Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance

[jeffrey]

Does anyone know if seam allowance is included on the neck and armholes in Stanley Hostek's pattern drafts?
Thanks in advance,
Jeffrey

[Der Zuschneider]

You could assume 7mm.

[jeffrey]

Thank you sir.

[pfaff260]

Traditionaly there is no seam allowance in the neck. Front or back. As in mid back , seam and mid front. They are in shoulder, armhole and side seams.
Maybe this old rundschau draft could tell you this.

[jeffrey]

Thank you pfaff260. This is what I suspected but I am not familiar with this system and did not want to take it for granted. I have a suit order and the client suggested I use this system as they have had many suits made from it in the past. I am guessing that I will figure most of it out in the first fitting.

[Der Zuschneider]

Neck and center back has no seams.

[pfaff260]

Jeffrey, please tell us how it went. I'm very curious how the Hostek draft works. I have his books on sewing and they are realy good.

[jeffrey]

pfaff260,
I will keep you updated.This is a new system for me and hope that I can navigate it easily.
I believe this draft includes 1/4 inch seam allowance everywhere except the neck, front, center back and hems.
I am going give the draft a try this coming weekend so we shall see.

[jeffrey]

Corrections: I will list them here as I find them.
1) CB has 1/4 inch seam.

[Greger]

Some American systems have 1/4 inch seams, except hems. On the hems (sleeves and bottom of coat) you add on the cloth (not the pattern) the hem (usually two inches) and seam allowances/inlays as needed for the style/fashion desired. There are a number of ways to do sleeve cuffs. The pattern is made plain which leaves other options available.