Regency Tail Coat Collar

[Tikiguayo]

Does anyone have experience with Regency era men's tailoring? I am debating a redraft of the colar.

[TTailor]

Yes, I do.
Can you show your collar pattern pieces?
Eventually you will have to clip the neckline where the lapel starts.

[Tikiguayo]

Not sure what happened to the image I posted but here is my attempt at making a combined pattern from the 2 original pattern pieces--stand and collar.


After I padstitched the under collar


The complete collar was not bad, but the dark under collar and the visible under folded fabric while a nice touch on a bespoke jacket, looks like a mistake here

[TTailor]

I would separate the top fabric into two pieces, stand and fall, and also use a lining.
The lining could be Silesia or a linen.

When I have made them, I do not make them a one piece.
The stand is covered by the coat fabric on the outside, leaving a fabric seam allowance along all the sides, the seam allowance on the top edge is sewn to the seam allowance of the fall, then that allowance is cross stitched down to the inside of the stand, which is then finished on the inside of the neck with the lining.

[Tikiguayo]

Thank you.
Last night I went back to the collar pattern pieces (the original from the store bought pattern) and create this one using a softer interfacing. It sits OK but isn't as crisp I would have liked. Maybe after a good pressing...

[Johnnyincubbias]

Hi
Love the workmanship on this. Finding how this style of Napoleonic high stand collar was drafted has eluded me for many years. It is not a collar type typically shown in any drafting or cutting books. I am wondering a few things about it though. Do you have on hand a cutting method for drafting this type of collar, where I can cut this type myself with some sort of accuracy on the standard coat block?; and I am curious as to why the different collar types have different neck line shaping. Ie. on some collars of standing types, the neckline from shoulder point to cf is arched pointing downwards in a singular line while others are curved upwards from the baseline from shoulder point to cf. the collar here you drafted is some what wavy from cf to cb. Is there a particular reason behind why some collars are curved upwards, others downwards, yet others like this and sort of wavy?  And with this can this collar draft be one piece and keep the same style?

[Johnnyincubbias]

Hi
Love the workmanship on this. Finding how this style of Napoleonic high stand collar was drafted has eluded me for many years. It is not a collar type typically shown in any drafting or cutting books. I am wondering a few things about it though. Do you have on hand a cutting method for drafting this type of collar, where I can cut this type myself with some sort of accuracy on the standard coat block?; and I am curious as to why the different collar types have different neck line shaping. Ie. on some collars of standing types, the neckline from shoulder point to cf is arched pointing downwards in a singular line while others are curved upwards from the baseline from shoulder point to cf. the collar here you drafted is some what wavy from cf to cb. Is there a particular reason behind why some collars are curved upwards, others downwards, yet others like this and sort of wavy?  And with this can this collar draft be one piece and keep the same style?

Another question I have been meaning to ask is, if there is any way/method you may know of on how to find the correct shape of a collar from a photograph of a completed garment, or design?


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[Tikiguayo]

Sorry for the late reply. As a beginner I have similar questions. Maybe one of the more seasoned tailors here can help.