Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: Hendrick on March 17, 2025, 08:17:38 AMO, and I forgot to mention about the fly facing. When you use interfacing for that, do stay away from the seams, because it will fixate the seam and your front crotch will not bend form properly.

Thank you, that's a good tip for me to keep in mind. I tried just using a very light weight linen interlining in this latest pair but I found it very hard to control compared to fusible interfacing. I think that I might just go back to a fusible, but that will be something to try.

We went from 40C yesterday to 20C today, still no rain.

We've had typical May temperatures here in western Ohio for the last week, with afternoon highs in the 70's (Fahrenheit).  Felt good after a cold winter but I wonder what summer will be like...

Wow !!
Well last night was the Hottest night in Sydney, since 1847 !!!

It was STILL over 26°C at Midnight !!!   

Quote from: DrLang on March 17, 2025, 12:27:57 AM

Quote from: Hendrick on March 15, 2025, 10:35:56 AMNote that, as mentioned before, the hip circumference of your trouser is quite minimal in relation to the volume of the trouser as mentioned by Posaune, but adding hipwidth will only make effect the lack of crotch diameter greater...

I am reading this and having a bit of a moment of realization. Would it be helpful to extend the rear fork a bit? I do have some inlay available to me. I'm looking forward to getting home and having some time to experiment a bit here.

It won't hurt, but you would probably have to drop the point of your back fork a little further below the crotch line as well. I may also lessen the diagonal tension below our seat...

Cheers, Hendrick.

O, and I forgot to mention about the fly facing. When you use interfacing for that, do stay away from the seams, because it will fixate the seam and your front crotch will not bend form properly.

Quote from: Hendrick on March 15, 2025, 10:35:56 AMNote that, as mentioned before, the hip circumference of your trouser is quite minimal in relation to the volume of the trouser as mentioned by Posaune, but adding hipwidth will only make effect the lack of crotch diameter greater...

I am reading this and having a bit of a moment of realization. Would it be helpful to extend the rear fork a bit? I do have some inlay available to me. I'm looking forward to getting home and having some time to experiment a bit here.

Quote from: Dunc on March 16, 2025, 05:38:34 AMHi Peter

I have inlay all around the top of the sleeves, so I can change the cap height using that if that would work better? Or I can scoop out the bottom as you suggest... How much do you think it needs?

I'm not sure I see the stress folds you're referring to though. For example, on the left sleeve, do you mean the slight fold running down from just in front of the top pitch mark towards the elbow?

In the industry we call this effect "cording" in a sleeve... In a toile, I will cut the sleeve horizontally about 5 to 7 cm down from the sleeve head. Then cut vertically from that line up and pin and sew a scrap of fabric under that to correct. take out the sleeve and press flat to re-trace the pattern.

Cheers, Hendrick

With stress fold I mean you can see that the whole sleeve hangs just at the front shoulder bone. Thus you can see a taught strip from this point to the hem. Not really a fold, yes.
To determin the right amount, Just open the upper 2/3rds of the armhole seam. You will see how much you have to lower the fabric to make the ripples dissapear.
When you use your top inlays, the sleeves will get longer. As you like it

Hi Peter

I have inlay all around the top of the sleeves, so I can change the cap height using that if that would work better? Or I can scoop out the bottom as you suggest... How much do you think it needs?

I'm not sure I see the stress folds you're referring to though. For example, on the left sleeve, do you mean the slight fold running down from just in front of the top pitch mark towards the elbow?

Not to play Captain Obvious, but a picture is worth a thousand words...