Most professional way to hem jeans?

[Amb0925]

Hi! I have someone who would like jeans hemmed and I have seen the original hem vs regular hem debate on the internet and I have no idea which is the better way. To be honest the "original hem" method feels more like an internet hack, and I'd rather do it like any other pair of pants. However, I know a lot of people wouldn't like a hem that doesn't look distressed like the factory hem. Which way is the correct way? Should I just ask the customer what they want?

[Hendrick]

Use a Union Special  43200G

[Hendrick]

Just joking; I would ask the customer.

If they want some sort of "original" hem and you are in posession of a coverlocker you can imitate the Union Special by using the coverlocker with a single upper thread. Note that the original hems were only 8mm wide...

Cheers, Hendrick

[Amb0925]

Note that the original hems were only 8mm wide...

By "original hem" I am referring to the factory hem from those specific jeans. The technique I find that is the overwhelming majority on the internet is cutting it to length and then sewing the factory hem back onto the bottom of the jeans to create the illusion that they have not been altered. To me this technique feels a bit like cheating but I also think the customer would be unhappy if the hem looked different from the factory-distressed hem they're used to seeing.

[Hendrick]

Personally I don't like that hack; the bottom of the jean has an unnatural look to it afterwards.I don't know if the pair of jeans is worth the effort (or the cost or how distressed they are) but here's a trick.  Hem the jean with a sturdy "pull thread" sewn in and the ends coming out in sufficient length. Leave the ends and pull them to pucker the hem. Dip the bottoms in water and softly retouch them with waterproof sand paper, grain 200 or 300 over the puckers. Then press dry. Now take out the pull tread and softly iron. Should do the job...

Cheers, Hendrick

[Amb0925]

Thanks!

[peterle]

You can also reach the factory effect by pulling the inwards folded part a bit out of place/ shift it a bit. It s also easier to sew, when the SAs don't meet exactly. Wetting and sanding enhances the effect.

[Greger]

And then there is the methods loggers (lumberjacks) use. It might be law in Oregon and Washington States. Take shears and about half the way up the boot height cut. These are Stag. Absolutely no threads at the bottom of pant legs. Lest amount of chance to get snagged when running for ones life when the logs (timber) are being hauled in. When felling trees the same. Hems are way too dangerous. So, the ends of the pant legs become frayed.