Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => The Apprentice's Forum => Topic started by: Tikiguayo on July 16, 2020, 11:22:05 AM

Title: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: Tikiguayo on July 16, 2020, 11:22:05 AM
Is there a formula or rule of thumb for the placement of the collar notch? I placed a pin 2" from the tip of the lapel for scale.
On my last coat I placed it at and 1 1/2" but the lapels were smaller. As usual, many thanks in advance.

(https://i.postimg.cc/K3TQGk64/0.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K3TQGk64)
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: peterle on July 16, 2020, 08:26:19 PM
The collar and lapel dimensions, layout and design depend mainly from fashion, personal preferences or house style. As you can see in this thread http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=625.msg7077#new (http://movsd.com/BespokeCutter/index.php?topic=625.msg7077#new)  (Pic " Kragenaufstellung") the center front line is a good point for the collar notch. ( -so the collar will meet when the jacket is fully closed).
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: Tikiguayo on July 17, 2020, 03:35:13 PM
Thanks for the info!
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: Thom Bennett on July 17, 2020, 10:34:34 PM
In the UK we tend to half the distance between break and tip then place the notch ⅛" to ΒΌ" towards the break line from this centre point.
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: TTailor on July 18, 2020, 10:20:35 PM
Oh, and don't forget that it is not just "Gentlemen" on this site.
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: hutch-- on July 19, 2020, 02:09:25 AM
 ;D
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: Greger on July 19, 2020, 02:47:30 AM
Another method is at the fitting to decide where to place the edge of the collar. For example, thick necks, thin necks, etc. may look better on that person in different location than ordinary, fashion, etc.
Title: Re: Collar Notch Placement
Post by: Thom Bennett on July 19, 2020, 11:35:04 PM
Agree with Greger, like most things in tailoring the system will get you to a place but until the garment is fitted you never really know how things look, or placed in the correct place for the client.