Back at creating a shirt pattern for stocky build.

[Adriel]

Good to be back, missed being here and tailoring. Between the person who thought my friend, the one who gave me a nice vintage sewing machine, one lesson, and lots of encouragement and advice over about a year and a half, turned very nasty plus loosing my Dad was difficult (was only 72) sent me into a severe depression; blessed to have a cousin notice and refer a medication. Anyway, enough of that.

So got a shirt from one of those MTM places, the first fitting was good, still needed a little work. Then COVID shut them down and after they opened, received the second, which was a mess. For a while refused to do anything about the fit and said were nice enough to do a second (despite their website saying will adjust fit). No problem, own a seam ripper, so reverse engineered the first, then added the needed ease. During this, someone offered to help though Facebook, going well, then tonight in the middle of working on the armscye refused to answer any more questions until had a form of myself. 


My question is, what is the range of ease from the bottom of the arm to the underarm-side seam ease? I think would prefer somewhere between a full and a slim cut, not sails under my arms, yet enough ease I am not having fabric cut into my pecs and scapulas.


Here is the first toile, right side was subtracting 1cm around, except the bottom, left is no change except 1,5cm reduction in shoulder width.








TIA

[Schneiderfrei]

Welcome back Adriel,

What I would like to see is an image of the entire shirt from the front, back and both sides, with both arms down and arms up.

Even better would be to mark out the centrefront and back as well as the chest and waist lines.

It's too difficult to see what's going on in these closeups. although at first glance it looks as though you have a lot of ease in there already.  I am not good at the exact, industry amounts of ease. 

Here are the Rundschau equivalents, but I bet each manufacturer has their own definition.

Total extra width for a wide fit shirt in the year 2000 was 10.5 cm.

Total extra width for a normal fit shirt in the year 2000 was 7.5 cm.

Total extra width for a slim fit shirt in the year 2000 was 5.5 cm.

There are separate measurements for the back height, but they would be very difficult to figure out in the case of a shirt copy.

Graham

[Adriel]

Welcome back Adriel,

What I would like to see is an image of the entire shirt from the front, back and both sides, with both arms down and arms up.

Even better would be to mark out the centrefront and back as well as the chest and waist lines.

It's too difficult to see what's going on in these closeups. although at first glance it looks as though you have a lot of ease in there already.  I am not good at the exact, industry amounts of ease. 

Here are the Rundschau equivalents, but I bet each manufacturer has their own definition.

Total extra width for a wide fit shirt in the year 2000 was 10.5 cm.

Total extra width for a normal fit shirt in the year 2000 was 7.5 cm.

Total extra width for a slim fit shirt in the year 2000 was 5.5 cm.

There are separate measurements for the back height, but they would be very difficult to figure out in the case of a shirt copy.

Graham

Graham, good seeing you and thank you.


What happened to Cutter and Tailor? Anyone save the drafts there?


Sorry not clear, what do you call the underarm ease? Do I need to draw a picture? Can you see in today's picture the large distance between the self and the arm?


The right side is the one that has been modified, not the left, so didn't include. CF is the crease (accidentally cut backwards...) and since reverse engineered, not sure where the chest and waist lines be for certain.













By the way, 4cm of ease in the body of the shirt (was thinking should be less than the average 5cm of a coat). Maybe ease it out a little?

[Adriel]

Did some thinking and derived the green line.



Then because I'm too frugal and lack confidence, made up a patch (knowing wouldn't drape the same, just checking the ease).