Bespoke Cutter And Tailor

Here is the final section discussed under the Slim Jacket that I intend to translate.  The sleeve section states the sleeve draft assumes measurements from Diagram 189 190 on page 36 - 37.  These pages have been kindly provided by Pfaff260. I will not translate them since they are only required to verify the measurements used.

I have also included an image from Bekleidungs Lexikon - Wilfried Schierbaum to illustrate some of the features of a Lapel.







Frequently, one has a proven template available to cut the canvas and under-collar felt for the under-collar: on the other hand, the respective collar shape, length and length of the lapel must be taken into account.


The collar with a Normal Lapel: Abbildung 196:

H1-h1 In the Jacket cutting set-up the lapel fold is squared out forwards by 2 cm and drawn in to the top buttonhole.  The break line is extended straight for the collar set-up.

H1-k    Collar Length (-) = Neck Mirror

Abbildung 197:

k-     Square
k-k1     Collar fold - 2,5 cm
n-n1   From the centre of the neck-hole = 2,5   cm
k1-n1 Draw out the collar fold.

Abbildung 198:

K1-k2   Collar stand= 2,5 cm
k2-n     Draw in the collar edge parallel
k2-       Square for the collar centre

Abbildung 199:

K4-k3 Fall width = ca. 4 cm
k4-     Front collar width and length – according to style
k3-k4  Outer collar edge

The Collar for a Double Breasted Jacket - Abbildung 200

H1-    Extend the break line
H1-k  Collar Length = Neck Mirror
k-      Square
k-k1   Collar fold = 2,5 cm
k1-k2 Collar stand= 2,5 cm
k2-     Square for the Centre Back
kl-k3  Rear Collar width = 4 cm
k4-     Front collar width
k3-k4 Outer Collar edge

Collar for a Long Lapel - Abbildung 201

H1-    Extend the break line
H1-k   Collar Length = Neck Mirror
k-       Square
k-k1    Collar Fold = 2 cm; to n1 draw curve in gradually
k1-k2  Collar stand= 2,5 cm to n draw curve in gradually
k2-     Square here for Centre Back
k1-k3  Back Collar width = 4 cm
k4-      Front Collar width and length according to style
k3-k4   Outer Collar edge

The Short Collar for a (Slipon) Casual Coat - Abbildung 202

H1-     Collar Fold is Straight
H1-k   Collar length = Neck Mirror
k-       Draw a Square
k-k1   Collar Fold = 3-3,5 cm
k1-k2  Stand-up Collar = 3 cm
k2-     Square for the Centre Back
k1-k3  Fall Width = 4-5 cm
k4-     Front Collar width and length according to style
k3-k4 Outer Collar edge


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