Nice and important book to have

Started by Laurent, January 09, 2022, 07:49:07 AM

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Laurent

Good evening everyone,
I just start studying tailoring and I would really like to buy or download some books.
Do you have some of the best book for pattern cutting, making, rules,...
Also if you have the link to download some pdf or if you are selling/giving some it would be great.
Also, i am in london for my trainning, if you know some nice place to find info or talk it is great  (except savile row of course).
Have a nice day.

My apologie for the bad english.

Gerry

M Rohr's 1948 edition of pattern drafting:

https://vbook.pub/download/patternmaking-mrohr-1948-x256vk58yqop

The method doesn't really start until page 5. It's easier to understand if you've read Don McCunn's How to Make Sewing Patterns, which is an evolution of Rohr's method. These are the most intuitive books I've come across on cutting, and combined you can cover a lot of ground.

I don't use the trouser drafts, but the basic method holds for many tops and can be adapted for coats. Neither book is the holy grail (you'll still need to look at old tailoring books on drafting to fill in some gaps), but together they provide a good foundation (IMO).   

Schneiderfrei

Gerry, your link is for the DAMA womens and misses version, is that what you meant to post?

What topics are you looking for in particular?

There are books on this forum that you can download, also many many articles:

A very respected book is the 1962 edition of Carlin.  You can download it here - http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=341.0

Modern Outfitter is a very useful book to have in all respects - here are the three volumes

https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.461004

https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.461011

https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.461017

Volume 1 in another version - https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.461017

Also check here - http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?board=19.0  and there are three more pages of these pattern drafts.

here are construction posts _ http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?board=26.0

have a look and post any questions youmight have.

G

Schneider sind auch Leute

Laurent

Thank you both of you for your answer.
It is a good start.
I am looking for any kind of book.
It can be books like "dressing the man" for rules.
It can be books about pattern cutting/drafting".
It can be books about making.
It can be books about the history of elegance and sartorial art...

Do you know where I can buy some of these books? The PDF version is good but having it on paper is better (in my opinion).
I find some on ebay but they are either expensives or already sell/preowned.

Also, are some of you in London. If yes is it possible to meet one day so I can learn infos or history about you?

Have a nice day.

Gerry

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on January 09, 2022, 05:09:38 PM
Gerry, your link is for the DAMA womens and misses version, is that what you meant to post?

Yes, I meant to post it. Granted it's aimed at women's garments, but the method for determining shoulder angle is solid. Likewise collar and lapel drafts. As I mentioned, it makes more sense if one reads Don McCunn's book first (which gives more detailed instruction on what to leave out/change when drafting for men).

Laurent, unfortunately original copies are expensive. I simply printed the pages that I found most useful (certainly not the whole book!). Don McCunn's book is a good place to start for beginners. I can only reiterate, it won't make you a master cutter (you'll still need to learn from other sources/people) but it's a solid foundation.

Schneiderfrei

That's cool, I just wondered.  There is a lot to learn in men's tailoring from women's tailoring theory.

Massschnitte u. Passform - Guido Hofenbitzer is a brilliant book, it's in German.

G
Schneider sind auch Leute

Gerry

Thank you for the recommendation Schneiderfrei, I'll add that to my list of books. Although I only speak a little German, I understand more (as is often the case), so can usually make sense of articles etc (with an online dictionary on standby!).  :)

Yes, plenty to learn from women's tailoring. Likewise draping. Although I haven't done any draping myself, I've watched old video courses uploaded to youtube, plus more recent ones. They filled in a lot of gaps as to why darts and seams are used where they are; and have influenced the way I approach drafts.

One never stops learning, it seems.

TTailor


https://www.amazon.ca/Tailoring-tailleur-Fashion-Process-2014-01-05/dp/B00OPMIBVE
This is a useful book and it is in French and English.

https://www.esmod-editions.com/PBCPPlayer.asp?ID=1719694&PGFLngID=1
Vous pouvez regarder quelques livres ici

There are many very old books on tailoring available on internet archive, in many languages.

https://archive.org/search.php?query=subject%3A%22tailoring%22



Schneiderfrei

Gentleman by Bernhard Roetzel  is a very good book to have regarding rules.

Don't think that the best books will be brand new.  Most of the very best books are wellout of print.  Although, to keep things in a modern style/context, don't look back past the 1950's.
Schneider sind auch Leute

Greger

A couple of books come to mind. Don't remember there names. One is about pockets. Lots of pockets. Another small book about some hand stitches, repairing worn clothes, how to make trousers, vests,lounge coat and frock coat. Believe the Trousers are fall fronts and before creases existed.

Laurent

Thank you for all your answer, it is very nice.
I have a lot to read for the moment.
Also, do some of you have a pdf or sell these books?
-Cutter parctical guide Gentlemen's garments.
-The science of pattern instruction for garments maker (Poole).
If yes please let me know I've been looking for theses for ages.

Have a nice day. Sorry for the late reply.