I've been working on a Dutch brand (Anker) sewing machine that I have been using since my fashion education 30 years ago. Metal frame so pretty sturdy. Recently I decided that it is time for a new one, which is why I am currently lost in the forest of many choices.
So last week when I walked into a sewing machine shop, there was this deal in which offered a Yuki HLZ 57E for 300 euro's. https://www.juki.eu/juki-hzl-57e-naaimachine.html
Since I mainly make made to measure men's shirts I thought this was the right one for my needs. Compared to my older machine however, it feels pretty much like it's a machine for beginners. The case is plastic, the presser foot lifter is plastic, and the machine just overall feels like a toy despite the fact that the brand is highly regarded.
My question is, should I buy a heavier machine which resembles my older (sturdier) one? Or should I keep the Yuki, give it some time, and sell it if it turns out not to be satisfactory? Like I said I mainly make men's shirts so in practice I don't need more extra's than being able to make buttonholes.
Would a heavier machine be worth the (probably much) higher price since it may have many options I don't need? What are my better options for a fairly simple but perfectly stitching (non industrial) home-machine anyway?
(https://i.postimg.cc/z3sbjCvJ/20200220-115029.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/z3sbjCvJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/crW1CX68/20200220-114805.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/crW1CX68)
I don't see any advantage there... Given the choice between those two machines, I'd stick with the old one.
If you really want to upgrade, either buy an entry-level industrial straight-stitch machine (if you have the space), or a "professional" domestic machine like the Janome 1600P or HD9 (both are essentially the same machine as far as I can see, they just changed the name). For buttonholes, buy an "industrial" type buttonholer attachment like the YS-Star ones - you can pick these up easily and cheaply enough on eBay, but be warned that most of the people selling them don't seem to know the difference between low-shank and high-shank.
All you're looking for (in my opinion anyway) is speed, reliability, and a good amount of working space. You don't need anything other than straight stitch. Oh, and a knee lift is an absolute godsend!
I agree with Dunc,
The older machines are usually fitted with cog drives and stitch length is more reliable. In sewing a men's shirt, what more do you want?
G
Yes, the Juki is just a standard domestic sewing machine bearing the Juki name. It looks like all the new Singers and Pfaffs. I say if it is doing what you want it to do, then use it and only stop when you think it isn't meeting those needs. If you think you can sell it and recoup enough money to get something more suitable, then perhaps do that.
What was wrong with the Anker? I made a shirt last summer entirely using an old Vendomatic (jaren '70 V&D huismerk gemaakt door Brother). It's 95% metal and has a fair bit of space under the arm, plus convertible from flat-bed to free-arm via a hinged plate. This is the only 'modern' domestic I now have. I think these are perfectly serviceable for making shirts on a small scale. Not 'ideal', but they function perfectly well.
I see it there is a buttonhole foot on the Juki. How do they turn out? I find some of these automatic buttonholes too large. I still make shirt buttonholes using a Pfaff-190, which I'm used to. Its tiny satin stitch is very neat.
Quote from: Henry Hall on February 21, 2020, 08:26:19 AM
What was wrong with the Anker? I made a shirt last summer entirely using an old Vendomatic (jaren '70 V&D huismerk gemaakt door Brother). *snip* I think these are perfectly serviceable for making shirts on a small scale. Not 'ideal', but they function perfectly well.
I see it there is a buttonhole foot on the Juki. How do they turn out?
In itself there is nothing wrong (niets mis ;)) with the old Anker machine. The dial mechanism with which the stitches are selected is perhaps somewhat worn out, and when making buttonholes you have to select the four phases yourself. Benefits of the Yuki; It has a One-fase buttonhole option, which is handy, but does not always run smoothly(not evenly stitched). And it has an automatic needle threader which is veeery funky :) Still in doubt if the machine wil replace the older one tho. As you say, old machines usually still work fine. Guess I'll have to use it for a while and see how it turns out.
Maybe I should follow Dunc's advice and consider an industrial machine.
Your remark that you sees little benefit compared to my older machine more or less reflects my feeling now that the Yuki is at my home.
An industrial (Husqvarna) machine is already present in my attic btw. (see pic below) The reason I don't use it is that it needs new wiring and on/off switch. Also it makes too much noise where it is now so will think about moving it to my appartment. Not sure if I can torture my neighbours with the noise though, but I know it runs like a maniac.
Choices, choices..
(https://i.postimg.cc/N9KLNJT0/20181026-155945.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9KLNJT0)
Oh, nice machine. It must have a clutch motor on it then. If you just get a servo motor and mount it yourself (it's easy) it'll make next to no noise and be half the weight. The giant Efka clutch motor I took off my Juki industrial probably weighs more than the machine head and table together!
The Husky looks Fab.
I agree with Henry Hall, get an inexpensive servo motor. Much quieter and a LOT lighter to haul around. It is easy to swap motors and it will come wired up properly. Don't go too cheap. Remember though 'industrial' simply means it does one thing really, really fast and well.
I now have a few industrial machines, I imediately fit them with castors/wheels. It makes it a lot easier to fit them into your life.
G
Thought about exchanging the motor before. But the shopkeeper where I went for info advised me to buy an new or used machine cause he thought It wouldn't be worth the money/hassle. For me it would make al lot of difference though if the sound of the motor could be reduced by replacing it. It more or less sounds like a jet-engine now when I switch the machine on/off.
So called them just now and they're telling me 140 euro's is the price for a servo motor. Sound acceptable but..
