Some beautiful draftings about men's coat,I want to konw the name of the books!

Started by Dmm890824, January 23, 2023, 03:13:34 PM

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Schneiderfrei

Hi Dmm890824,

They show some beautiful styling. I especially love the different pocketing styles.

They don't look like the typical Tailor and Cutter offerings.  I think they are American.

G

Schneider sind auch Leute

TTailor

They look vaguely familiar but I cannot come up with an identification yet…..maybe from pre ww1 to the 1920’s
Hmmmm

Steelmillal

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on January 23, 2023, 07:41:23 PM
  I think they are American.

They are if they came from Kentucky. Them's women's riding coats. See the skirts and front? Patrol seams allover.
Where'd they turn up, Dmm890824?

SO_tailor

It's definitely a draft from either the 1910's to the early 1920's, you can tell by the amount of the overlapping hip. This is definitely an American draft, because it's drafted to the left while British coats are drafted to the right. As an American myself I think this may be either an old Progresssive tailor draft, a draft from Regal's, or from the Master Designers system. The photos below are from the MDS and a 1930's PT draft, which while the latter isn't 1920's, PT had very similar layouts throughout it's many draft designs.

(Master Designers (early 1920s))

(PT 1930's)
—Solomon/Sol

SO_tailor

Quote from: Dmm890824 on January 23, 2023, 03:13:34 PM



Ok seeing the last photo I'm very confident this is a progressive tailor draft, if you compare it to the draft I showed above/
—Solomon/Sol

SO_tailor

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on January 23, 2023, 07:41:23 PM
Hi Dmm890824,

They show some beautiful styling. I especially love the different pocketing styles.

They don't look like the typical Tailor and Cutter offerings.  I think they are American.

G

Your right Grahm! They are without doubt American. You can tell by which "side" the coat is drafted. British tailors typically draft to the right while American tailors draft to the left. This is because Americans draft by the "divisions" side of the square, while the British draft the coats from the "Numerical" side.
—Solomon/Sol

Hendrick



Hi, the drawings are typical for Harry Simons... The book must be something along the lines of "designing sack coats dress coats and vests" or thereabout.  I will try to find it, check back later.

Cheers, Hendrick

Schneiderfrei

Quote from: SO_tailor on January 24, 2023, 09:20:43 AM
Your right Grahm! They are without doubt American. You can tell by which "side" the coat is drafted. British tailors typically draft to the right while American tailors draft to the left. This is because Americans draft by the "divisions" side of the square, while the British draft the coats from the "Numerical" side.

That's very good to know, thank you.  I had no idea why it was so.

G
Schneider sind auch Leute

SO_tailor

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on January 24, 2023, 10:48:05 AM
Quote from: SO_tailor on January 24, 2023, 09:20:43 AM
Your right Grahm! They are without doubt American. You can tell by which "side" the coat is drafted. British tailors typically draft to the right while American tailors draft to the left. This is because Americans draft by the "divisions" side of the square, while the British draft the coats from the "Numerical" side.

That's very good to know, thank you.  I had no idea why it was so.

G
Your welcome! :D
—Solomon/Sol

Steelmillal

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/original-pre-1929-historical-pattern-collection--524387950337387359/

The above was on a saved page.

Hendrick nailed the title. https://archive.org/details/designingsackcoa00simo/page/n11/mode/2up ..Too old for moderns. People look at me enough wearing a 'normie' suit or tweed. Maybe if I had 'strechty goo' trousers on instead ...  ;)



SO_tailor

Quote from: Steelmillal on January 26, 2023, 10:21:07 PM
Hendrick nailed the title. https://archive.org/details/designingsackcoa00simo/page/n11/mode/2up ..Too old for moderns. People look at me enough wearing a 'normie' suit or tweed. Maybe if I had 'strechty goo' trousers on instead ...  ;)
That's relatable, as someone who wears "old fashioned" clothing.
—Solomon/Sol

SO_tailor

Quote from: Hendrick on January 24, 2023, 09:39:04 AM


Hi, the drawings are typical for Harry Simons... The book must be something along the lines of "designing sack coats dress coats and vests" or thereabout.  I will try to find it, check back later.

Cheers, Hendrick

Your right Hendrick these are photos from Harry Simons! I never heard about the chap's books before, defiantly have some pretty good drafts IMO.
—Solomon/Sol

SO_tailor

Just realized this but the drafts from Simons are pretty similar to the way some of the T&C drafts in terms of system and construction, especially in the back.
—Solomon/Sol

TTailor

In spite of a decision to limit adding to my cache of books, I think I may try to download the book and get it printed for reference.
The styles of this time are quite interesting.
Beautiful drawings!