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#61
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Easing shoulder seams
Last post by peterle - March 15, 2025, 03:56:13 AMI don't get exactly where the hump in the center of your back is? High at the neck or more at shoulder blade hight?
I would be OK with the resulting neck darts as long as they are on grain. Bias darts are horrible.
But once you've established a dart in you pattern you can manipulate it to wherever it is best. On grain for example or towards the shoulder seam so you can ease it in.
I would be OK with the resulting neck darts as long as they are on grain. Bias darts are horrible.
But once you've established a dart in you pattern you can manipulate it to wherever it is best. On grain for example or towards the shoulder seam so you can ease it in.
#62
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Yet another jacket fitting...
Last post by peterle - March 15, 2025, 03:11:49 AMI think your sleeve cap is not high enough.Thus there are the stressfolds from your shoulders downwards at the top sleeves and the waves in the undersides of the sleeves. Scooping out the lower scye seams of the sleeves should help.
And you should remove the basting of the shoulder pads at the back. It hinders the back to roll over niceley and they won't be fixed there in the finished piece either.
And you should remove the basting of the shoulder pads at the back. It hinders the back to roll over niceley and they won't be fixed there in the finished piece either.
#63
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Confused about adding plea...
Last post by Gerry - March 15, 2025, 02:40:27 AMQuote from: EvanTA on March 15, 2025, 02:07:42 AMI think I'm getting tripped up on the specifics of the instruction for how to spread the pattern. In any approach for adjusting the pattern you want to split down the CF line and spread, then when cutting make sure you lay your pattern on the cloth so the CF line is parallel/along the warp thread. I'm taking it as a given that your CF line = crease line, so correct me if I'm wrong there.
So, why not slash/spread the pattern in the exact way you'll cut? If you plan to go English style pleat, cut along the CF line and spread the inseam-side of the pattern away, vice versa for continental style. This was my thinking that led to my assumption that with this approach of spreading equally you're expected to fold the pants that way as well to create the inverted/box/kissing pleat.
But, maybe I'm over-thinking it. I can slash/spread the pattern per the instructions in the attachment above, then when I lay the pattern on the cloth I'd line up the C line to be my crease line, i.e., make that parallel to warp thread, and when I'm making it up bring the D line over to the C line to create the pleat.
I am about to start on a single-pleat pant, so this is a handy discussion at the moment.
Although the article mentions slashing/cutting along the centre line, it also mentions that the pattern may instead be pivoted; and pivoting is more normal. Why would you make a permanent adjustment to your pattern if it's not necessary? What if you later wish to use the draft for a pair of trousers without a pleat.
Pivoting in one direction would be the better way to go for patterned cloth (or following the first method outlined in the article). For an English pleat, the side that gets pulled over towards the CF is on grain and inline with the crease. IIR that's the method outlined here by the Caffeinated Tailor. Though personally, I'd do all the pivoting/marking on the cloth, rather than creating a new pattern from the old (what if you want deeper/shallower pleats for the next pair ... waste of paper):
With plain cloth, and for a deep pleat in particular, it would make more sense to pivot either side of the crease line. As mentioned, this helps to create some symmetry on both sides of the 'dividing line', with respect to the cloth being off-grain from pivoting, as well as mitigating the amount that the CF is thrown off grain if only pivoting in one direction.
I was flicking through an old edition of the T&C the other week and noticed a pair of pleated trousers where the vertical stripes were totally off. So at least one tailor in the past didn't give a damn about such things!
#64
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Confused about adding plea...
Last post by EvanTA - March 15, 2025, 02:07:42 AMI think I'm getting tripped up on the specifics of the instruction for how to spread the pattern. In any approach for adjusting the pattern you want to split down the CF line and spread, then when cutting make sure you lay your pattern on the cloth so the CF line is parallel/along the warp thread. I'm taking it as a given that your CF line = crease line, so correct me if I'm wrong there.
So, why not slash/spread the pattern in the exact way you'll cut? If you plan to go English style pleat, cut along the CF line and spread the inseam-side of the pattern away, vice versa for continental style. This was my thinking that led to my assumption that with this approach of spreading equally you're expected to fold the pants that way as well to create the inverted/box/kissing pleat.
