Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Grandpa had a wooden sleeve roll. A press mitt. His tailors ham was shapeable. It wasn't stuffed with cedar sawdust or jammed full of wool. There are different opinions about pressing. For him the cloth comes with the weave pressed "set" flat. When leaves as a finished coat nowhere is the set flat. Every curve is to enhance the person wearing the coat. Cotton shirts, being washed so often, is an excellent item to learn shaping curves that are comfortable to wear and enhance the person looks who will wear it.

Some cloths, when layered, the underside shrinks the most. This knowledge is useful for creating curves. The inside cloth of the curves needs to be smaller when finished. If pressing both sides press the inside first then from the outside.

Quote from: jruley on May 24, 2025, 09:34:26 PM

Quote from: Gerry on May 24, 2025, 05:34:23 PMThe base of the collar has a curved 'lip' to it, so they must have had a press to shape and compress the whole collar.
If anyone knows how to do this without a mould/press, I'm all ears.

This is just a guess, but could you turn the collar up, then press from the back side over a ham?

It's a thought Jim, but I think even a ham will be too flat. The lip is right at the edge of the collar and it's quite pronounced.

I'm pretty sure that large shirt-manufacturers have specialist presses to do this, but that video I posted pretty much shows how to do it with a domestic iron. I always wondered what the slot at the front was for. 

Quote from: Gerry on May 24, 2025, 05:34:23 PMThe base of the collar has a curved 'lip' to it, so they must have had a press to shape and compress the whole collar.
If anyone knows how to do this without a mould/press, I'm all ears.

This is just a guess, but could you turn the collar up, then press from the back side over a ham?

Well I never!

A lot of 1920s repro shirts with round collars also have the same shaping:

revivalvintage.co.uk/products/byram-round-collar-shirt-flax-stripe

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1339045848/mens-edwardian-high-penny-collar-and-tab

https://vintagedancer.com/roaring-1920s-mens-shirts/

Some sort of press is being used?

Quote from: Hendrick on May 24, 2025, 08:52:10 AMI have picked apart some old dress shrts in the past. The nicer numbers had a coarse but fluffy floating interlining, so anything but glazed!

I've also found that in American shirts. The collars and cuffs tended to be softer than those in the UK, which could be very rigid.

Nowadays in this country, school uniforms can be purchased from supermarkets or any number of outlets. When I was a kid, however, specialist suppliers had a monopoly on their sale. The collars of the shirts they sold were traditionally made and can only have had canvas in them; the sort that is glazed, because the shirting slid over the interfacing with no resistance whatsoever. Needless to say I was clueless about the correct way to iron them (I ironed all the family's shirts on Sundays to give my mother a break) so all the corners were wrinkled. The interfacing felt like stiff cardboard. Horrible stuff that made the skin of the neck sore. Nevertheless, that's what I associate with dress shirts (they're 'character building')! 

I have a vintage dress-shirt from the early-to-mid 60s: a round, tab-collar example, the sort worn by the Rolling Stones in the very early days. It has a really stiff collar (and I mean stiff!). No way am I taking it apart because it's NOS [EDIT: New Old Stock - it's not an obvious acronym apparently] and too nice to destroy. The interfacing is thick- probably buckram - despite the shirting being on the fine side, but there's no give to the cloth. It feels at one with the collar. Unlikely to have been fused, because that wasn't the norm then, but I'm wondering if some sort of glue wasn't used. Or simply that it was heavily starched and the starch adhered the cloth to the interfacing. The base of the collar has a curved 'lip' to it, so they must have had a press to shape and compress the whole collar. If anyone knows how to do this without a mould/press, I'm all ears. [EDIT: This is a photo taken by the seller that I saved (not a great quality pic):

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 01, 2025, 10:32:35 AMI would like to request that, if possible, could you share some of the trouser drafts. Please 

Here's what I saved in my old drive. Sorry late reply, uni life got me busy

Backup just in case PostIMG gets a stroke

Quote from: EvanTA on May 24, 2025, 06:08:40 AM

Quote from: Greger on May 24, 2025, 03:42:58 AMFuse destroys the purpose of the weave. Weave in cloth has purpose and you can take advantage of it. Find the best bias if that helps.

I thought about that, and what I imagined doing was only fusing it in certain parts so it would stick enough to simplify assembly, basting it in effect, while still allowing me to stretch/ease as needed to get the curved collar shape I ultimately want. It's an experiment, so maybe it won't work. I only bought a small amount to try this with, we'll see.

Iron the parts together with some spray starch... I will give hold enough for assembling and will go as you manipulate the piece...

Cheers, Hendrick

I have picked apart some old dress shrts in the past. The nicer numbers had a coarse but fluffy floating interlining, so anything but glazed! It had a sort of dusting cloth fluffyness and softness. The flannel sort of surface slightly sticks to the outer fabric, a bit like domette and wadding do. French sometimes call "non noble" square weaves "cretonne"; it is made with cotton waste and sometimes brushed. It also bulks the seams. Almost all the "gabbies", typical 50's gabardine sportshirts (brands like Mcgregor, Towncraft, Sears and the like) but also dress shirts had this kind of interlining. Many of these shirts and overshirts were in heavy rayons, called "fibranne" in france. It was also used (bias cut) inside waistband facings and linings in dress trousers.

Cheers, Hendrick

Quote from: Greger on May 24, 2025, 03:42:58 AMFuse destroys the purpose of the weave. Weave in cloth has purpose and you can take advantage of it. Find the best bias if that helps.

I thought about that, and what I imagined doing was only fusing it in certain parts so it would stick enough to simplify assembly, basting it in effect, while still allowing me to stretch/ease as needed to get the curved collar shape I ultimately want. It's an experiment, so maybe it won't work. I only bought a small amount to try this with, we'll see.