Problem figure Sakkoschnitt - Corpulenz / Jacket Draft - Corpulent

[Schneiderfrei]

Rundschau: 6 Aug. 1983

[Schneiderfrei]

Men's Drafting System - MÜLLER & SOHN

Theme: PROBLEM FIGURE

The Jacket for the figure with:

- Very large waist circumference and dropped shoulders

- Belly pushed forward and flat hips

- Postural condition – Hollow Back and Flat seat


With our Photos we show:

- the so-called balance measurements that must be taken
- The appropriate observations of the figure
- the fitting with error detection and suggestions for changes

In this article we are dealing with a large expansive figure, (body height 184 cm).  Such is the first glance.  On second glance, one sees that this figure has its problems and this customer certainly comes under the postural classification of the so-called difficult cases.

1

[posaune]

Schneiderfrei, thank you so much for giving us this article.
I'm so sorry to interrupt you ..... but there is one page missing. The last, where they explain further steps.
I hope you have it

[Schneiderfrei]

Tut mir Leider!

I have found it. I will add it soon!

I originally only saw the tape measure Abbildung but I had an instinct to scan the whole thing.  I got bored with it and only realised how good it could be today, when I posted it. Ha!

I'm certainly looking for a DOB version, but the previous owner was a only interested in HAKA.  Actually most of the magazines I have are full of Frack articles.

[Schneiderfrei]

Here is the translated Article from the Rundschau Magazine, from 6 August 1983.

It offers a great perspective into analyzing several fitting problems in a single individual and a rational way of conducting the alterations in the drafting stage.

I suspect posaune will have a more sophisticated way of getting the balance measures. I hope you could give a critique of the balance measures, especially, posaune.

MEN'S DRAFTING – SYSTEM of MÜLLER & SOHN

Theme: PROBLEM FIGURE

The jacket for the figure with:

- Very large waist circumference and sloping shoulders
- Belly pushed forward and flat hips   
- Posture causing hollow back and flat seat

With our Photos we show:

- The so-called balance measurements that must be taken
- The appropriate observations of the figure
- The fitting with error recognition and suggestions for changes

In this article we are dealing with a large, expansive figure, (body height 184 cm).  Such is the first glance.  On second glance, one sees that this figure has its problems and this customer certainly comes under the postural classification of the so-called difficult cases.
The Photos from 1 to 5:



1 – The shot from the front already shows typical postural characteristics that is even better understood with the next illustration.
2 = Left side view, the pushed forward body is obvious.
3 = The rear clearly shows the rounding in the region of the back; in front the rounding of the belly.
4 – The falling shoulders show a continuous roundness.
5 – This shot is the best picture of the overall posture of the pushed forward belly and the pushed back shoulders.

Jacket: Single Breasted, 2 buttons

Body Measurements:

         ½   ¼   ⅛   1/16
Kh   Body Height   184 cm   92 cm   46 cm   23 cm   11.5 cm
Bu   Chest Circ.   108 cm   54 cm   27 cm   13.5 cm   
Tu
   Waist Circ.   120 cm   60 cm   30 cm      
Hu
   Hip/Seat Circ.   122 cm   61 cm         
Äl   Sleeve Length
   64 cm   (from Cap)      

Auxilliary Measurements:
(measured or calculated)   Calculations:
Rh   Back Height          25 cm   = ⅛ Bu + 1/16 Kh
Rl   Back Length         46 cm   = ¼ Body Height
Ht   Hip Depth             71 cm   = Rh + Rl
Lg   Jacket/total Length    80 cm   = ½ Kh % 12 cm
Hs   Neck Mirror           8.5 cm   = 1/10 1/2 Bu + 3 cm
At   Arm Hole Depth           27 cm   = Back Height + 2 cm
Rb   Back Width           22.3 cm   = 1/10 Bu+ 11,5
Ad   Armhole width/Diam.   18.5 cm   = ⅛ Bu + 5 cm
Bb   Chest Width           25 cm   = 2/10 Bu+3 cm
                 Control      65.8  minus [%] 57 cm

                                       8.8 cm   = Total Measurement
                                     = ½ Bu + 3 cm (Seam Allowance)

                                 = Ease at Chest Height
Ba   Belly Width           30.5 cm   = ¼ Waist Circ. + 0,5 cm

The Back- Side- and Front Parts

Zeichnung 1 A conventional corpulent-jacket was constructed on the basis of the calculated auxiliary measurements, which is subsequently matched to the figure.



