Tailoring from 3D AI Measurements

[SEWise]

Hi Guys! First post here. I am here to learn and soak it all in. Firstly, I would like to learn about the difficulties in tailoring based purely off numerical measurements provided. Please scroll below the "Questions" section for EXample.

Questions:

1) Is there enough information provided to do the alterations in this example?

2) Can this be done by an apprentice?

3) How much more time does this take than pinning a person live?

4) Do you measure the clothing and compare it to the body measurements to determine slim fit, regular fit, loose fit? I imagine each fit has a different tolerance that can be numerically calculated?

5) What other considerations should I consider for this to work?

EX:
Customer comes in and drops off shirt and pants with the following notes:

Shirt alterations:
Slim waist
Shorten cuffs
Change buttons (12 buttons)
Change tucked to un-tucked
Monogram

Pants alterations:
Taper (Slim fit)
Hem up (ankle)
Adjust waist
Adjust rise

AI Measurements provided:
Height
inseam
hips
low waist
waist
bust
neck
shoulder span
arm
ankle
calf
knee
thigh
under breast
armhole
biceps
elbow
wrist
sleeve length
rise
front rise

[posaune]

If it was a new customer I would send him away. You have to have par ex. the exact definition how big a slim waist is in his eyes. He should say p.ex. make the waist 2 cm smaller or the hem circ of the pants 4 cm smaller but leave the knee circ alone. And you do not see how the alterationed garment will look. If you pin, you can!

1) Is there enough information provided to do the alterations in this example? NO

2) Can this be done by an apprentice? Some of it: change Buttons, Monogram

3) How much more time does this take than pinning a person live?
Altering after this measurements? The alteration may be quicker because they may be simpler as when pinned on the body. But you have to look into the future the moment he comes back and wanted it redone.

4) Do you measure the clothing and compare it to the body measurements to determine slim fit, regular fit, loose fit? I imagine each fit has a different tolerance that can be numerically calculated?
That's so - but  6 cm ease to bust circ maybe be suffiecent to a slim person but tight for a stout person.

5) What other considerations should I consider for this to work?
The customer must write down how much he wanted to take in etc. You must go over it with him step by step. And write a protocol. (your time!)

[TTailor]

Just to add to Posaune's advice,

Measurement are just numbers,  they do not indicate shape, so seeing someone in person helps to know the best way to do the alter.
Two people will have the same hip measurement bu one may have a flat seat, the other a full seat. The specific alterations to make the waist smaller, will be different for each of these figures.

[SEWise]

Thank you for the replies!

EX:

Customer brings you a shirt that is too big around the chest and waist. He wants to tailor those in.

1) Why does it matter if he is tall, fat, short, or skinny?

He has already bought the closest standard fitting shirt to himself.

If he was fat he would not bring in the chest and waist. Even if he did, you have his body measurements for waist and chest. This should tell you that this guy has a bigger belly so we can only take Xcm in. Where as his chest is small, so you can take Xcm in.

If he was fit he would have a larger chest and slimmer waist. So you would only be able to tailor less Xcm on the chest and more Xcm on the waist.

If he was skinny then you could take in more Xcm on the waist and Xcm on the chest.


Since none of these guys above asked for cuff length, shirt length, and shoulder width, then you know that those measurements were fine off the rack and don't need adjusting. 2) Is this a correct assumption, generally? What are the caveats of this condition?

[Hendrick]

Thank you Terry. I couln't agree more with your last post. I did countless fittings in RTW for women on a variety of models and indeed measuements are just numbers... To me, there is a point in fitting where a piece has a certain harmony in it's proportions and I think that working too much "to the body" in a garment will, at one point, only amplify it's imperfection. I suppose it is a matter of  compromise...

[posaune]

Ex: The customer brings  a shirt (and he does not try it on that you can see what he talks about) and his measurements done from some measure device
He says it is too big around the chest and waist.
First you have to measure the shirt to compare it to his measurements. There is no standard.
Your customer did not tell where it is too wide if in front or in back.  Because of his stance he needs belly width in front.  How much can you take out at side seam and how much in darts without getting folds?  If too wide at chest - the shoulder will maybe be too long (shirts are cut proportional) and maybe you have to reset the armhole and sleeves a.s.o


If you will be proud off what you do - you have at least to see how the shirt fits. Sure you can do it otherwise  but.....

lg
posaune
(And in your table you should include back width  and bust width - you can better controll what is in back what in front)

[Futura]

He has already bought the closest standard fitting shirt to himself.

Alas, many people have strange ideas about good fit and what fits them well. I have gone back to work at a local department store and the sizes that some customers choose for themselves is mind boggling. I would not trust the fit without seeing it for myself.