They say that some parameters of the servo have to be set correct when it gets installed, or else the machine won't run properly? Including motor/installation/setting parameters the price will be around 250 euro's they say. In the Youtube instruction video where uploader shows how to replace motor, they're not talking about setting 'parameters' at all as far as I can see? How's that? Does the servo really has be installed by a expert and be 'set' correctly as they say?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qwi9UZz2VAQ
Current motor
(https://i.postimg.cc/jLbGZGH8/20181026-155636.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLbGZGH8)
Instlling parameters is usually included in the instruction sheet. Some will be relevant and some will not.
Some relate to installing a synchroniser, which will enable the machine to be set to finish in the needle up or needle down position, but my old Pfaff 138 will not accept a synchroniser, so I ignore those controls until I can persuade a friend to machine an adaptor.
The shop will no doubt want to maximise their finacial gain from you but what they offer may not be what you need. I simply have the motor installed and I use it. It's very fast and I have been advised by professional friends to learn to manage the speed, rather than slow it down.
It's good.
G
Yes, I agree that the shop is probably looking to make some extra cash. The synchro I got with a motor was cracked and the shop (all the way in Belgium) stopped responding to emails after admitting all his stock of the motors had damaged synchros. I'll make a trip there one day and throw him in a river. I re-wired another superior synchro (an old Efka) into the plug that fits this motor.
Like Schneiderfrei I also run another older machine with a servo and no synchro. The synchro is handy and everything, but you won't die or suffer a major productivity loss without it. It also has no knee-lift.
Just tell them to supply the motor and you'll install it yourself.
No contest! Put a servo motor on the Husqvarna, oil it, buy a buttonhole attachment, and you're sorted.
Yes yes oil it, a lot. Just get the right oil.
Here is a good resource:
https://naehmaschinentechnik-forum.de/
G
I'm definately temped to get a cheap servo like this one;
https://www.naaimachinesalbano.be/a-50651646/motoren/servo-motor-maxdo-voor-semy-en-industriele-naaimachine/#description
..and start using the Husqvarna. Called a shop where they offer one for 90 euro. Cleaned the machine already a while ago so I know how smooth it runs, despite the old motor.
Getting a bit more familiar with the Juki also now and I must say, it does do nice buttonholes. The Husqvarna only does straight stitch btw(no zigzag), a buttonhole attachment won't solve that I presume.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mnq79q12/20200228-223626.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mnq79q12)
Mad Stitcher, the buttonhole attachment moves the fabric for the zig zag for the buttonhole. You can still buy the older buttonhole attachments for the old straight style Singers and Singer clones. I've got one attachment that doesn't use cams and another that does use the drop in cams. The cams are good for making keyhole buttonholes. They can be a bit fiddly getting them set in just the right place. Singer used to make a zig zag attachment way back but I've not seen or heard of anyone using one nowadays.
Mad Stitcher, DO NOT buy it from Albano. The man is a crook! The servo motor I bought just over a year ago was from there and the synchro was cracked. The b'stard has done absolutely nothing about it despite admitting several of the others in the stock were cracked. I've since come across someone else on another forum who purchased one of the smaller motors from there which was faulty and he got the same treatment.
And yes, I'm still planning to visit his shop and throw him in the nearest river.
Quote from: theresa in tucson on February 29, 2020, 10:54:55 AM
Mad Stitcher, the buttonhole attachment moves the fabric for the zig zag for the buttonhole. You can still buy the older buttonhole attachments for the old straight style Singers and Singer clones.
Yeah, a YS-Star type attachment (easily found on eBay) makes buttonholes on an industrial straight-stitch machine. It comes with a blanking plate to cover the feed dogs, and the movement is entirely controlled by the attachment, which is actuated by the needle bar. Length, width, stitch spacing and cutting width can all be controlled. This video demonstrates: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwNh99l8X50
Apart from the Bernina and Elna class zigzaggers and the Pfaff 130 and 260 class machines, I would go for a straight stitcher. They firm a nicer stitch and have narrower feed dogs; better for fine work. For buttonholes, I use an old Greist buttonholer, the one with the cams, on my black Singers and it works perfectly. It even does eyelet buttonholes. I have a Brother computerised machine that I use for buttonholes only. It is a "fs 40", which sounds like an air to ground radar system but it sews. It is made almost enterelybfrom lunchbox-grade plastic and the sound if it is to make you cringe. I got it dead cheap from a discounter, lees than half the price of that Juki... My take; stick with that Husqvarna and find a creative solution for your buttonholes...
Did the thread involve making shirts? I keep clicking back to find out but the browser is playing up and timing out. >:(
If so then machined buttonholes are okay, because I likely wouldn't bother hand-sewing a load of shirt button-holes (perhaps for something special, but I've never tried it anyway). The satin stitch has to be good though or it just looks terrible and messy. I've seen some of the results of these on You Tube videos and they are often dire.
I've done them on my Pfaff 130 (as mentioned above by Hendrick) and the lines are close together and very neat. These are opened with a sharp chisel, which actually came in the accessories box from 1950 and was unused! In any case using a sharp chisel to open them is best.
With other button holes I'm always going for hand-made. Unless I had a top-of-the-range keyhole buttonholer, like a Reece, there's no way a machine buttonhole can be put an a handmade garment without wrecking the entire aesthetic. And what's the point of going to the trouble of hand-making a garment only to festoon it with blocky machine buttonholes which always look awful when cut?
Agreed, but... For me, shirts are a category of make by themselves... Nothing beats e Reece 101 eyelet buttonholer or even a Durkopp, for that matter. But only for coat, suit and trouser, not for shirts in my opinion...