Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Apprentices => Drafting, Fitting and Construction => Construction Reference => Topic started by: Schneiderfrei on January 09, 2020, 10:19:05 AM

Title: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 09, 2020, 10:19:05 AM
Great selection of techniques and methods.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QORC6wPhkjQ&fbclid=IwAR0V5AuExXXb3QL_UkABLqz2VlQOGAcaJfxa6Sx1iZ15BRd_SzDuc9zidVs
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: pfaff260 on January 10, 2020, 05:55:19 PM
Fascinating, thank you for sharing this.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Henry Hall on January 11, 2020, 05:17:59 AM
She knows what she's doing. The array of machines there is enviable. There are many of the old Singer and Union Special industrials that were made to perform one specific task, like that bar tacker for the back pockets and the machine for attaching the waistband.

She does an unusual thing on the crotch seam, but watch the totally efficient way she makes the pockets and everything in mirrored pairs, as it should be. And those hidden rivets in the back pockets... never seen that before. And the leg seams are a fake jeans seam, rather than lapped.

It's weird seeing things NOT pressed in-between operations!

Interesting video.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: theresa in tucson on January 11, 2020, 08:56:12 AM
I've got this site bookmarked for my next foray into jeans.  As to not pressing, the fabric she is using is not washed or preshrunk so it has plenty of sizing.  Finger pressing and the foot pressure are enough.
I too envy the machines, especially the one with the special folder for the center back crotch seam.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 11, 2020, 12:49:17 PM
I agree about the non pressing.

I have sewn up jeans in heavy denim.

It's very much like cardboard.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: posaune on January 11, 2020, 10:14:07 PM
Yeah and I wondered that her fingers were not blue. Working with demin sometimes let my finger ans nails look very stylish :-)
I think I have noticed an old italian machine - buttonholer. What a machine park.
lg Posaune
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Schneiderfrei on January 12, 2020, 12:52:22 AM
I think she made her own hat.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Henry Hall on January 12, 2020, 01:57:42 AM
Definitely made her own hat, and coat no doubt.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Greger on January 14, 2020, 05:25:57 PM
Finger pressing and just pulling the cloth taut is all that is necessary so often. She does nice work.

The weather here is 16 F / 8.8 C and the north easter is blowing 11 mph / 17 K - right out of the Fraiser Valley of Fraiser River. I should move to Hawaii for the winter where it is warm. My winter clothes are in storage, so I'm cold. One guy around here is wearing shorts.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: mhoyle on May 06, 2020, 04:07:32 AM
Yes, I didn't understand why she wouldn't use a lapped seam on the inside leg. She used it on the seat, with her lapped seam machine...
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Schneiderfrei on May 06, 2020, 10:02:29 AM
mhoyle, it probably doesn't require that much strength or the extra layers of cloth.
Title: Re: Construction of a pair of Jeans - Japanese woman demonstrates
Post by: Hendrick on May 13, 2020, 06:43:54 AM

Hi,

Only Wrangler sews inlegs on jeans with a feller. Japanese love Levis's construction; open outseam, safety inseam with topstitch. Their big inspiration is the Levi "Big E", that they consider the only real jean... They go as far as hemming them with a rare Union Special chainstitch hemmer that actually produces a puckered hem after washing. The sides of the jean are placed at the selvedge of the fabric, hence the center of the leg is not cut to the grain...