Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Topic started by: jeffrey on May 15, 2020, 06:26:51 AM

Title: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: jeffrey on May 15, 2020, 06:26:51 AM
Does anyone know if seam allowance is included on the neck and armholes in Stanley Hostek's pattern drafts?
Thanks in advance,
Jeffrey
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: Der Zuschneider on May 16, 2020, 08:00:45 AM
You could assume 7mm.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: jeffrey on May 16, 2020, 11:54:47 PM
Thank you sir.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: pfaff260 on May 17, 2020, 03:55:35 PM
Traditionaly there is no seam allowance in the neck. Front or back. As in mid back , seam and mid front. They are in shoulder, armhole and side seams.
Maybe this old rundschau draft could tell you this.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QH0c0C9W/Schermafbeelding-2020-05-17-om-07-54-30.png) (https://postimg.cc/QH0c0C9W)
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: jeffrey on May 18, 2020, 01:16:12 AM
Thank you pfaff260. This is what I suspected but I am not familiar with this system and did not want to take it for granted. I have a suit order and the client suggested I use this system as they have had many suits made from it in the past. I am guessing that I will figure most of it out in the first fitting.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: Der Zuschneider on May 18, 2020, 09:22:13 AM
Neck and center back has no seams.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: pfaff260 on May 18, 2020, 03:26:16 PM
Jeffrey, please tell us how it went. I'm very curious how the Hostek draft works. I have his books on sewing and they are realy good.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: jeffrey on May 20, 2020, 04:59:23 AM
pfaff260,
I will keep you updated.This is a new system for me and hope that I can navigate it easily.
I believe this draft includes 1/4 inch seam allowance everywhere except the neck, front, center back and hems.
I am going give the draft a try this coming weekend so we shall see.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: jeffrey on May 21, 2020, 12:15:00 AM
Corrections: I will list them here as I find them.
1) CB has 1/4 inch seam.
Title: Re: Stanley Hostek Pattern Drafting seam allowance
Post by: Greger on May 22, 2020, 03:03:05 PM
Some American systems have 1/4 inch seams, except hems. On the hems (sleeves and bottom of coat) you add on the cloth (not the pattern) the hem (usually two inches) and seam allowances/inlays as needed for the style/fashion desired. There are a number of ways to do sleeve cuffs. The pattern is made plain which leaves other options available.