Converting a Yoke Seam to a Center Back Seam

[krudsma]

Hi all!
First off, I want to thank everyone on this forum for their patient help and expertise - I was finally able to make some perfectly fitting shirts thanks to all of your tips on the sloper I was working on.
I'm interested to try making some shirts that lack a yoke. I have a few vintage flannels that I love, both of which have no yoke, just a full back piece and two fronts. I have a pretty round back, so I think I'll need to have at least one seam to take care of the shaping. Here's what I came up with, let me know if this looks right:

Current back and yoke pieces:


Ease removed from back:


Aligned at the armscye and back balance:


Trued up:


I would have to figure out how to make up for the removal of the back pleats so I would still have a good range of motion - I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on this as well.
Am I on the right track here?

Thanks!
- Steve

PS - Some pics of my beloved vintage Big Mac flannel

[theresa in tucson]

A center back seam would definitely help with the rounded back.  Another common way to adjust for back variations is the shoulder dart.  This was much more common in vintage women's fitted patterns.  You don't see it too much in today's patterns.

[posaune]

krudsma, you cutted away some fabric over the centerback if you do it that way. You must open the CB seam
look here:

or do a dart as Theresa wrote:



lg posaune

[peterle]

When You do it like in Posaune´s second pic the shoulder dart gets nearly invisible when placed right (it´s middle line strictly vertical centered between two checks) the advantage is, you need no center back seam (wich is unusually in men´s shirts).

When using a not so dense material like flanell you could also divide the dart amount into three smaller darts (two shoulder darts and one towards the sleeve seam) wich you ease in instead of sewing them.

When you do it like in your post, the back gets to short over the shoulder blades ( for the amount the pattern pieces overlap) and will cause theses folds starting at the shoulder blades you can see in the back pic of the check shirt.

[krudsma]

Thank you both, that's very helpful. I'm intrigued by the idea of doing multiple darts and just easing them in, I'll have to try that. Do you have any photos of a well executed shoulder dart in menswear? The only examples I'm able to find are womenswear.

[peterle]

Shirt without   yoke to keep the stripes  intact. When  you look closely, you see the stripe  continues over the dart without step because  the dart is strictly  vertical  to the horizontal stripes.

[krudsma]

Very clever! Thanks for the example, I will definitely give it a try.

[Schneiderfrei]

I agree, well done.