Zeichnung 1 The draft is built on a vertical baseline.  The following numbers are arranged according to the measurements:

1-2 ½ Back height = 12,5 cm
1-3 Back Height = 25 cm
1-4 Back Length = 46 cm
1-5 Seat/Hip depth = 71 cm
1-6 Jacket Length = 80 cm
Square out to the left at all points.
5-7 put in 4 cm for the CB centre back
7-2 draw a guideline to obtain point 8.
8-9 1 cm waist suppression
9-7 draw the middle back seam downwards, to obtain point 10.
9-1 draw the middle back seam up, to obtain point 11.
1-12 neck mirror = 8,4 cm
12-13 2 cm, draw the neck hole
11-14 back width = 22,3 cm, square up vertically, to obtain point 15.
15-16 2 cm, draw the shoulder line
16-17 2 cm, establish the shoulder width
13-18 0,5 cm, form the shoulder seam
14-19 ¼ Rh = 6,2 cm, square to the left
7-20 Back Width minus [%] 2 cm = 20,3 cm
20-14 draw a guideline to give point 21.
21-22 1 cm fitting at the waist
14-23 1 cm seam transfer
22-23 draw the side seam up to obtain point 24, measure a seam width right and form the back armhole.
20-22 draw in the seam line and obtain 25.
The lines from the chest, waist and hip are extended to the right, leave a gap of about 25cm from the back and draw in the AV-Line.
26- square vertically to get points 27 and 28.
26-29 armhole depth = 27 cm
26-30 chest width = 25 cm, 31 is at the half point
31-32 place 0.5 cm to the right
27-33 Belly width = 30.5, 34 is at the half point.
34-32 draw a vertical line and angle it over point 29 angle out to get point 35.
35-36 neck mirror = 8.4 cm
36-37 neck mirror + 2 cm = 10.4 cm, draw the neck hole.
37, 30, 33 draw in the centre front CF/Vm
33- draw a vertical square line down to the full length
35, 29, 26 draw the new Av-Line, on the square, to get point 38. [See diagram]
38-39 3.5 – 4 cm, draw in the shoulder line
35-40 as for 17-18 on the back, minus [%] 0.5 – 1 cm
26-41 ¼ Rh = 6.2 cm, Divide the amount and draw a guideline to point 40.
26-42 Ad armhole width/diameter + 3 cm = 21.5 cm (space needed for the separation and slanting of the side body/part), square down vertically to get point 43.

Seat Width Control/Check: The chest width is set to the left with point 28, and the distance ½ Hu [seat circ.] + 8 – 9 cm is measured over points 43 and 20 to point 7.  The allowance includes the seams of the side dart and front dart as well as ease of 3 – 4 cm.  In our example (Strong Hip circ.) the measurement yields a negative difference, which must be added/expanded at point 43.

43-44 The additional amount of 1,5cm needed from the seat width control. Draw a guideline to 42 to get point 45.
45-46, 42-47 place each 1 cm above.
46-48 1 cm fitting allowance waist suppression, draw the side seam above.
47-49 same distance as 23-24 to the back part.
48- Draw a gently curved seam line regarding the waist nipping, which means 48 to 50 is not straight but slightly curved above point 44.
48-50 same length as the back part 22-25.
33-51 transfer the length 48-50 + 0.5 cm.
27-52 7.2 cm pocket incision.
34-53 8.5 cm, draw the pocket incision.
26-54 measure 3.5 cm to the right.
52-55, 28-56 for each, draw in 1,5 cm, vertical line to give point 57.
54-58, 55-59, 56-60 draw in 2 cm separation each.
57- set about 1 cm to the right and draw the seamline upwards according to the diagram.
58-61 measure 2 cm to the right and draw the side part seam.
34-62 measure 3 cm to the right and square vertically below to give point 63.

