Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: hutch-- on February 28, 2020, 11:28:12 AM

Title: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on February 28, 2020, 11:28:12 AM
Many years ago I helped out a friend who was having language problems with a legal dispute. While it was not a commercial transaction, my friend gave me a leather overcoat that he had bought in Belgrade when he was younger but no longer fitted him. Its one of those that was commonly worn in WW2 by SS officers and while it is perfect to wear in the freezing cold, I used to get heaps of wisecracks for looking like a member of the SS so I retired it to a wardrobe where it sat there for about 30 years.

It was made in Yugoslavia a long time ago, double breasted and with a wide collar and reasonable heavy leather and was still in very good condition apart from being a bit dry and stiff so I spent a half hour or so with some Armour All leather cleaner and it has come back looking like something out of WW2.

I am not sure if there is any advantage dressing like Reinhart Heydrich but it is a magnificent thing to wear when its really cold and the wind cuts through ordinary outer garments. I can still get into it but its a little tight around the middle and I think I can just move the buttons by about 2 CM to get just a little more room.

A bit later I will post a photo as it is a classic garment.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: peterle on February 28, 2020, 08:55:14 PM
And wearing it will be a bit of a workout. Usually these coats weight a ton. (imagin sweaty smiley here)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Steelmillal on February 29, 2020, 01:14:21 AM
I use homemade dubbin on vintage leather and better for conditioning. Essentially its beeswax and animal fats, but coconut oil works, too: 35/65 wax to oils is good ratio. I can imagine in a hard, cold wind with wool base layers, such a coat would indeed be warm v. being a cold poser. I'd choose warm every time. Looking forward to seeing the collar :)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Henry Hall on February 29, 2020, 02:57:18 AM
It sounds like an excellent garment. It seems like we'll never escape being thought of as Herr Flick when wearing a leather trench-coat. My father actually purchased a leather trench only a few years ago. 2nd-hand. When he went to a pub in it (plus wearing a black hat) people said: 'Watch out, the Gestapo are here!'

Is yours black? I think brown would fare better.  ;D
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on February 29, 2020, 10:08:08 AM
I took these this morning, the coat is very heavy and its construction is more like saddlery than garment but it is really well made and it will beat winds that come up from Antarctica. It is still pretty dry but I will keep using the ArmorAll until it becomes a little more pliable. Funny part was years ago at a pub I used to eat at, many of the youngsters wanted to but it so they could look like an SS officer.

(https://i.postimg.cc/64zXWrhS/coat1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/64zXWrhS)

(https://i.postimg.cc/LqZZ0Tkm/coat2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqZZ0Tkm)

(https://i.postimg.cc/RJv6hxk0/coat3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RJv6hxk0)

(https://i.postimg.cc/f3XJvbZL/coat4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3XJvbZL)

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZBxn1DWz/coat5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZBxn1DWz)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Henry Hall on February 29, 2020, 09:08:04 PM
The wire hanger is giving me backache! ;)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 01, 2020, 09:00:24 AM
I agree with Henry Hall, go and get a nice wooden one, from Woolies with the broad shoulder supports, at least. :)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 01, 2020, 01:09:11 PM
It has survived about 30 years on that wire coat hanger so a little longer will do it no harm. I do have a couple of wide shouldered ones I got from the tailor who used to have a shop down the road but I will have to find them. I am mainly spraying more wax based cleaner into it at the moment and it has become a lot more flexible. Its one of those garments that you can hang on a hook on the back of a door without any problems so I am not going to lose any sleep over it.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Henry Hall on March 02, 2020, 05:01:11 AM
Wire hangers were good for getting a TV signal. Or, in the old days, unfastening and poking through a car door window to undo the lock when you left your keys inside. ;D

Another was fastening one into the top of a tube to make a fishing rod rest.

In Kansas nearly two decades ago, I went into a roadside "rest room" (as the Americans call it, but no-one was resting in there) and they had a toilet roll on one hooked into an eye-hook on the wall. I often wonder how they got it on there without cutting the wire, or maybe they did because I never looked. I wish I had because it annoys me. However, I digress....
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 02, 2020, 11:47:49 AM
You may find some humour in this. Years ago when I ran my own business I used to buy engineering supplies from a number of different travellers and one was this nice Jewish lady called Rachel. One of her questions to me seeing that I was over 6 feet tall and basically blonde with blue eyes was where did my family come from and what side were they on during WW2.

I had to explain to her that my father was a member of the AIF (Australian Infantry Forces) who fought in New Guinea and the Solomon Islands against the Japanese.  Its a quirk that the historical Australian "Stringbean" (tall skinny figure) look remarkably similar to what the Nazis were modelling with the Aryan master race.

