QuoteAll the easing would be in the shoulder seam and the new curved seam - which are conveniently cut on the bias.Yes, that's also an option.
Is this a viable option?
Quote from: Hendrick on November 19, 2024, 09:28:08 AMNote that the original hems were only 8mm wide...By "original hem" I am referring to the factory hem from those specific jeans. The technique I find that is the overwhelming majority on the internet is cutting it to length and then sewing the factory hem back onto the bottom of the jeans to create the illusion that they have not been altered. To me this technique feels a bit like cheating but I also think the customer would be unhappy if the hem looked different from the factory-distressed hem they're used to seeing.
Quote from: jruley on November 19, 2024, 01:46:38 AMBifurcator - have you tried Roberto Cabrera's method from his book? He shows a simple step by step procedure which has always worked well for me.
Are you running the zipper further down into the "J" than really necessary? If you keep it straighter it might be easier to overlap.
The key to Cabrera's method is basting. Mark your overlap, baste the left side onto it and let the zipper find its place.
I have never sewn a zipper into a curve (except in a pencil skirt). I suppose I'm to lazy for that! But I have made "deep" fly constructions with buttons. I especially like the WWII baggy chino's worn in the pacific. I believe these were called "south sea bubbles" or someting like that by GI's. The fly's were 2 inches wide on these and the pockets were deep enough to scratch your knees without taking your hands out!
Cheerio, Hendrick
Hope this is helpful.
Your fellow amateur,
Jim