Question: Armhole & Sleeve balanced?

Started by posaune, July 04, 2023, 10:57:26 PM

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posaune

Hi,
I am asking in this days myself: Is a there "balance" in armhole with sleeve cap. (My english is not so good so bear with me. I would have difficulties to explain it in german too. It is just a "feeling") I have to sew for  a client, rounded back and bent very forward, with a large bust. So her front armhole ist very short and notabene the back armhole very long.  I have done a balance between Front and back pattern. The difference in height:  front armhole to back armhole is about 6 cm. (And the front length is bigger than normal because of the large bust - which gives a steep angle for front shoulder.) . The  sleeve drafted for this measurements looks peculiar.
But now to the armhole nd sleeve relation:
I rotated some amount from the bust dart into the front armhole to get more length there and less in the CF. I have now a difference about 4 cm. I hope it will work.
Has anyone had this problem? And what worked. Or should I take that peculiar sleeve? Looks like a pancake - hugely
lg
posaune

peterle

I'm not sure about the details: will you close the dart in the armhole, or keep it as loose amount? And the 4 cm difference is between front and back armhole (the former 6cm difference)?

posaune

Hi Peterle, yes I rotate it into the Front armhole to make it longer  and let  the amount there. So the difference ist not so big. More Balanced. With 4 cm difference I get a reasonable sleevecap. But I will get more ,,looseness" at bust. I saw this in an old Book. Ii fear the Book is  from the Time when shoulder pads were Fashion.
Lg Posaune