Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Following all 4 sides of the muslin, open and closed, with the dropped shoulder adjustment:
1,5cm taken in at the shoulder seam, armscye lowered accordingly

Thanks Peter. I think trying to freehand a new line with the sleeve still half sewn in was maybe a bit beyond my current skill level...

Looks definitely better now but I think it could be a tad more. There are yet some ripples at the back of the sleeve.
Probably you should add a bit more height at the front of the crown, in the area in front of the top sleeve mark. (There is enough crown height vertically where the ripples are)
This will make the front crown line a bit steeper and the highest point of the crown should shift a bit forward. When you look on the profile pic you can see that the highest peak of the crown should lie a bit forward from the shoulder seam.

Right, I've altered just the left sleeve to give about 10mm more at the top of the cap. I'd definitely want to take the sleeves out entirely and re-mark the desired line before doing it again properly, but hopefully this is enough to see if I've got the magnitude of the adjustment about right. I think it looks a lot better, but then I'm not really sure what I'm looking for here:

Quote from: jruley on March 22, 2025, 11:03:50 PMI think the dropped shoulder is a more obvious issue than the sway back.  So why not correct it now, which can be done without cutting a new muslin?  You should be able to use the same correction in the new pattern.

I will definitely look at that as well, thank you jruley

I think the dropped shoulder is a more obvious issue than the sway back.  So why not correct it now, which can be done without cutting a new muslin?  You should be able to use the same correction in the new pattern.

Thank you all very much for your help so far, again I'm impressed by your expertise!

As I said in my initial post the goal ist to develop a basic pattern for very casual unconstructed/unlined garments, so no padding, canvasing, etc.
I do want to get the balance right, but I can compromise on clean lines/shape for the sake of practicality and mobility.

Quote from: Gerry on March 19, 2025, 05:42:33 AMIt's a little on the baggy side. I take it there's no side panel, but did you include a dart under the arm? Difficult to tell. Suppression can be tinkered with later, however, sorting out the RHS would be the place to start IMO. More experienced eyes will no doubt offer other suggestions.

Indeed there is no separate side panel, but I did include a dart underarm. I took that decision to simplify the pattern as much as possible (fewer seams on the interior to deal with)

Quote from: Gerry on March 19, 2025, 05:42:33 AMI'm guessing that the misaligned balance marks seen in profile are due to the back being shifted up (they're old marks?).

correct.

Quote from: Schneiderfrei on March 19, 2025, 01:52:28 PMSway back in German is Hohlkreutz. It's best tackled in the draft stage, Shifting the back waist point, to the left by 0.5 to 1.0cm. Since this changes the draft radically, it's a difficult correction on the muslin.

I will try this in another muslin and post photos of all sides.

Again, thank you all for the input, I will get back as soon as I worked through your suggestions.

Quote from: jruley on March 21, 2025, 10:49:47 PM

Quote from: Greger on March 21, 2025, 11:41:09 AMCoffee pot wasn't working? 

It was upside down...

Balance problem?

Quote from: Greger on March 21, 2025, 11:41:09 AMCoffee pot wasn't working? 

It was upside down...

Quote from: Greger on March 21, 2025, 11:41:09 AMCoffee pot wasn't working?