Ready to wear laser cut patterns

[Kheenan]

I have a question about how ready to wear garments are prepared. According to the Winifred and Aldrich pattern cutting book final patterns are cut and placed on fabric.

The pieces are then cut and assembled but sewing staff. I kinda get that the people sewing would read the patterns or be trained before learning which seams or sections to sew and how to sew them. but I have a question about darts. How are darts inside garments marked?


How would the people sewing know where to place internal darts on whole pieces of fabric. In the book patterns are cut with holes I can't imagine that the holes are put on the pieces that make the final garments. Are they?

[jeffrey]

Mid range and lower range garment manufacturers will often drill dart points.

[Kheenan]

Thanks for your reply.

Oh wow. I didn't expect that. I'm cutting my patterns using a laser right now (directly into fabric) and it seemed deleterious to the end product to put holes for darts even if they would be concealed.

What do High end manufacturers do then? if low end ones just drill holes..

[Schneiderfrei]

He he, high end manufacturers hire people who know what they are doing.

[posaune]

High end producers use the same fabrics in Korea, India or China as the low ends - I think no difference!
My master used to push the machine sewing needle through the fabric instead of doing a big punch hole. Or the old fashion way - used tailor tacks. More time consuming.
lg
posaune

[Kheenan]

Oh I had to look up tailor tracks but it makes sense. Thank you. Current mark the fabric directly lightly. I'll try following up with tailor tracks to see if that helps with visibility. Thanks a lot.

[Schneiderfrei]

Tailor tacks might also be listed under the term 'marking stitches'.

G

[Der Zuschneider]

I use hand marking stitches for darts.

[jeffrey]

Sadly even high end manufacturers will drill about .7 to 1cm below the dart poin but keep in mind, the drill used is quite small/thin.
When I was making womenswear in NYC the factory I worked with would mark each dart point with powdered chalk as I was not making thousands of garments.
Once you enter numbers like tha,t drilling is the way it goes unless you have your own factory.

[spookietoo]

Interesting discussion, even for those of us with no need to ever do this.

Schneiderfrei- I choked on my coffee when I read your first comment. Naughty boy!

[Schneiderfrei]

Well Spookytoo, You know, I can certainly be cheeky.