I have a question about the "Rueckeneinstellung". When drafting (lady or gent) the construction for the back goes like this (generally): On a plumb line you mark neck point, going down you mark waist point and hip point...etc.
You draft from neck point down to waist but you go at waist point 2 (depends) cm to the left (woman) and from there proceed straight down to the hip. So you have a slanted back center line. The back width and the waist circ originate then from this slanted line - not from the plumb line.
Can someone (with a big bibliotheque of old drafting books or from experience) tell me when this was developed and what was the reason?
I'm fishing here in a very murky water.
Thanks in advance
lg
posaune
Thnak you Schneiderfrei @ b
I don´t remember from wich year I scanned this article but I think it´s from the sixties:
Synopsis: after making a passform study by wrapping paper onto the dressform and flattening the result, the position of the CB in the waist depends on wether it is possible to take some fabric out at the back dart /hip height or not. When a seam is not desired in this place, the dart has to be pinched in the paper pattern and therefore it moves away from the vertical center back for about 2cm.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jw9DR8pM/r-ckenein1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jw9DR8pM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fkzsbjzK/r-ckenein2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkzsbjzK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BjHZFSdc/r-ckenein3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjHZFSdc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/PPKQjH6y/r-ckenein4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PPKQjH6y)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zV0KM1pr/r-ckenein5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zV0KM1pr)
Oh Peterle, feel yourself hugged - even with Corona on the way. Thank you so much. That is so interesting and very thoroughly explained.
Those are golden moments in my life!
lg
posaune
Briljant!
I never dared to ask this....
Then you will probably appreciate also this rare glimpse behind the Rundschau curtain:
This and the last one are both from Oesterreichische Schneiderzeitung No. 5 and 7, 1956
(https://i.postimg.cc/hhg2M5H8/r-ckeneinstellung1-001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhg2M5H8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vDc4RYFG/r-ckeneinstellung2-001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDc4RYFG)
Synopsis: This article is about the waistnipping in the center back of women´s wear. Three different body types are shown in the article and none of them needs more than 0,5-0,75cm waistnipping in the center back. But the different figures need different distances from the vertical line at the hip line(G) wich also influences the distance T Tl. So when drafting the center back it´s wise to draw a straight line from the neck(W) to the desired poin G first and do the waist nipping afterwards at point T from this line. Rundschau will use this method from now on (1956).
That kicks off a different pattern from the start, thanks!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5fwveq5gxf2nd31/rueckeneinstellung%20damen.pdf?dl=0
My obsessive thanks...
Very nice straight copy thank you DZ.