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10423.jpg

Baste lining to facing. At the top end where the notch is, place a 1" (25mm) pleat, with the pleat facing down on the right side.
This pleat is to take some of the stess when the inside breast pocket is used.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10424.jpg

Machine stitch the lining to the facing. Stop 1 1/2" (37.5mm) either side of the pocket. Turn, press and baste around pocket.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10425.jpg

Cut and mitre the lining to match the pocket, turn and hand stitch to pocket.

These pockets turned out very sloppy, (dark grey hand stitching does not help, on this colour lining) in hindsight this was probably the wrong method to chose. At the end of this project i will show another method seperately.

Machine stitch side body lining to forepart lining.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10462.jpg

The back lining centre seam is stitched at the top, waist and bottom, the stitching is run off into the fold of the lining.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10464.jpg

Turn and press the back centre seam, due to the way it is stitched, when pressed a pleat will form at the top and bottom of the centre back seam. This allows for horizontal ease when the jacket is worn.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Making%20the%20linings/SDC10465.jpg

Lay the back lining on the cloth back, with centre back seams aligning. Baste back lining to cloth back adding ease to the lining whilst basting
Installing the facings

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10438.jpg

Lay the forepart on the facing, 1/2" (12.5mm) behind the front of the facing.
Starting at the lapel tip, baste down. Add a little ease in the facing either side of the end of the lapel roll line. Continue basting to 2" (50mm) past the last button position.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10440.jpg

Turn the bottom of the forepart over the facing and complete the basting round to the end of the facing.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10441.jpg

On the facing side at the top of the lapel, add a small "bubble" of ease and baste.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10442.jpg

Make sure lining is clear at the bottom of the facing stitch line.
Machine stitch on the forepart side, when stitching round the lapel peak, slightly round off the point.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10443.jpg

Remove basting stitches and trim back the facing seam inlay 1/8" (3mm) wider than the forepart inlay.
Cut across the corner of the peak to 1/8" (3mm) from the point

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10444.jpg

Press open all the seam

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10445.jpg

At the lapel peak on the forepart, "draw in" the seam inlay by using a back stitch to control the inlay around the peak, and then Stitch the inlay to the lapel canvas

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10446.jpg

The facing seam inlay is now stitched over to the lapel canvas at the lapel peak

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10447.jpg

The same control of the seam inlays is carried out at the bottm of the forepart.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10448.jpg

Turn and baste the hem to just past the end of the canvas and cross stitch

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10449.jpg

Turn and baste the lapel keeping the seam slightly inside so as not to be seen from the front, first at the edge and then a second row of basting behind.

[http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10450.jpg

Now turn and baste the bottom keeping the seam slightly in toward the lining so as not to be seen from the front.

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10451.jpg

Press the forepart fronts

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10452.jpg

Lay the forepart on the worbench with the lapel hanging off the edge and baste just behind the roll line

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10453.jpg

Leave the lapel hanging over the workbench and baste the facing just behind the lining seam

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10454.jpg

Baste diagonally across from the lapel peak towards the facing

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10455.jpg

Turn the lining back and stitch the facing seam to the canvas to just below the pocket bag and from the top of the pocket upwards

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20facings/SDC10456.jpg

Turn lining back and cross stitch the corner of the pocket to the canvas
Finalising the lapels

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10458.jpg

With a straight edge lined up with the top of the lapel, extend the line to the lapel break line

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10459.jpg

Mark the gorge line on the facing

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10460.jpg

Slash the facing up to the gorge line 1 1/2" (37.5mm) past the lapel break line

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/Lapel/SDC10461.jpg

Turn and baste the lapel and gorge to the slash
Installing the linings

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10467.jpg

baste the lining to the forepart adding a little ease at the waist area

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10468.jpg

Add a strip of selisia to both forepart and back vent line, leaving 1/2" (12.5mm)of cloth at the rear

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10469.jpg

Stitch to the cloth, taking care not to show stitching on the face side

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10470.jpg

Baste and machine stitch side seams, press open

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10472.jpg

place forepart over back baste vent in position, press over inlay on forepart at the top of the vent, turn rear edge of forepart vent, baste and stitch edge to down to hemline

http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz107/jukes1234/installing%20the%20linings/SDC10473.jpg

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:50:49 AM

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 01:53:03 AM

That's the lot. As mentioned at the outset, I arrived a few years after it was done and really wanted to see the process. I imagine savin' the page will collect and secure the links to use later will work just fine. Once the origin folder fails, the wayback machine has them. Best rgds.

Schneiderfrei · September 20, 2023, 09:57:46 AM

That's a labour of love there Steelmill. Many thanks.

Steelmillal · September 20, 2023, 10:38:51 PM

Sir, yes Sir. Jukes/Sator did the work. Late last night I found a folder with all the photos. Guess I did pull them down already/really wanted to see the process. It's 60mB though, so other public access needs decided. I'll sort something soon.

posaune · September 21, 2023, 06:36:31 AM

WOW....... What a work. I hope I find the Time and print myself a Little booklet from all that stuff
Thanks, steelmillal
lg Posaune

Steelmillal · September 21, 2023, 08:03:36 PM

Ma'am, you're welcome Ma'am. Y'all gonna make remember how long that took, hehe.

Ought'a'be able to highlight cutNpasteNsave, too. Lookin at archyve, but need'a good think'n yet.

jukes · May 07, 2024, 05:48:57 PM

Thanks, That's a hell of a lot of work to reinstate my old project, unfortunately i deleted all the files on my pc which i could have sent over to you.

Steelmillal · May 09, 2024, 02:37:45 AM

Heeey! Way cool to hear from you! Yeah, that project was down even when I arrived 6/7 years ago for one of those photoboard paywall changes that wiped so much. Was very informative to see step by step. Learned a lot and much appreciated the effort by both you and Sator to document for we newbees.

Guess time to archive on Archive. I'll start an account. Best, AL

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