This is why I have to be careful wearing a double breasted black European leather overcoat with anyone who was from European descendants who were old enough to know about WW2.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 02, 2020, 12:26:30 PM
Sensitivity would be a good thing.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: peterle on March 02, 2020, 08:29:06 PM
You could wear a pair of Klompen with the coat. It would be a nice experiment wich garment triggers more associations.   ;)



Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 03, 2020, 12:33:14 AM
I think you would have to find a pair of jack boots to make the scene, I am not sure if clogs would be the right image.  ;)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: peterle on March 03, 2020, 02:32:06 AM
Meh, too traditional.  ;)
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Henry Hall on March 03, 2020, 05:20:49 AM
With the klompen they can hear you coming.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 05, 2020, 12:07:34 PM
I had a tube of a leather conditioner that I had used on another leather jacket so I got stuck into the overcoat and pumped heaps into it then rubbed it in by hand and it seems to have done wonders.

Having been stored for a very long time it was a bit stiff and felt like what you would imagine a straight jacket was like to wear but after repeated cleaning then conditioning its starting to feel like a wearable garment at last. I am hoping it will stretch around the shoulders a bit now that it has loosened up some.

I have to try and match one of the buttons as it is missing one and slightly move the outer buttons to get just a little more room in it but apart from that it has turned out well.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 05, 2020, 12:28:40 PM
Perhaps a Krampus Mask??
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 07, 2020, 12:56:21 AM
> Perhaps a Krampus Mask??

I have struggled to comprehend this one but to no avail, could you enlighten me here ?
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 07, 2020, 11:39:50 PM
Well, if you google "Krampen" - image, you will see a mask. I thought if you wore such a mask with your coat, it would soften the image of the coat from the nasty SS imagery.

Have a look.

G :)

Chances are I was pulling your leg.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: posaune on March 08, 2020, 02:51:34 AM
Hutch
Krampus is the "partner" of the holy Nikolaus (not the CocaCola Hohoh-man). It is a custom in the alps (5. - 6. December). Very terrifying.
In our region it is Knecht Ruprecht - he is not so bad and ugly as Krampus. He is punishing the bad kids. St. Nikolaus will and can not punish the children because he is a holy man and loves them. Krampus does it instead.  Believe me it is horrible for the children.
lg
posaune
https://www.expedia.de/explore/reiselexikon-krampus
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: Schneiderfrei on March 08, 2020, 02:23:39 PM
Hehe.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 08, 2020, 04:57:09 PM
I looked up a few photos from ww2 and the overcoat is more like Gestapo than SS. Not much of a gain in terms of respectability but at least you are free of all the badges and shiny bits. I did a search on Draža Mihajlović as this overcoat was bought in Belgrade somewhere in the 1960s and found these images at the following URL.

https://kulturasjecanja.org/en/brcko-draza-mihajlovic-monument/

A reasonable match for the one I have.

Now I have a question for posaune, I know the word "landsknecht" as highly skilled mercenaries in the middle ages and among many other tasks, helped defend Vienna against the last Ottoman siege of Vienna. I can get the "lands" part of the word, basically lowland farmers but I don't understand that actual semantics of the word.
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: posaune on March 08, 2020, 11:20:46 PM
I think it has its origin in the Schweiz. Here it was used to differ between the people coming from the mountain or from the lowlands "Lants". (The swiss were thought high in the science and gruelty of war. They had the "Reisläufer". If I remember right from school, they did not make prisoners they butchered all. Very effective! Since today you have the "Schweizer Garde" which is the palace guard of the Papst).
But it is more likely that the name came from the weapon they fight with. They were foot fighting and had a Pike or "Lanze".They were hired warriors payed by the Kaiser (Habsburger) so  servants (Knechte).
hope it answers the question. By the way their clothing was very interesting nand colorfull - nothing so drap as an leather coat.
Those leather coats were mostly worn in the army, after the war and before. They were no inventions of the Nazis.
lg
posaune
Title: Re: Rediscovered an heirloom
Post by: hutch-- on March 09, 2020, 11:03:47 PM
Thanks posaune,

I knew it was a person with a good knowledge of German history that could answer this question. I have seen photos of recreations of the landsknech and they were very well dressed and interestingly enough I remember a woodcut from the 15th century where they looked very different to ordinary soldiers.

Australia in the southern parts can be very cold in the winter, its a quirk that the great southern ocean in winter produces snow at a higher latitude that is normal but it is different to the dry cold of the northern hemisphere, it has higher humidity and can cut through you right down to the core of your bones and this is where the old overcoat beats most thing I wear in the cold. Lucky Sydney does not get all that cold in the winter all that often.

I guess looking like a "Chetnik" is less contentious that looking like the Gestapo.  :)