The New Centre Front

30-33 draw an additional continuing line to the bottom to give point 64.
65- the half point of 51-64, draw in the new centre front to point 33.
63-66 transfer the length from 51—65, draw a guideline to 62, on the pocket line halve the pinch part and from there set the dart centre line. (see diagram).

63-67 1 cm measure to the right and draw a line to the pocket opening.

33- Mark ca. 1,3 cm edge overlap and shape the jacket edge.  After this, the buttonhole positions are set and the lapel drawn according to measurement and diagram.


The Under-Collar

The jacket pieces include 0,75 cm seam allowances with the exception of the middle back seam, the neck hole, darts as well as the jacket edges.

Zeichnung 2 the under-collar can be matched directly to the lapel during construction.



Zeichnung 2 To begin, the lapel fold is extended above and the length of the back neck-hole length minus [%] 1 cm, is added from the neck point.  Square right from there and draw to the measurement for the collar break line as well as the collar stand.  Both lines are shaped moderately rounded (see Diagram).  For the collar centre back square and on that line measure the actual collar width.  The collar edge is shaped according to the diagram.

Finally, the lengths of the collar and neck-hole are compared and if necessary corrected at the centre back collar.


The Jacket Sleeve

Zeichnung 3 shows a full cut sleeve based on the armhole measurements.



Zeichnung 3 the armhole circumference, minus the seams, is measured along the draft contour (Point 40 to Point 17) and used in the calculation of the sleeve width.  The front (26-40) and back (17-23) armhole heights are measured out and the cap height is calculated.

Armhole Circ.              = 54 cm
Half                            = 27 cm
Seam Allowance           + 1,5 cm
Sleeve Width            = 28.5 cm
Vo. + hi. armhole height = 43 cm
Half                            = 21.5 cm
1/10 1/2 Ah + 1,5-2 cm   minus   % 3,7 cm
Cap Height                  = 17.8 cm

The Draft begins with a vertical base line. 

Measure from:
1-2 Cap Height = 17.8 cm.
1-3 Sleeve length plus one seam allowance = 64.75 cm.
3-4 1,5 cm above, front length.
3-5 1,5 cm below, back length.
2-6 1/2 the distance of 2-4 % [minus] 1,5 cm.
Square to the right at each point respectively.
6-7 set at 2 cm, draw in the centre front.
4-8 Sleeve hem width, plus seam allowance =16 cm.
7-9 transfer same distance as 4-8 + 4,5 cm.
2-10 draw the sleeve notch mark 1/4 Ad minus [%] 2 cm = 2.7 cm.
10-11 Sleeve width =28.5 cm measure up, diagonally to the right, square vertically.
11-14 1/4 Ad + 0,5 cm =5,2 cm.
12- half way from 1—11.
15- 1/3 the distance 12-11.
16- half way from 1-12, draw in the guideline.
13-17 place 1.5 cm to the left.
14- draw a horizontal line to the left, to give point 18.
18-19 move 2 cm for the seam, a horizontal line to the right.
14-20 2 cm, then measure out 0.75 cm to the right (seam allowance) and draw over point 9 to point 8.
19- measure 0,75 cm to the right (seam allowance) and draw the under sleeve seam to the hand line.
19-10 draw the under sleeve hollow.
2-21, 7-22, 4-23, measure each 1 cm to the right and draw the under arm line.
24- move back seam width 0,75 cm.
2-25, 7-26, 4-27 measure 2,5 cm each to the left for the upper sleeve.
25- apply the square and guide it simultaneously over point 24, this gives the upper sleeve seam height.

The sleeve is finished according to the diagram, copy the under sleeve and check the seam transitions.


Determine the Neck Point (Starting Point)

(see Photo on page 329.

Before exploring the front and back lengths the neck point and shoulder point should be marked with a pin on the customer's shirt collar.

To this purpose the calculated amount of Hs (1/10 1/2 Bu + 3 cm) is measured out from the Vertebra (7th Cervical) to the front.  This gives the starting point for the back and front length measurements. (see photo).



The Neck Point is the origin of the so called Balance Measurements.  More on the next page.

