Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Coffee pot wasn't working? 

Quote from: jruley on March 20, 2025, 01:32:37 PMSurely you mean 0.5cm? 

BTW I'm not Greger, nor do I play him on TV.

So it was 5am. You are right on both counts.

 

If you download Modern Tailor vol 1, a tailor and cutter book from the 40s and 50s, towards the end it has some fitting advice. For coats diagram 26 is worth looking at for the back.

Because you don't know how much to change added Inlays gives extra cloth for fitting adjustments. There is a bit about adding inlays in this book, too, several pages up.
The vest fitting part some of this applies to coats.
Lots to ponder.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 20, 2025, 10:08:37 AM0.5mm is a good start.

Surely you mean 0.5cm? 

BTW I'm not Greger, nor do I play him on TV.

Quote from: jruley on March 20, 2025, 03:29:37 AMDon't forget to keep track of all changes on your paper pattern.

Great reminder Greger.

What I couldnt find, yet above is the section from Lady's Tailoring, that remarks on how surprising it is, that only a very little forward push is necessary to meet the needs of even a considerable hollow back. 0.5mm is a good start.

As others have said, it's best to make one change at a time.  So I would recommend correcting for the dropped shoulder and pinning a couple of ready made shoulder pads in place.  Then take a new set of pictures as Schneiderfrei suggested.  We can see then just how swaybacked you are and if a new muslin is necessary.

Don't forget to keep track of all changes on your paper pattern.

I would request that your photographs be: Front, Back , Right side, Left side.

Sway back in German is Hohlkreutz. It's best tackled in the draft stage, Shifting the back waist point, to the left by 0.5 to 1.0cm.

Since this changes the draft radically, it's a difficult correction on the muslin.


See:  https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,548.msg4300.html#msg4300  Down the Bottom.

"The Alteration for a belly pushed forward
(Hollow Back) and seat drawn in 3 cm

This alteration is extremely common in men's tailoring.  The measurements may be completely normal and yet the jacket must be altered if this posture is present.  For the sake of clarity, we have implied the normal cut in light lines and the alterations in lines of extra thickness.



Diagram 43

The back draft is marked out.  Then the back pattern is held firmly at the shoulder point and rotated forward 1 ½ cm at the seat line – half of the amount of the drawn in seat.  The back is marked out such that the neck ring and shoulder remain in their normal positions.  The back pattern also pushes forward at the waist.  The center front waist point and the waist dart move forward by this amount.  Thus, the front part has become 1 cm too wide in the waistline.  This 1 cm is removed from the side seam from the waist-line downwards.  The side dart should lie as far forward as possible at the waistline.  This makes the waist look good.  Therefore, it is put forward by 1 cm.  Marking out the front edge and the transfer of the shoulder is described in the preceding diagrams. We request you read them there.




https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,504.msg4025.


"Since, in this jacket draft, one can readily remove any amount at t1 and g1 below the back width line Rb, for the sake of simplicity, for this normal posture, we did not move the centre back inwards at the seat height and we hollowed the centre back line only 0.5 cm at the waist from T1-T."

Looks like you fall into the category of sway back. Don't remember much of that anymore.

I don't see the gapping at the back of your neck as seen in your initial photos, so increasing the length has obviously helped. I'm guessing that the misaligned balance marks seen in profile are due to the back being shifted up (they're old marks?).

If you follow the centre-back seam all the way up you'll see it being pulled over to the right as we approach the neck. Likewise the neck seen from the front. That pull could be due to tension under the arm; which would make sense as your shoulder is dropped on that side, as Jim mentioned. Everything is dropping slightly on the right and needs picking up (with a corresponding adjustment to the armsyce). We need photos for both sides of your profile, incidentally, for comparison.

It's a little on the baggy side. I take it there's no side panel, but did you include a dart under the arm? Difficult to tell. Suppression can be tinkered with later, however, sorting out the RHS would be the place to start IMO. More experienced eyes will no doubt offer other suggestions.

Two things I can see because I've struggled with them myself:

1) it looks like you have a dropped right shoulder.  There are a number of simple corrections for that you could apply.

2) if you are planning on shoulder pads you should have them pinned in place when fitting.

I'll defer to the professional members for other things.

Take heart, it's looking a lot better than some of mine did at this stage!