Advice about tailoring a suede jacket

[Snakebite]

Hello, I got this vintage style suede bomber jacket but it doesn't look so good on me cause of the wide sleeves. I am thinking about taking it to the tailor but would like to hear some opinions here first, whether the thing I imagined is possible or I can get a suggestion how to do it the other way. I am tall and it is hard for me to find a suitable jacket, that is long enough on the back, and this one looks the best I found so far.

Here is how it looks like:



and here's where I was thinking to get it cut:


or to make it a bit curvy:


I have got no knowledge about tailoring so my ideas may be wrong but that's why I'm here, to see hear opinions.
Thanks in advance! 

[Snakebite]

Now I'm thinking this might be better since the current chest width is good.

[Gerry]

I had an identical jacket in my teens. They're casual, hence the ample ease around the chest/body and the roomier sleeve. Live with it? It's the nature of the beast.

If you're after a more fitted sleeve, along the lines of what Lee Marsh does, then perhaps get something made? The sleeve won't have the amount of movement your current jacket has, however, but you can't simply convert what you have to look like one of his creations.

https://www.leemarsh.co.uk/look-book

As for your alterations, how are you going to evaluate fit? The problem with suede is that once it's pricked by a needle, that hole is there for good. Pinning is out of the question.

That aside, IF your sleeve were one piece then perhaps a beginner could taper it relatively easily. Definitely not as much as you've indicated, and the taper would start from the bottom of the armscye, not cut into it. However, it's two piece by the look of things (I'm assuming there's a seam on the underside?). Not as straight forward for someone (like myself) who is relatively inexperienced in alterations (I cut everything from scratch).

The second alteration, first post, would most likely create a barrelling effect round the tummy, incidentally. You could take your jacket to an experienced tailor, who might be able to alter it a little, but you're probably better off getting something bespoke if you want a more fitted garment.

[posaune]

Not a good idea in my eyes. A bomber jacket is roomy. I would say it sits a bit "unclean" at the back neck and at front shoulder. Let it be and enjoy a relatively good fit.
lg
posaune

[Snakebite]

Gerry, thank you for the reply. It is really hard to find these jackets in my country (even online), so I bought this one after checking the dimensions with the seller. Everything sounded perfect, chest and shoulders width, sleeve and back length, but I so didn't think about the sleeve width and that vintage jackets have this kind of shape. If I were shorter then I would surly rock it this way, but as a tall guy I find it really silly looking on me.

Those leemarsh jackets you mentioned are a completely different style and it would be impossible to tailor my jacket that way nor I would want it. They look uncomfortably tight, and I highly dislike those pointy shoulders.

I didn't know needles would be a problem. You wanna say a hole from even a thinnest needle would be visible? What do you think about using office clamps instead of needles?

I am trying to figure out why the two piece sleeve would be hard to taper? Can you please explain? It does have a seam on the underside

posaune, thanks for the reply, and yeah I noticed that too! Do you know what might be the reason for that? Is it because they left too much material and do you think that would be hard to fix?

After all I decided I don't want to cut anything from a torso but would definitely like to narrow the sleeves. The alterations I posted earlier are perhaps too extreme so here's a new suggestion. If I could get an opinion on whether this is ok or if someone can draw me an even better solution I would really appreciate it.

[Gerry]

Snakebite, there's a limit to how much you could taper the sleeves. The armscye will be on the low side and therefore on the larger side; plus the sleeve is 'short cap' (typical of casual wear). That means a inherently roomier sleeve and if you tried to taper it down to nothing, it would look odd. Especially as you've drawn things. You can't do what you've shown, you'll have a ridiculous vertical seam under the armpit. Plus the fit would be restrictive with that amount of material taken in.

If one were to taper the sleeve a little (and only that), you might be able to do the under-seam only if it isn't felled like the top is (note its double line of top-stitching along the seam). IIR, the jacket I had was just stitched normally underneath, but if yours is felled good luck getting a new stitching line to match up with the holes near the body seam, left from the original stitching. At least they wouldn't be too visible. Furthermore, would you know how to fell a seam? Do you have a machine that can cope with leather?

