Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: posaune on November 05, 2024, 11:56:52 PMHi Gerry
that is the construtionline for the breast pocket.
the draft of Sven Jungclaus is near the Rundschau construction. Both give a nice "skirt" and a "hugging" back. It is easy to alter for different figure types.
 The first draft looks like an english draft to me. I think the slanted dart at the side can act maybe a bit difficult - but I do not know.
But I am not a coat maker and sew mainly for ladies (or my husband ).
I own some books of Jungclaus, because he shows detailed in pictures how to sew men's clothes.
lg
posaune

There is a technique to prevent slanted darts and seams from going crooked, even on light materials. Here the seam value of the dart is covered inside with a bias cut organdi...

Cheers, Hendrick

The slanted back panel is the result of an incorporated wedge at the shoulder Blade level and gives enough length over the shoulder blades.
In older Rundschau drafts the back seam line at hip Level is moved just 2cm(instead of 4cm) from the vertical center line and the finished Back pattern was slashed an pivoted at the blade level.  They incorporated that step to the drafting process.

Hello Posaune, already a good thing that you are wearing them! I never tried fixating a crotch seam on jersey pants bescause technically you would the have to do the same for the sideseam and that would leave endless variables as you know better than I. I once tricked (at least with knitted trousers) by guiding a silicone elastic band ( like  used in swimwear) in coverlocked seams and ir presented not to bad at the time. Int the end compensating in the pattern is always better.

Thanks for your comment,

Cheers, Hendrick

Thank you for the feedback.

I also checked again in the Jungclaus book; I am attaching the image. Additionally, in one of my Rundschau drafts, it also mentions that a perpendicular should be drawn to the hemline.

The following note was added to it:
,,Dart



on waistline from chest-center-line: mark to the left 2 cm
at hem-line square up through previous point
halve this dart-line between chest-line and hem as shown
on dart-line from chest-line: mark down 4 cm"

Thank you posaune, that's what I thought. In which case, the dart is actually perpendicular to the chest line.

Any slight angling of the back is to compensate for the back suppression? And the angling at the front to compensate for shortness in the front that might otherwise occur. Personally, I just allow inlay at the hem and sort it out in the fitting. 

it went. I could have shortened the upper part of the trouser a bit more. I think the weight of the fabric was a factor I neglected. The trouser stretched at crotch length while wearing a bit. To sew a stabalizing band with crotch seam may have been an idea - but what about side seam length?
lg
posaune

Hi Gerry
that is the construtionline for the breast pocket.
the draft of Sven Jungclaus is near the Rundschau construction. Both give a nice "skirt" and a "hugging" back. It is easy to alter for different figure types.
 The first draft looks like an english draft to me. I think the slanted dart at the side can act maybe a bit difficult - but I do not know.
But I am not a coat maker and sew mainly for ladies (or my husband ).
I own some books of Jungclaus, because he shows detailed in pictures how to sew men's clothes.
lg
posaune

BTW is that slight diagonal at the chest just a construction line for the pocket?(is it the actual chest line?).

I'm guessing that the second draft compensates for the distortions caused by suppression and the darts. When the jacket is made up, everything will be on grain.

Perhaps it's more fitted, which would result in more distortions. The inclusion of a side pannel would suggest this.

Best to wait for a coat maker to answer, though (I merely dabble).