How does one baste the inseams together for a fitting, if there is a generous inlay given at the back fork?
It seems impossible attempting to line up the front and back inseams, given the drastically different seam allowances. What am I missing...? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
(I hope everyone is doing all right with this awful virus.)
Did you thread mark the sewing line?
I agree with Jeffrey,
A large inlay should only be necessary in a muslin. the muslin should be marked off in thread.
Once the correct fit is found and transfered to a pattern, any inlay should only be enough for ordinary adjustments and be well defined on the cloth.
Example: If you have seam allowances on your pattern, you chalk out your pattern on the cloth. On the front inseam you cut along the chalked line, on the back you leave an inlay beyond the chalked line.
When you tailor tack your cloth, you tailor tack along the chalked line of the back inseam, no need to tailor tack the front inseam as you have cut along the chalked line.
When you sew the seam, you take the cut edge of the front inseam and lay it against the tailor tacks of the back inseam and then stitch using whatever seam allowance you gave in your pattern.
Quote from: TTailor on July 07, 2020, 09:38:23 PM
Example: If you have seam allowances on your pattern, you chalk out your pattern on the cloth. On the front inseam you cut along the chalked line, on the back you leave an inlay beyond the chalked line.
When you tailor tack your cloth, you tailor tack along the chalked line of the back inseam, no need to tailor tack the front inseam as you have cut along the chalked line.
When you sew the seam, you take the cut edge of the front inseam and lay it against the tailor tacks of the back inseam and then stitch using whatever seam allowance you gave in your pattern.
I would do it the same way. It is very handy to draft trousers including seams, the old way.
Quote
I would do it the same way. It is very handy to draft trousers including seams, the old way.
It makes so much more sense, i agree.
If it is a new pattern I would also cut inlay on the topside then trim away after fitting as needed.
And as JCSprowls always used to say, on the other forum, Record all your changes on the pattern!
Many thanks to everyone for the helpful input! Apologies for my delayed answer. Health issues and a lack of internet access at our new home until very recently have gotten in the way.
I will try the suggestions mentioned. I had been chalking out around a net pattern, then painstakingly chalking out the seam allowances and inlay around it. (I think I would prefer it if the draft included seams!)