Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

I think that style would flatter a man with a strong chest and broad shoulders.  That doesn't describe me, so I want to build in some shape.  A little waist suppression helps hide my love handles.

OK.  Here are the new back pieces with the Viennese seam configuration.  No seam allowance has been added.  Darts are only for reference, showing the amount to be eased and shrunk.

Back seam length, neck hole and armhole length have not been changed.



Does anyone see a problem?

This sort of thing:

https://communityclothing.co.uk/products/arthur-jacket

https://www.drakes.com/products/navy-melton-wool-donkey-jacket

The fronts and the sleeves are more elegantly done on the Amies coat, but it's basically a donkey jacket minus the PVC shoulder patches. 

If you made the hems straight, rather than the fronts sloping away, it would probably give you the illusion of length that you are after.

Google around for 'Melton chore/donkey jacket' and you'll see plenty of modern interpretations of The look.

I like that look as well.  Maybe a little looser, and just a little longer; and I'll probably go with a zipper just for practicality.  Maybe I can learn how to do a concealed one...

This is the cloth I have, bought many years ago for historical reenactment use.  It's from Hainsworth's "overcoating" line.

If you click on the photo it will expand for a better view. Second from right is a similar type of jacket, but full length. No front darts, so it's not going to be overly fitted. I'm guessing Amies would have called it a ghillie collar.

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-hardy-amies-mens-fashion-1962-mens-fashions-designed-by-hardy-amies-19538701.html

I intend to make this jacket in the new year (I love the look). I even committed to buying some Melton the other week (ouch it was pricey!), so I have to make it now.

Some may recall the jacket which resulted from this thread in 2016:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,361.90.html

Eight years later the jacket is doing fine, but I've put on a little weight and it is uncomfortable to button. I updated the pattern last year for a little more room in the waist and also an overall looser fit (increased width but not length).  I also used a front zipper without removing the button stand, which gave some slack in the chest.  That resulted in a nice corduroy version (not shown) which I've gotten a lot of use out of since.

The latest version (shown here) uses the same pattern, but is made of a heavy woolen overcoating remnant.  I'm looking forward to breaking it in this winter.





I really like this style for spring and fall wear.  With the short tail and the "action back" it's very convenient for driving.  But on really cold days, I think I would like something longer, and maybe with hand warmer pockets.

I have some more overcoating, in a color called "Garter Blue", a little lighter shade than navy.  I'm thinking of making another one, long enough to cover the butt - I already have a knee length coat.

I could probably just extend this pattern and come up with something usable, but I'm interested in other ideas.  Don't think I need the pleated back and belt, and the separate skirt piece under the belt might be troublesome if made longer.

Thinking about trying the "Viennese seam" back style shown here:
https://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php/topic,1557.0.html

I would like the result to be form following, but not skin tight.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Jim

And then there is the methods loggers (lumberjacks) use. It might be law in Oregon and Washington States. Take shears and about half the way up the boot height cut. These are Stag. Absolutely no threads at the bottom of pant legs. Lest amount of chance to get snagged when running for ones life when the logs (timber) are being hauled in. When felling trees the same. Hems are way too dangerous. So, the ends of the pant legs become frayed.

Hi everyone,

I've recently come across NMsize, a new platform where tailors and fashion creators can sell custom-fit clothing. It seems like a great opportunity to reach clients and grow a business, especially since creating a store and listing designs are free.

Have any of you tried it? What do you think about the idea of selling custom-fit clothing online?

For those interested, here's the platform: www.nmsize.com
And here's the link for tailors: www.nmsize.com/creators

Would love to hear your thoughts!

Thank you both.  I hadn't seen the term "Viennese Seam" before; didn't realize it had a name.

Are there ways of manipulating the back dart away without resorting to a new seam?  Might not be appropriate for my prominent blades, but others might find them interesting.