Austrian Jacket (Trachten) Help

[Voet]

I am making a men's traditional tailored Austrian jacket (trachten). Can anyone advise me on how to construct the front canvas?  Since there will not be a lapel and roll line, should I enlarge the shield?  Or should the canvas be made the same as it would for a suit or sport coat?

Any help will be appreciated.

[TTailor]

For a coat or jacket without a lapel, I would enlarge the shield.  The reason I recommend this is because over time, the edge area of the shield will tend to want to fold there because of the difference in the underlayers.

I'm sure there is an official way documented somewhere, would love to see it.

[Voet]

Thank you so much, TTailor. I really appreciate your reply. This was my instinct as well. 

I did find a pattern from a German company for making different styles of traditional Bavarian jackets for men, but most commercial patterns I have seen do not adequately cover the internal construction that a tailor would use. 

Her is the link to that pattern: https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/pattern-making-traditional-bavarian-jackets-for-men/