Wool double cloth

[Philipdep]

Hi all! As it's getting to be quite cold in my part of the world, I'm wanting to make an overcoat, but I'm still searching for fabric. I found some nice double cloth. I've never worked with double cloth before and I'm not sure if it's any different from working with a regular coating cloth. I know it's essentially two cloths that have been woven/stitched, but is it suitable for tailoring purposes, or should I avoid it? Is there a warm alternative? Thanks!

[pfaff260]

It's beautiful stuff, but a lot of work.
https://thepatternline.com/double-fabrics/

[posaune]

If for a real good wintercoat - i would not use double cloth. It is way heavy and a pain to work with. But a nice experience in tailoring! Much hand sewing.
I, more on the practical side of live-  would take a nice wool with a good drape (merino, cachmire or else - good quality) and put a layer of thinsulate inside- which stops the wind and rain.
lg
posaune

[peterle]

The method used in the linked project is undoubtely the most beautiful method.
But Not all Double face fabrics can be seperated.
The typical duffles ( plain outer fabrics, checkered inner fabrics) are very offen unlined or just half lined ( for a better glide) and the seams are edged with satin or lining strips.

[Philipdep]

Thank you all for the info! Perhaps this is a silly question, but can double cloth be made up like a regular overcoat with chest piece and separate facing, or is it too bulky?

[peterle]

I would say it depends on your fabric and the coat you have in mind. I think the issues are is less the chestpiece than details like (welted) pockets, darts ecc.

[Hendrick]

If you want to construct the coat in a normal technique, I would steer away from double cloth. Apart from the problems as mentioned by Peterle, double cloth lacks the natural drape one would expect from a coat weight. If you cannot splice and edge a splittable fabric then I would stay away from it. The duffel fabrics that are double wovens but non splittable (like Moorbrook and the like, (called "tagliato"in Italy) are fine for loose duffels and the like  but not for razor sharp precision tailoring. Note that brushed woolens ("velours  de laine"in French or "velluto di lana"in Italian are fluffier and more drapy while "drap de laine" or meltons are more felted and less drapy (think military coats). A special grade of meltons may be used "raw cut" or "taglio vivo", where the fabric is felted to a level that seams can be left unfinished.

[Philipdep]

Good to know. It makes sense, two thickness of heavy cloth would be impossible to achieve a precise finish. It's difficult enough with some overcoatings. Thank you all for the responses.

[posaune]

i stumbled over a video showing lengthly what work it is. it is russian origin and very detailed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZmGUNKpgCbc
sideseam and corners
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5yIagp-8xQ
Sleeve and collar
have patience! it is worth your time
lg
posaune

[Hendrick]

The splitting is done in a quite rudimentary way here, with a lot of material lost. There is a small tool that holds a cutting knife and can be calibrated to the thickness of the fabriand the with of the seam value. When the fabric sits flar on the cuttingf table, the cutter slides this tool along the fabric and splits the exact with desired. I must have one somewhere, with emphasis on where... These things are also made cheaply in china, holding a rasor blade.


Cheers, Hendrick