Side seam and sleeve seam intersection

Started by Futura, June 04, 2021, 03:52:59 AM

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Futura

I've finally turned my attention to the drafting and fitting of sleeves. (I'm very pleased to say I did get a pair of pants to fit well enough to wear out in public!)

What is the correct relation of the sleeve seam to the side seam? In "Dress Pattern Desiging" by Natalie Bray, the sleeve seam is forward of the bodice side seam. On ready-to-wear I have only ever seen these seams intersecting together.

"To continue matching the two curves below B it is more convenient to reverse the sleeve (Fig. 2). With the sleeve now wrong side up and the two points B matched continue bringing up sleeve to armhole until the Underarm of bodice is reached. This usually leaves a little of the sleeve to go over to the front of the bodice, with the result that the sleeve seam comes to the front of the bodice seam. This is an advantage but is not essential in every case: the sleeve seam may match that of the bodice. WIth a few exceptions, the seam of the sleeve should not be allowed to come to the back of the bodice seam, as the result is usually a very uncomfortable fit, especially in tight sleeves."

I realize the book's focus is on dress pattern designing rather than tailoring. I have also seen this sleeve/side seam relationship in another simpler drafting book.

Just curious to hear anyone's thoughts on this!

Futura


posaune

I think it depends how the draft is done. In my system the dividing of the armhole is not 50:50 as in Bray. It is 2/3 in the back and 1/3 in front. Mobility: you do not much with your arms in the back. The motion is mostly into front. The sleeve of Naghalie takes care of this. In tailoring you have a 2 piece sleeve wihch does exactly the same.
But par example: with my weired posture I have to rotate the sleeve to the front like this. It is 1.5 cm. Then the wrinkles disappear.
lg
posaune

TTailor

I agree, it is related to how the sleeve is drafted.
It is specifically for set in sleeves, so for shirts which are sewn in flat the sleeve and body seams need to line up.