Help needed

[Der Zuschneider]

I use bias sleeve lining stripe. Stretching it a bit, so it still has a small stretching reserve. You need that reserve for the end ironing. I also experienced with glue tape, it never really worked because there was no stretching reserve for the end ironing. The whole edge was completely nailed together, which was no good.

[TTailor]

Quick question if I may:

Had to look up "India Tape" having never heard of/seen it before. I've only ever used cotton twill tape or selvedges.

Would India tape have less bulk for lighter weight fabrics even after pre-shrinking? Any other upside?

I've never used bias tape on a front edge. Seems a bit counter intuitive regarding stability.

Inquiring minds.....and all that....

Twill tape is thicker and too bulky to put in an edge. If I didn't have tape, I would probably use a lining selvedge or a lining cut on bias. Something thin.

India tape is a straight woven flat cotton tape, quite thin, and  it comes in a couple of different widths.
Also called tailor's tape. I think it is also used in bookbinding and upholstery.

[Philipdep]

Thank you all so much for the replies! I haven't had any formal training; really just reading books, this forum, and Rory Duffy's YouTube series, so I appreciate and welcome any comments. The Lining Company sells 7/8" bias lining that I have seen other tailors use for the edge of their coats and it creates quite a nice look. I'm sure it's much easier to pick stitch the edge too... I find it so unpleasant to have to stitch through the linen edge tape, so I'm exited to try the bias lining. I've been stabilizing my roll line with 1.5" wide ribbons of lining cut on the bias, but I'm not sure if the bias cut is helping or harming, my thought was that stretching it would pull the fronts onto the body, but still allow for a little give--maybe this is wrong though?

Philipdep you did a nice job matching the checks and the lounge coats looks quite good. But may I point out some details to achieve a bit more sophisticated look? When using different silk for the lapel buttonhole be sure to choose a contrasting color or use the same as for the other buttonholes. Otherwise it looks like you ran out of the right silk.
I would choose a darker button. Your´s is quite light and it pops out. The button will get all the attention istead of your tailoring work.
There is also a rule for placing darts and seams in checks: Prominent vertical stripes should be kept intact. You should avoid to make a stripe vanish completely and interrupt it with the vertical front dart. Therefore in your fabric it would be better to place the dart in the middle between two doublestripes instead of onto it. Sometimes the dart must be shifted a bit to achieve this goal. Same principle is valid for the placement of the center back seam.

Thank you! These are the things I really like to know.

[peterle]

Oh, I see. 1,5"  for the roll line tape is quite wide for my taste and tradition. The widest I use is about 1,5cm.
The purpose of this tape is to avoid any stretching in the roll line (wich is on the bias and therefore stretches endlessly). Usually the tape is also cut a tad shorter than the roll line measurement so it also pulls the roll line together. This creates a kind of dart wich helps to create and concentrate the volume for the chest. Thus it also helps to reduce a gaping roll line. I´m not sure a bias cut tape works for this purpose.
Probably a stretched roll line causes the strange wobbling area above the buttonhole I wonder about.

[spookietoo]

Twill tape is thicker and too bulky to put in an edge. If I didn't have tape, I would probably use a lining selvedge or a lining cut on bias. Something thin.

India tape is a straight woven flat cotton tape, quite thin, and  it comes in a couple of different widths.
Also called tailor's tape. I think it is also used in bookbinding and upholstery.
[/quote]

Terri:
Thank you!

My initial introduction to tailoring was basically nothing more than the mechanics of it all and twill tape was specified. I completed the course, took my "A", clipped the buttons off (have yet to use them) and tossed the coat. Dreadful, bulky, ill-fitting thing it was.

These tiny nuances learned here and on the old C&T have made a huge difference. I've used selvedges since reading of the practice, thinner, easier to source and basically "free".

Sourcing India Tape online seems a bit difficult at the moment, but the one thing we have plenty of locally is upholstery supply sources. I'll keep a look out.

Thanks again!

[Philipdep]

Oh, I see. 1,5"  for the roll line tape is quite wide for my taste and tradition. The widest I use is about 1,5cm.
The purpose of this tape is to avoid any stretching in the roll line (wich is on the bias and therefore stretches endlessly). Usually the tape is also cut a tad shorter than the roll line measurement so it also pulls the roll line together. This creates a kind of dart wich helps to create and concentrate the volume for the chest. Thus it also helps to reduce a gaping roll line. I´m not sure a bias cut tape works for this purpose.
Probably a stretched roll line causes the strange wobbling area above the buttonhole I wonder about.

Ahh, that must be it then! Although that wobbling at the top button doesn't happen when it's on the wearer (at least to that extent). It makes total sense that the roll line shouldn't stretch and therefore whatever tape is on the roll line should be straight grain. My thinking behind using the bias cut tape for the roll line is that I could stretch it over the roll line and so it would pull the roll line together, but I think the stretch of the bias makes it too flimsy, and I can get better structure from the straight grain lining. I like the 1.5" lining because I can cover the edge of the hair canvas and domette at the roll line and get a nice, smooth transition into the lapel, but it seems like many different tailors have different preferences!

Here's a better picture on the wearer.