Tie Interlining

[Petruchio]

I'm contemplating making some ties from left over woolen and linen cloth. I was wondering if anybody knows what interlining options there are and where to source them. Since the cloth is already more structured than silk I guess a very light interlining might work best. I dissected some ties and think many of them use some kind of woolen horse hair of some kind? Might this be or is it something similar but different. Also if anybody know a source for high quality silk in Europe, that would be highly recommended as well
Thanks,
Thomas

[Gerry]

I've never made a tie, so I look forward to the feedback you get from the more experienced members here.

This video mentions wool and cotton interlining, plus a separate interface:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9y-w5zvlWUU

Whereas this gentleman doesn't use anything (though he mentions that most use wool):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4o-bfMQB9ec

[spookietoo]

I've never made a tie either, but I've disassembled about 3 dozen to use the silk for Hong Kong finishes on seam allowances. I saved the interlining in the beginning for some odd reason and then wondered if it wouldn't work nicely for the sleeve header in a jacket. Only problem was, one tie is only large enough for one sleeve header. What were the chances of interlining matching from different ties sourced from thrift stores?

Turns out, chances are excellent for finding matching interlining. It seems - unless I'm overlooking something - there are only two tie interlining manufacturers in the world.

I'll be interested in finding out what others know.

-Tina

[Schneiderfrei]

Spookietoo, What a great way to get silk lining.

[Gerry]

I was checking through a folder of youtube vids I'd downloaded on ties. Many 7 fold makers use little or no interfacing. The multitude of folds is enough to provide structure.

Simpler ties use wool and cotton. You're probably aware of this, but just in case:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmdoeIV_wRU

I scanned the comments section but saw no details as to what the 'woolen' interface actually is. Looks a little like boiled wool?

[Gerry]

Similar to Tina, upcycling is the obvious solution! 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MzmlRMURSew

[Gerry]

I was flicking through a couture book and it mentions "wool felt" being used as a typical interlining for all sorts of applications. At least one person on youtube is making silk ties using it.

[Schneiderfrei]

That would make a deeper spongier tie probably.

[Gerry]

That would make a deeper spongier tie probably.

Possibly, but when I was googling around I saw many sites offering it as thin as 1mm. The cotton probably mitigates any sponginess; and I'm guessing that the wool is there for softness, the cotton for structure?

[Schneiderfrei]

Yes sounds ok.

[Hendrick]

"Cretonne" these days is mostly used for loosely woven and fluffy cottons, but there was also wool cretonne in the past; a felted  open weave light wool. It was sometimes used as interlining by dressmakers for pocket flaps and the like. When used in a necktie the edges of it will keep their "roundness" for a "richer" look... I sometimes use a heavier, unbleached, version for sleeve heads, cut ot the bias.


Cheers, Hendrick

[Petruchio]

I was talking to some companies that specialize in tie interlinings and they all offer mostly 100% wool interlinings in different weights as their highest quality product. Most of them offer the interlinings already cut to your specified length or width. Some tie makers I dissected use a thin layer of cotton on top of the wool, but I fail to see the necessity for it. Also I made some ties using the methods in the videos in this thread, but on most of the high quality ties I dissected the way the tip is worked is quite different. I might post some pictures of how I do it, if anyone is interested.

[Schneiderfrei]

Yes Petrucio, interested in tie dissections.

[Gerry]

"Anaesthetic, scalpel ... interlining" (interested too!). 

[Hendrick]

Of course curious about your progress, pictures are welcome, thank you...

As for the thin layer of cotton covering the wool interlining, I suspect it has something to do with with the risk of of wool hairs poking trough the silk after use. A lightweight (120's wool tropical) jacket I have the sleeve head interlining is covered with a very thin cotton battist that is cut to the bias to prevent this from occuring...