The size table has changed significantly from the old edition and there is something I don't understand. In the new table, Rub+ArD+BrB does not equal half BrU as in the old table. Why is that? For example size 38: 16.5+8.1+18.2 = 42.8 (BrU is 88). It seems like the ArD size is too small. Can someone explain?
also, the table in the book is different from the one in the downloadeble files on the website, so I guess there's a mistake with the table of the book? If so, what do think about this new distribution? Is it better than muller and sohns? Size 38- 17.7+8.1+18.2
new tables:
(https://i.postimg.cc/8jdtcpb6/58441319-2019381281493705-3583189531702067200-o.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jdtcpb6)
old edition table:
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWBP3J8H/58057810-2019391584826008-8624760355794452480-o.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZWBP3J8H)
Hi Dana,
it is a bit complicated. And I can only tell you what I found.
Mr. Hofenbitzer did a second editon of his 2. Book "Maßschnitte und Paßform". He developed a new drafting system to make Mueller easier. The main issue is the using of the shoulder angle (measured). Then he altered drafting of the backwidth and Ad (which is not logic in my opinion) For this he must alter the table - make the Rb wider and Ad smaller - BB stays as is.
In the fall the 2. edition of his 1. Book "Grundschnitte und Modellentwicklung" came. In here he did take the changing at the Rb und Ad back. But the table was mixed up. If you look at p. 180 you see that in size 38 he uses the right measurement not those of the table. You can use the old table with the new book which is quite enlarged.
Nevertheless both books are wonderful in my opinion and worth every penny.
lg
posaune
1, book is about basic patterns (industrial and custom) and model developments
2. book about custom pattern and how to get the right fit
Thank you for your explanation!
I have contacted Guido hofenbitzer and he told me to use the old edition's table, and that the forms on the publisher's website will be updated soon. He also said that an English translation is coming in 1-2 years.
What a wonderful question you raised Dana89.
I have this book too, I have been making my own private translations.
Its great to hear some background on this book from you and posaune.
G
Hofenbitzer's books are amazing. I just got band 2 and there are some very creative figure adjustments I have never seen before.
an english edition is much needed (for both books), becasue this is probably the best current basic pattern making book for its price range. I own the 3 basic cuts books from mueller and sohn (english translaions), but I dont find them as clear and easy to work with as with Hofenbitzer (even though I cant read german).
In Israel, Mueller and sohn is the only pattern system being used and studied for decaded now. but the schools all use old materilas and size tables and figure adjustments are rarely disccussed. The books from Hofenbitzer can be a great help becasue they contain a lot of updated knowlage at a very fair price.
I thank posaune for referring to Hofenbitzer, Whatever she says is gold, :) so I bought it a year ago. Even though it is only for women's drafting, it has many lessons in conceiving how to shape a three dimensional form.
Dana,
I agree with you these books are outstanding.
If you have band 2 (2. edition) and you do the standard size custom draft you have to take the table from this book.
(In the second edition of the band 2 the draft has not the extra cm at the back width in center armhole height. So the back width and the armhole diameter are altered in the table. The result stays the same.
I ever asked myself, why Mueller added the 1 cm to the draft, Pfaff 260 send me the "missing link", thanks again Pfaff)
Beware of the shoulder angle. In the 2. edition of the first band he stated the angle of the front shoulder is measured shoulder angle + 2° and the back shoulder is -2° . That is better and more logic than in band 2(2. edition) were it is 20° front and back in my opinion.
lg
posaune
Schneiderfrei, better ask my husband about the value of my conversation ;)
Posaune, you may consider it an affidavit.
Quote from: posaune on April 28, 2019, 02:22:01 AM
t, Pfaff 260 send me the "missing link", thanks again Pfaff)
And thanks to der Zuschneider who told us where to look for them.
Late (as usual)
I got the new editions too and flipping trough them made me realise that they actually inspire to start projects as opposed to most "Fachliteratur"...
And thanks Pfaff and Posaune; I truely did not have the time to dig that deep.
Cheers, Hendrick
ps I actually printed out your remarks and put themunder the book covers