Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Hi! I have someone who would like jeans hemmed and I have seen the original hem vs regular hem debate on the internet and I have no idea which is the better way. To be honest the "original hem" method feels more like an internet hack, and I'd rather do it like any other pair of pants. However, I know a lot of people wouldn't like a hem that doesn't look distressed like the factory hem. Which way is the correct way? Should I just ask the customer what they want?

Bifurcator - have you tried Roberto Cabrera's method from his book?  He shows a simple step by step procedure which has always worked well for me.

Are you running the zipper further down into the "J" than really necessary?  If you keep it straighter it might be easier to overlap.

The key to Cabrera's method is basting.  Mark your overlap, baste the left side onto it and let the zipper find its place.

Hope this is helpful.

Your fellow amateur,
Jim

Thanks Terri!

I'm interested in ways to remove the back dart, but it also occurs to me that it's going to be very difficult to get a back with only a center seam to fit nicely over prominent blades.  So, I had another thought:

What if I cut a separate side piece, like this...



And then straighten the shoulder seam, like this...



And now I can split the yoke without changing the length of the scye or the neckhole - like this.



All the easing would be in the shoulder seam and the new curved seam - which are conveniently cut on the bias.

Is this a viable option?

Looks like you are on the right track.
You just need to make sure the ease in the back shoulder can be eased in so that has a lot to do with the fabric you use.
The neck line witl need to be drawn in with a tape. The back armhole- you can try to draw it in but that area is more on the straight grain, so again, fabric dictates. Otherwise just let the armhole be slightly bigger and look at whether you can just tweak the sleeve a bit instead.

Welcome JRuley.

Hello everyone!

'Way back in 2016, several senior members were kind enough to assist me with drafting and fitting a jacket pattern with a yoked back (thread here: https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,361.90.html).  The jacket has served me well over the years, and I've recently made a couple of new ones, with small changes due to increased waist size and a little looser overall fit.

The separate yoke was necessary to accommodate my shoulder blades (thread here: https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,253.0.html).  At the time, posaune explained that with a coat, the shoulder dart could be split up between the armhole, the shoulder, the neckhole and a center back seam.  This would eliminate the yoke piece.  Peterle explained in the jacket thread that the waist darts could also be manipulated away by slashing and pivoting.

So, now I would like to apply this to the jacket.  The photos show my existing jacket back and yoke patterns, with all seam allowances removed. Note that I have a dropped right shoulder, so the scye is lower on that side.  My back also slants a bit to the left so the perpendicular centerlines of the yoke and back don't quite line up.

In the second and third photos, I have attempted to follow posaune's directions by splitting the left half of the yoke into pieces.  Am I on the right track? 

I am not sure how to proceed with the back darts.  Should I transfer those to the armhole, the center back, a combination, or somewhere else?

I hope others with similar fitting issues will find this interesting.  Once again, I really appreciate everyone's time and effort helping me in the past.  You are a wealth of information and very generous with your knowledge.

Best regards,
Jim

Love Harry Enfield     

Speaking of Jason King, erm ...

I never saw him on Australian TV. But Ahh! The tiny shoulders. You would have to do something with that!

 

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on November 15, 2024, 09:31:16 AM

Quote from: Hendrick on November 15, 2024, 04:40:07 AMIn menswear lots of cuts barely have any ease and are worn skintight, in a way that calls for maybe a slightly "feminised" pattern setup?

I have wondered about that. In the old forum, there were several discussions about the resistance to the appearance of darts in men's wear, as opposed to the improvements in cuts that darts would give. I reckon DZ made contibutions to such discussion.

I suppose darts and chest hair go together? Remember Jason King?