But, maybe I'm over-thinking it. I can slash/spread the pattern per the instructions in the attachment above, then when I lay the pattern on the cloth I'd line up the C line to be my crease line, i.e., make that parallel to warp thread, and when I'm making it up bring the D line over to the C line to create the pleat.
I am about to start on a single-pleat pant, so this is a handy discussion at the moment.
So, why not slash/spread the pattern in the exact way you'll cut? If you plan to go English style pleat, cut along the CF line and spread the inseam-side of the pattern away, vice versa for continental style. This was my thinking that led to my assumption that with this approach of spreading equally you're expected to fold the pants that way as well to create the inverted/box/kissing pleat.
But, maybe I'm over-thinking it. I can slash/spread the pattern per the instructions in the attachment above, then when I lay the pattern on the cloth I'd line up the C line to be my crease line, i.e., make that parallel to warp thread, and when I'm making it up bring the D line over to the C line to create the pleat.
I am about to start on a single-pleat pant, so this is a handy discussion at the moment.
#65
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Easing shoulder seams
Last post by Hendrick - March 15, 2025, 01:14:23 AMQuote from: Gerry on March 14, 2025, 11:58:44 PMI can't offer any detailed advice, but personally I don't have a problem with neck darts. It seems that it's only tailors who do (the average person won't notice them unless they're pointed out). Even then, periodically the Tailor and Cutter would try to persuade their brethren to give them a try; so those at the top of the profession clearly didn't see any shame in including them.
I know, only my little red control light starts blinking when both lengths of the darts are different to compensate for a pronounced shoulder blade etc... It takes an "iron magnate"like GGreger to figure that out, much more execute it...
Cheers, Hendrick
#66
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting trouser muslin
Last post by Hendrick - March 15, 2025, 01:06:58 AMQuote from: DrLang on March 14, 2025, 10:07:32 PMQuote from: Hendrick on March 14, 2025, 06:56:42 PMNo body is exactly symmetrical and will try to compensate during growth. There is a chance that your hipbone is silghtly tilted; one knee looks slightly higher than the other. Personally in this case I would stretch out the left sideseam between hip and knee on the ironing board and do the same with the seat, but only the curved part of course. If you want to correct it in the pattern you will end up with left and right pattern parts with a different tilt...
Cheers, Hendrick
Yes, but don't exagerate, if necessary do it in steps...
Interesting, I didn't even notice the height difference.
If I am understanding correctly, you suggest stretching in these locations? I like the idea of being able to fix this without a separate left leg pattern.
#67
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Easing shoulder seams
Last post by Gerry - March 14, 2025, 11:58:44 PMI can't offer any detailed advice, but personally I don't have a problem with neck darts. It seems that it's only tailors who do (the average person won't notice them unless they're pointed out). Even then, periodically the Tailor and Cutter would try to persuade their brethren to give them a try; so those at the top of the profession clearly didn't see any shame in including them.
#68
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Fitting trouser muslin
Last post by DrLang - March 14, 2025, 10:07:32 PMQuote from: Hendrick on March 14, 2025, 06:56:42 PMNo body is exactly symmetrical and will try to compensate during growth. There is a chance that your hipbone is silghtly tilted; one knee looks slightly higher than the other. Personally in this case I would stretch out the left sideseam between hip and knee on the ironing board and do the same with the seat, but only the curved part of course. If you want to correct it in the pattern you will end up with left and right pattern parts with a different tilt...
Cheers, Hendrick
Interesting, I didn't even notice the height difference.
If I am understanding correctly, you suggest stretching in these locations? I like the idea of being able to fix this without a separate left leg pattern.
#69
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Yet another jacket fitting...
Last post by Dunc - March 14, 2025, 09:57:29 PMYeah, I do have a slightly low right shoulder, and it does curve forward a bit as well. I did attempt to to take some account of this when cutting, but maybe didn't do a very good job of it - or it might have been lost in the subsequent balance alterations.
#70
General Discussion / Re: Catherine Hill Bay
Last post by Schneiderfrei - March 14, 2025, 09:30:40 PMOutta my league. 