Recent posts

#11
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Manipulation of Jacket Bac...
Last post by TTailor - November 19, 2024, 11:00:14 PM
QuoteAll the easing would be in the shoulder seam and the new curved seam - which are conveniently cut on the bias.

Is this a viable option?
Yes, that's also an option.
The other option is a dart in the back shoulder. I think there was discussion on the old forum about that. Something that used to be done, but fell out of favour. I believe there were pictures from a German text.
#12
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Most professional way to h...
Last post by peterle - November 19, 2024, 08:28:22 PM
You can also reach the factory effect by pulling the inwards folded part a bit out of place/ shift it a bit. It s also easier to sew, when the SAs don't meet exactly. Wetting and sanding enhances the effect.
#13
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Manipulation of Jacket Bac...
Last post by peterle - November 19, 2024, 08:03:20 PM
This is a Viennese Seam wich is normaly used for tight pieces like uniforms and tailcoats. It enables a very tight fit. Usually it incorporates the waist and shoulder dart.
You could also use a Princess Seam wich ends in the shoulder seam instead of the armhole to incorporated the darts.
#14
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Most professional way to h...
Last post by Amb0925 - November 19, 2024, 11:32:58 AM
Thanks!
#15
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Most professional way to h...
Last post by Hendrick - November 19, 2024, 10:45:14 AM
Personally I don't like that hack; the bottom of the jean has an unnatural look to it afterwards.I don't know if the pair of jeans is worth the effort (or the cost or how distressed they are) but here's a trick.  Hem the jean with a sturdy "pull thread" sewn in and the ends coming out in sufficient length. Leave the ends and pull them to pucker the hem. Dip the bottoms in water and softly retouch them with waterproof sand paper, grain 200 or 300 over the puckers. Then press dry. Now take out the pull tread and softly iron. Should do the job...

Cheers, Hendrick
#16
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Most professional way to h...
Last post by Amb0925 - November 19, 2024, 10:20:56 AM
Quote from: Hendrick on November 19, 2024, 09:28:08 AMNote that the original hems were only 8mm wide...
By "original hem" I am referring to the factory hem from those specific jeans. The technique I find that is the overwhelming majority on the internet is cutting it to length and then sewing the factory hem back onto the bottom of the jeans to create the illusion that they have not been altered. To me this technique feels a bit like cheating but I also think the customer would be unhappy if the hem looked different from the factory-distressed hem they're used to seeing.
#17
Drafting, Fitting and Construction / Re: Zipper Fly Construction- U...
Last post by Hendrick - November 19, 2024, 09:46:42 AM
Quote from: jruley on November 19, 2024, 01:46:38 AMBifurcator - have you tried Roberto Cabrera's method from his book?  He shows a simple step by step procedure which has always worked well for me.

Are you running the zipper further down into the "J" than really necessary?  If you keep it straighter it might be easier to overlap.

The key to Cabrera's method is basting.  Mark your overlap, baste the left side onto it and let the zipper find its place.

I have never sewn a zipper into a curve (except in a pencil skirt). I suppose I'm to lazy for that! But I have made "deep" fly constructions with buttons. I especially like the WWII baggy chino's worn in the pacific. I believe these were called "south sea bubbles" or someting like that by GI's. The fly's were 2 inches wide on these and the pockets were deep enough to scratch your knees without taking your hands out!


Cheerio, Hendrick
Hope this is helpful.

Your fellow amateur,
Jim
#18
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Most professional way to h...
Last post by Hendrick - November 19, 2024, 09:28:08 AM
Just joking; I would ask the customer.

If they want some sort of "original" hem and you are in posession of a coverlocker you can imitate the Union Special by using the coverlocker with a single upper thread. Note that the original hems were only 8mm wide...

Cheers, Hendrick
#19
The Apprentice's Forum / Re: Most professional way to h...
Last post by Hendrick - November 19, 2024, 09:22:30 AM
Use a Union Special  43200G
#20
The Apprentice's Forum / Most professional way to hem j...
Last post by Amb0925 - November 19, 2024, 08:34:01 AM
Hi! I have someone who would like jeans hemmed and I have seen the original hem vs regular hem debate on the internet and I have no idea which is the better way. To be honest the "original hem" method feels more like an internet hack, and I'd rather do it like any other pair of pants. However, I know a lot of people wouldn't like a hem that doesn't look distressed like the factory hem. Which way is the correct way? Should I just ask the customer what they want?