Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Quote from: Steelmillal on May 26, 2025, 06:42:18 AMHere's the direct link for what was presented.
https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/uniforms/tailor-cutter-magazines-1939-1943-collection-384130/
I've some more Ike Jacket stuff that I found when I did the kilt posting a while back. Just need to find the file.

Thanks, interesting...

Here's the direct link for what was presented.
https://www.warrelics.eu/forum/uniforms/tailor-cutter-magazines-1939-1943-collection-384130/
I've some more Ike Jacket stuff that I found when I did the kilt posting a while back. Just need to find the file.

Yours is good enough to go on with. I don't see any indecipherables.

G

Quote from: LeiaOrgana2187 on May 24, 2025, 02:23:36 PM

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 01, 2025, 10:32:35 AMI would like to request that, if possible, could you share some of the trouser drafts. Please 

Here's what I saved in my old drive. Sorry late reply, uni life got me busy

Backup just in case PostIMG gets a stroke

Maybe Partizanos might have a higher quality copy of the trousers pattern in the book. On top of possible construction guides like the Battledress itself.

Quote from: LeiaOrgana2187 on May 24, 2025, 02:23:36 PMHere's what I saved in my old drive. Sorry late reply, uni life got me busy

Backup just in case PostIMG gets a stroke

Thank you so much LeiaOrgana2187!

Yes Hendrick,

Quote from: Hendrick on May 25, 2025, 07:33:31 AMI've seen a photo of marshall Montgomery in one of these...

And it takes me right back to "The Rat Patrol" 1960 something. The 'English' soldier was was almost certainly wearing army surplus anyway.

I'm definitely going to play with this.

G

Quote from: Greger on May 25, 2025, 04:56:58 AM

Quote from: EvanTA on May 24, 2025, 06:08:40 AM

Quote from: Greger on May 24, 2025, 03:42:58 AMFuse destroys the purpose of the weave. Weave in cloth has purpose and you can take advantage of it. Find the best bias if that helps.

I thought about that, and what I imagined doing was only fusing it in certain parts so it would stick enough to simplify assembly, basting it in effect, while still allowing me to stretch/ease as needed to get the curved collar shape I ultimately want. It's an experiment, so maybe it won't work. I only bought a small amount to try this with, we'll see.

As time with the skills that come with it try eyeballing and depend less and less on gimmicks. Gimmicks help us to create nice things but as skills develop let artistry take over.

Totally - I'm trying things, some may work some won't, that's fine, in the meantime I've committed more time and I'm learning.

Quote from: Hendrick on May 25, 2025, 07:31:10 AMSpecialised formpressing systems by Veith but also Pony of Italy (as well as asian knock off's I guess) are widely used for collars and cuffs. Many manufacturers often create their own custom cushions for these as forms vary...

Thank you for confirming that Hendrick. I've watched videos on youtube showing shirt production in huge, modern factories and the degree of automation and specialised equipment is staggering. Likewise the results: it's difficult to compete with the precision and finish of a shirt that's almost totally machine made! Thankfully, fit and style are something we still have some control over.

Quote from: LeiaOrgana2187 on May 24, 2025, 02:23:36 PM

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 01, 2025, 10:32:35 AMI would like to request that, if possible, could you share some of the trouser drafts. Please 

Here's what I saved in my old drive. Sorry late reply, uni life got me busy

Backup just in case PostIMG gets a stroke

I've seen a photo of marshall Montgomery in one of these...

Quote from: Gerry on May 24, 2025, 09:41:08 PM

Quote from: jruley on May 24, 2025, 09:34:26 PM

Quote from: Gerry on May 24, 2025, 05:34:23 PMThe base of the collar has a curved 'lip' to it, so they must have had a press to shape and compress the whole collar.
If anyone knows how to do this without a mould/press, I'm all ears.

This is just a guess, but could you turn the collar up, then press from the back side over a ham?

It's a thought Jim, but I think even a ham will be too flat. The lip is right at the edge of the collar and it's quite pronounced.

I'm pretty sure that large shirt-manufacturers have specialist presses to do this, but that video I posted pretty much shows how to do it with a domestic iron. I always wondered what the slot at the front was for. 

Specialised formpressing systems by Veith but also Pony of Italy (as well as asian knock off's I guess) are widely used for collars and cuffs. Many manufacturers often create their own custom cushions for these as forms vary...

Cheers, Hendrick

Quote from: EvanTA on May 24, 2025, 06:08:40 AM

Quote from: Greger on May 24, 2025, 03:42:58 AMFuse destroys the purpose of the weave. Weave in cloth has purpose and you can take advantage of it. Find the best bias if that helps.

I thought about that, and what I imagined doing was only fusing it in certain parts so it would stick enough to simplify assembly, basting it in effect, while still allowing me to stretch/ease as needed to get the curved collar shape I ultimately want. It's an experiment, so maybe it won't work. I only bought a small amount to try this with, we'll see.

As time with the skills that come with it try eyeballing and depend less and less on gimmicks. Gimmicks help us to create nice things but as skills develop let artistry take over.