Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Hofenbitzer has a very adaptive view of waistlines. He is drafting for females, but its completely likely men have similar variations.

Nice setup DZ 

Hendrick,
Some patterns the waistline moves up as it moves back. Need to be aware of that, too.
What's your opinion about the question you asked?

I bought the head in Germany and set it up on an industrial table.

Thank you!

Has anyone worked with JP thorton's sectional system or the internation system?

Does the shoulder measure system provide anything of value and if you've tried it can you please share your input and result ?

Drawing it like that is one thing. Because getting dimensions can have an odd method of achievement. The warp threads would be aligned different. I would use the waist line to figure plumb and level. So the back piece would be tilted at the angle for level and plume when chalking on the cloth. Wouldn't want a V in the back. The hip shape might be off on the side panel.

Quote from: Greger on November 11, 2024, 02:23:42 PMIt's nicely done, Hendrick.

About the warp. When it is vertical where needed it is strong and the cloth hangs better. Off bias cloth can be fitted but after awhile the garment starts hanging crooked. There is an overcoat that the back is set crooked. Don't remember why. Someone with a large seat maybe bias would be better. And maybe better for the shoulder blades.

True, almost any garment will start collapsing and draping downwards where the weft is not horizontal. Although charming for a silk satin shiftdress, not so for a structured overcoat! I have never been able to really distill a fixed rule for grainlines in womens' though. Sometimes the design (stripes, checks) is also at play. Take a women's swing coat; sometimes the centerback is almost straight grain and the sides neer full bias, other times it is straight grain near or at the middle of the half panel... I remember that Balenciaga coats with the "bombé" effect (the rounded backs) were straight grain from the back armpoint, exactly where he wanted it to bulge. Now back to the drafts above (and the tailoring matters I want to learn more about) Greger, would you consider cutting a checked fabric in the second draft?

Cheers, Hendrick 

How is the rest of the jacket? I am most curious to see the balance of of it. Personally, from what I can see, I would  cut a rice paper pattern from the back part and fold it from where the center of the roll is to the back shoulder point and fold away the value of the roll at the center back to zero at the outer shoulder point. Then correct the center back. Because the high shoulder point (where it meets the collar) is obviously too high also.

Cheers, Hendrick

Did you ever found an answer? I too am interested in this fix