Hopefully you can see that what you've drawn in your last post will create a lumpiness on the outside of the sleeve if only one seam is altered (at least to that extent). Ideally, you'd taper both seams, following the original lines as a guide. Either way, it's not a job for a beginner and the double-felling presents a problem. The ribbed cuffs need removing and will need replacing if you damage them. Good luck getting a colour match with the neck - it would most likely have to be redone too. Do you know how to reattach cuffs? Or the sleeve lining?

If you take it to a professional, be wary of 'tailors' who only specialise in alterations, i.e. ones who don't actually make garments. I've seen 'professionals' post hack videos on youtube. Generally they solve one problem but create one or two new ones as a result of their 'expert' alterations. If you can find a small firm who specialise in making leatherware, they may be able to help you as a favour.

As mentioned earlier, the sleeves are what they are. They're made that way for comfort. Learn to love it. Alternatively, have something made bespoke (it doesn't have to be as sculptured as the Lee Marsh stuff I posted).

[spookietoo]

Snakebite, I think a large part of your issue with the sleeve fullness is that you have grown up during a time of extremely fitted and over-fitted attire and so you understandably have not developed an eye for styling that is roomier.

I bing'd "bomber jacket photos" and saw literally all styling from über fitted to 80's oversized gang banger attire currently available for sale. Roomy sleeves, tight sleeves, it's all there.

The jacket is in beautiful shape and the drape of the body of the jacket hangs nicely on your frame. In the 1950's Cary Grant dominated the silver screen as the most debonair, attractively dressed man alive. The drape of his suit coats and enormously roomy dress shirts helped camouflage  an otherwise rather dowdy physique. "Drape" is not a bad thing.

If you reduce the circumference of the sleeve in order to present a more fitted look, you will also draw attention to the fact that the shoulder seam is extremely dropped, so not only will it be uncomfortable to wear - it should also look awkward. In order to raise the shoulder seam the shallow shoulder cap would have to be re-cut and you simply do not have enough sleeve length to do all of that. In order to do what you desire, you would need to buy a jacket several sizes too large to do so, and on top of that, use extreme caution to conceal any existing needle perforations.

I think you have a nice suede bomber jacket as is.

[Steelmillal]

Ditto the others, plus leather/suede bomber coats are meant as wind proof top layers for cold weather.


The sleeves are prefect to stuff with a chunky sweater and brave the coming freezing temps.


Save you money on the mod and spend on layers instead. The sleeves would never be right, etc...

[Snakebite]

Gerry, it is a single seam on the sleeve bottom. I never intended to do it myself but to take it to a tailor and explain what I want, I just wanted to know first is it even possible. Yeah I watched some tailoring "hacks" on youtube and was not so impressed. Thanks for detailed explanations and for warning me about potential negative consequences I would face if I did it.

spookietoo, you are right, I am 33 and have never worn this type of roomy clothes, so that's why I find it a bit odd looking.

Steelmillal, just last night I tried wearing a spring jacket underneath this one and sleeves looked a lot better, so yeah I can see the connection with a sweater.

To everyone, Thank you for your help, you definitely convinced me not to tailor it. I will wear it as it is and eventually buy another one of different shape/style. I asked here for help because in my town there are just regular tailors who might not take a jacket for a redoing cause its too complex for them, and I have also a furrier to whom I took my other suede jacket few years ago and didn't like the result so much, so this time I wanted to be able to explain what I want based on your answers. Last night I tried putting clips on the back side of the sleeve to see how it would look like if they were narrower and it looked bad and uncomfortable when moving hands in different directions. So yeah I decided to keep it this way, and I think I'm starting to like it

[Gerry]

Gerry, it is a single seam on the sleeve bottom.

I was pretty sure that was the case. It's rare to have two felled seams because it's tricky to sew, but you sometimes see it done (similar technique to a bluff pocket).

I had a couple of suede bomber jackets in the 80s. The first was exactly like yours. It was my favourite jacket for years. The replacement was more 50s style and had really baggy sleeves. It looked great, though. They're damn cool, set a trend!