The Back Measurement

The metal weight attached to the leaden tape facilitates the correct measurement from the ground to the neck hole or neck point.  When measuring the tape measure must be taut and perpendicular below, so that no measurement deviations occur.

The measured distance can thus be read at the neck point.  In our case the back amount is 167 cm.

The Front Measurement

Here too, the weight of the leaden band must be set on the ground and the tape taut, the curvature of the belly included, up to the neck point at the top.  Read the measurement at the neck point.

The front length for our customer is 169 cm.

The cut pieces of the draft are checked or altered with the balance measures.

Measuring the Balance of the Body



In addition to the customary "Measurements", the determination of the Balance Measurements is very important in the case of figures deviating from the normal.  Eg. When the body is stooped or very upright, as in our example, a figure with the belly strongly pushed forward.  These reasons have prompted us to adopt a closer measure of body balance.  To this purpose the two metre "Plumb-tape measure" is available from Rundschau Publishing.  Like all circumferential measurements the balance measurements should be taken without a jacket and only over a shirt


Balance Control and Alteration for Dropped Shoulders.

Zeichnung 4 The draft is modified to the figure with respect to the sloping shoulders and the body balance.



Zeichnung 4
First the pocket line of the front part is cut, thus the pinch, which gives the necessary belly fullness to the jacket, can be performed.  After pinching the pattern, the pocket incision opens and in its closed state, acts as a dart.

The balance measurements of the customer are taken, as described in more detail in the corresponding photographs.

In our example we determined a front length of 169 cm and a back length of 167 cm.

To facilitate the utilisation of the control measurements on the draft pieces, both amounts are reduced by 100 cm (the dimensions become more manageable).  Thus, one now works with the measurements; 69 cm for the front and 67 cm for the back part.

The back measurement of 67 cm is now measured down from the neck point (finished seam), the position is marked and the difference from the hem edge is determined.  This difference is transferred to the front part, from the bottom up, the control measurement of the front part 69 cm laid here and the tape measure guided up in the direction of the neck point.  The extra length becomes clear.

In our case the amount of difference is 1.5 cm, on this basis the back and front parts are altered by half this amount each.  The body balance is produced according to the figure.  The cutting lines can be obtained from the diagram.

The calibration of the draft to the dropped shoulders can now be done.  The shoulder is set 1 cm more diagonal at the front and the back parts and has proved to be favourable in this figure.  A simultaneous deepening of the arm hole is necessary in order to correctly complete the alteration.  For this purpose the area of the armhole is cut vertically and horizontally and moved down (see Diagram).

For the 'hollow back' the centre back seam is set 0.5 cm at the waist height, the new seam line is drawn and the removed portion is added at the side.

332


Draft Correction with respect to Body Balance

Zeichnung 5 the respective balance of the bodice is made through removal or opening the draft pieces



Zeichnung 5 the back part is cut vertically as well as horizontally in the upper region in and opened to lengthen by the intended amount of (0.75 cm).  The portion that expands out at the shoulder line is removed at the armhole. 

The front part is cut at the chest line and subsequently 0.75 is removed at the centre front.  Balance is correspondingly established in the bodice. 

After the balance correction the dart line or dart portion is cut out and increases by two seams width in the waist region.  (This procedure creates more chest volume.  After the balance alteration (otherwise it would influence the balance) you slash the front dart respectively cut it out: Then you slash the front from the dart tip in a Y form.  When you increase the dart amount in the waist region by 1.5 cm by pivoting you end up with a pattern like in Zeichnung 6.)


Modification of the Front Part for a Large Belly

Zeichnung 6 shows the modification of the front part for a large belly



Zeichnung 6 on the basis of our completed fitting, we have determined that the front edge of the jacket displays a slight protrusion.

Because of this fitting problem slash above the waistline to the side seam, and open up (a wedge) at the centre front of about 1 cm.

The reason this missing length comes with a big body despite the balancing measurements, is because the lead weighted tape measure goes straight down vertically from the neck point and not over the middle of the belly (the greatest curvature).

[SlipInTime]

Thank you for posting this & for providing a translation! I am working on understanding fit at the moment, & have taken notes on the article. Best wishes x