Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: krudsma on May 29, 2020, 09:52:04 AM

Title: What is causing this shirt sleeve fold?
Post by: krudsma on May 29, 2020, 09:52:04 AM
Hello all,
I've forged ahead on my first draft and for the most part I'm very pleased with how it's looking. That said, there's one issue that's plagued me on every shirt I've owned, and I'm hoping someone can tell me what causes it. There always seems to be a fold of fabric running from my shoulder bone down to around the armpit, as seen in this photo:

(https://i.ibb.co/4PwD7FD/MVIMG-20200528-181502.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BqH7tf7)

Is this a sleeve pitch issue? I have moderately sloped shoulders which my draft accounts for.
Title: Re: What is causing this shirt sleeve fold?
Post by: Schneiderfrei on May 29, 2020, 12:43:12 PM
It looks to me that the sleeve cap is too wide at the top.

G
Title: Re: What is causing this shirt sleeve fold?
Post by: posaune on May 29, 2020, 10:55:13 PM
give  a sideview pic. looks like it must be rotated.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: What is causing this shirt sleeve fold?
Post by: krudsma on May 30, 2020, 01:26:29 AM
Thanks! Here's the side view, although it appears less pronounced here:

(https://i.ibb.co/dpZjVHN/MVIMG-20200528-181511.jpg) (https://ibb.co/gWYmfc0)
Title: Re: What is causing this shirt sleeve fold?
Post by: posaune on May 30, 2020, 08:33:24 PM
It is not easy to see. I think the sleeve's hem touches your back knuckles (Knöchel? Word) so the sleeve pit can be wrong. But the cap height too.
Remove the sleeve. draw a vertical line from shoulder point down to hem, draw a horizontal line  at the side seam Armhole point. Baste it in with the lower part but pin the upper. Make a pic. Decide if you must rotate the sleeve cap (the arm should sit in the center of the sleeve)  and if you must add height to the crown (the horizontal line should be horizontal and not pulled up at center). And as it looks if you have eased the sleeve in - maybe the cap is too wide as well as Schneiderfrei suggested.
lg
posaune